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to my parents

I’ve dedicated every book I’ve written (and just about every success I’ve had) to my parents. Not because they did the work for me but because they taught me to be myself. My parents gave me what most parents never give their children: free rein to go and do the things I wanted. Without their unbelievable, unending support, I simply wouldn’t be writing this book. I see friends who’ve been forced into doing things they don’t like because of their parents, and I thank my lucky stars I’ve had people who’ve genuinely cared about my happiness and supported my vision—no matter how crazy it’s sounded. I don’t know who I would’ve been without you two. Thank you, Mom and Dad.

g CONTENTS

what I see…

g CONTENTS

what you see…

So you made it to the next book. If you bought the first book, or were gifted it, and now you are here, thank you. I think I love you. Heck, even if this is the first book of mine you’ve picked up, thank you too. I may also love you. (Okay, let’s take this seriously, Josh.) I just want to take a very important moment to mention a couple things. For starters, this cabinet shot is an incredible homage to the hundreds and hundreds of times I’ve opened the cabinet to speak to you, and more specifically, this was an idea taken directly from the comments when I asked everyone on my YouTube channel community tab if they wanted an Easter egg in this book. (I plucked this idea right from the top comments, so shout-out to David Stowe.)

As fun as it was to make this Easter egg, I have something more important to say: thank you. I want to write these words 300,000,000 times but it would take up too much page space, so please feel free to read the words thank you that many times if you want. Every single time I come to the moment when I want to say how grateful I am for what you all have done to help turn my dreams into reality, nothing feels quite adequate enough. I just want you to know how much I appreciate you. Yes, you, the person reading this. So to try to give you some additional value here, I’d like to pass along these things: always remember that whatever you want out of life, you can have it; there will always be someone out there who cares about you and what you have to say. Also, it’s worth the extra effort to go find the thing that makes you happy. Because if you keep going, you will find it.

—JW

g CONTENTS

what is texture?

I’ll be honest: it was hard for me to even write those words because it feels like a dumb question. And I’m a big believer that dumb questions do exist. It’s very nice to say things like, “Don’t worry, buddy, there are no dumb questions,” but you’re fooling them if you say that, because there absolutely are dumb questions. That being said, there’s something massively worse than asking a dumb question—and that’s making the choice to never ask it at all. Sometimes, dumb questions lead you to thinking about something you might normally gloss over. Like texture. So let’s explore that thought.

In the realm of food, texture usually refers to the sensory perception of the physical properties of an eating experience. There are all sorts of terms used to describe texture, and to be honest, this process can get a little too deep into semantics. There are a lot of words that describe a single texture but in different ways. There are main types of texture and then subtypes of texture. For example, crunchy would be a main texture, but a subtype to crunchy would be crispy. Something can be crunchy without being crispy, but something can’t be crispy without being at least a little crunchy. To me, crispy would define something of a lighter, almost more aerated crunch rather than a harsh snap and crackle. Do you see what I mean? It’s semantics. It could get to the point where you could argue there are hundreds of main textures and subtype textural experiences. So how do we narrow that down?

In this book, I’ve essentially broken down texture into six main textures that together encapsulate a whole eating experience. Within each of these six main textures are dozens of subtextures. There’s rarely ever a single texture in any eating experience. Instead, each recipe in the chapters that follow is associated with its respective main texture. Texture is the first reason you have desire for a food. It’s the main attraction to its experience, so to speak. The beauty is that each recipe in this book shares similar textures with the other recipes, which shows that even a primary texture can also be the bass in the orchestra of your eating experience.

Funnily enough, the eating experience actually begins long before we ever put something into our mouths. (That’s not an innuendo.) If you’ve ever used the phrase “We eat with our eyes,” I’d argue that refers to the visual representation of texture. Simply put, the appearance and shape of a food imply the experience you’re about to have. Flavors can vary based on visual perception, but when you see a knife running through a smoked brisket, the steaming juices oozing out onto the counter, the moistness of the meat glistening in the light, and, best of all, the whole slab of beef shaking and jiggling like a big, round, voluptuous…let me stop myself there. You’re almost imagining the tenderness of the meat—the juiciness and the fattiness of each bite. Of course, you’re also imagining the flavor, but that visual experience tells you more about the texture than it does about the flavor.

The true experience of texture fully begins when you’re actually eating something. I think we can all agree that the experience of texture when eating is pretty straightforward. I’m not going to write about chewing food, but, I’d like to encourage you to really think about what you’re experiencing the next time you sit down for a meal. Is it crunchy? What kind of crunch is it? And how does the crunch transform as you eat it? Are there other textures you can throw on top of it to make the experience even better? Just like you’d pair a nice wine with a meal, there are also ways to pair textures.

what about flavor?

Let me start with a quick rant. Too many people think they’re right about food and cooking. You might be thinking: Oh, how devious coming from the mouth of someone who also thinks they’re right about food and cooking. For sure, I’m in the crowd of thinking I’m right—and don’t get me wrong, there are a lot of people who are right. Part of being right about anything is knowing you understand a broad spectrum of something and can still explain it simply. And one right answer could actually be one of 50 right answers. I addressed this in my last book a bit, so I won’t bore you with too much about it here, but there are just too many people who will talk about what they think is correct in cuisine and food, but 99 percent of those people have never worked in restaurants or spent time being deeply immersed in restaurant cooking culture. Yes, I’m calling out your asses right now. Okay. I’m kidding (slightly). I’m happy people are excited by food in the ways they are today.

are we just going to give flavor the finger?

I think the mere thought of ignoring flavor is a culinary sin. There’s a sort of alchemy behind cooking and eating that can only be gained through endless repetition and refinement, and by being around a group of people who are doing the same thing every single day. That’s the missing link that isn’t written about in a lot of cookbooks—if at all. It’s an understanding you can usually only acquire through experience. If you can harness that understanding, every moment you have in the world of food can be special. But there’s one massive problem: just about every cookbook I’ve ever read (yes, even the specialized ones) only talks about half of what makes food great when there’s this counterpart that has never really had the light shone on it in the way it deserves—and that counterpart is texture.

Almost every cookbook talks mostly about the flavor of a dish or the flavors represented in the book; there are entire cookbooks dedicated just to flavor. Don’t get me wrong. I happen to own some of these books, and they’re some of my favorites. And the reason so many cookbook authors turn to flavor as a primary discussion point is because it’s one of the most important elements of food. Right? Oftentimes, when we think about food, we think about how good something tastes. But what we neglect in that process is this crucial counterpart that’s easily and equally just as important—and arguably maybe even more important. It can be relatively easy to develop great flavors with minimal effort, but texture requires technique. Texture requires intentionality to really make something fantastic. Sure, we all know a potato chip is great because of the crunch. I think most of us can understand that. (Notice how I said “most.”) But mastering the element of flavor without mastering the element of texture is like leaving a stunning painting on the floor. Sure, the painting is still beautiful when you look at it, but it just doesn’t quite feel right sitting on the floor, does it? It needs to be hung on the wall to be fully appreciated.

In this book, I’d like to give you a bit of a pass to the front of the line, so to speak. I’m literally distilling more than a decade of my professional experience into this book—the ups and downs of being a line cook, the relationships I’ve messed up and broken because of my undying commitment to the craft of cooking, the tens of thousands of hours I’ve put into understanding the formula for making things that don’t just taste good but that make life worth living. Granted, a f—ing corn dog can make someone think life is worth living, so let’s not get overly philosophical here. I’m whittling everything down into one of the most singularly important elements I can imagine that most people never emphasize: texture. My hope is that by writing this book, I’m able to give you one of the biggest secrets to making and eating the best food of your life. After all, everyone needs to eat, and eating consumes a notable portion of our lives. So in a way, this isn’t just about making you a better cook. My hope is that it will help you enjoy eating food more than you ever have before.

In short, because texture is half the experience and texture affects flavor, in a way, texture is equal to—if not greater than—flavor. And that’s the point of this book.

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texture + flavor

Texture + flavor | CONTENTS

texture is everything

the missing piece

an unintentional human experiment

texture led me

secret restaurant knowledge

“build the house”

the texture breakthrough

g TEXTURE + FLAVOR g CONTENTS

texture is everything

I remember a time before we were married when I was at a coffee shop with my wife. (Ah jeez, Josh, we’re starting off all mushy-gushy—here we f—ing go. I have a point I’m trying to make here, so bear with me.) So we’re at this coffee shop, which we go to almost every morning. I work a lot because I love what I do, so my days are usually a constant go go go, with endless streams of thoughts and ideas, and I find a lot of peace in spending some time in the morning getting my classic: a 16-ounce latte with four shots of espresso and, typically, oat milk. I have no issue with dairy—I just think oat milk complements a strong latte quite well. And before you ask, yes, it’s always four shots of espresso. Every morning. I mean, I really like to raw-dog my morning with a proper dose of caffeine and flavor.

Anyway, my wife always gives me the crispy ends of the croissant she often likes to order. She knows those ends are my favorite. She also knows that I like to eat specific foods in very specific ways—especially a good croissant. There’s something about the ridiculously airy and crispy crunch that you almost feel vibrating in your skull when you eat those end pieces. It’s something special to me. Then again, I know there are people who pick out only the insides of the croissants, like some sort of sadistic Neanderthal. Or maybe that’s just their version of the crispy ends.

It doesn’t end with the crispy ends of a croissant for me, though. This is a fascination I only understand now, after going through the ropes of self-reflection, studying food and cuisine for most of my life—I have well over a decade of professional experience working independently and in fine-dining restaurants—and thankfully developing my frontal lobe. Maybe I got it from my mom or dad, both of whom love to eat and cook. The collection of unbelievably unique experiences I’ve had throughout my life and career have driven me to care about an element of food that, frankly, isn’t really talked about as much as you would think—and that element is texture. Duh, yes, people think about it and of course chefs talk about it, but there’s simply not enough conversation singularly discussing it. So let’s start off by rewinding this story a little bit.

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the missing piece

Although this next part might seem like an irrelevant piece of the puzzle, it’s one of the most important stories of my life and it led me to understand everything that makes food great, and how texture is arguably one of the most important—if not the most important component of that process. Now let me forewarn you: I’m going to talk about some unexpected topics, like dieting and weight loss, but I also want to clarify that this book has nothing to do with any sort of diet. In fact, it’s the opposite. If you’re trying to lose weight, this isn’t the book for you. This story is to make an overarching point, and I feel many people will relate to some of it.

When I was in my early teens, I was very involved (for lack of a better word) in dieting and exploring all sorts of fancy, newfangled ways of being as “healthy” as possible. It was a massive obsession fueled by a traumatic childhood of being bullied for being overweight, blah blah blah. I’ll spare you the sob story because, frankly, it’s irrelevant, and trust me, I’m over it. That being said, I tried just about every diet in the book. I tried consulting with a dietitian. Then I tried various online sources. I tried some books that were low carb and then paleo came along. And although I did lose a ton of weight in the process, I was also depriving myself of several foods I loved in an extreme way which, as a kid, I honestly didn’t realize was leaning toward being problematic. Each level of restriction led to the next. First, it was about eliminating sugary fruits; then it was eliminating low-fiber, high-starch items; then it was eliminating grains entirely; and then finally, I focused on eliminating nearly all high-starch, high-carbohydrate foods. Strawberries and broccoli were about the highest-carbohydrate items I’d eat. I was dedicated to a goal, so it wasn’t as miserable as it sounds. As a matter of fact, I became surprisingly acclimated to this daily lifestyle and I don’t recall ever feeling unhappy about these decisions.

Now why the hell am I telling you all this? Who gives a shit, right? This is where it becomes sort of an unintentional human experiment for the point I’m about to make. I want you to imagine eating only low-sugar berries, absolutely zero complex carbohydrates, and not even the most ubiquitous dietary item of the decade: the sweet potato. It was pretty much about eating low-sugar vegetables, any protein, and sometimes an occasional berry. Every single day, month, and year—for nearly three years.

This was all happening around 2010 to 2012. Looking back, that was kind of a cringy and awkward era for food, especially in the worlds of dieting and, worst of all, food blogging. I hope we all look back with a little bit of shame there. Not that there weren’t some incredible food blogs, but most of them were terrible. Something I was viscerally guilty of at the time. But hey, I was 16 and simultaneously still just so passionate about food and cooking. But although I was very dedicated to this restrictive diet, I was also dedicated to developing my skill in the craft of cooking. Becoming as great as I can be in food and cooking has been my number-one priority for as long as I can remember—and it still is. Even during my extraordinarily rigid dietary restriction era, I was, at heart, still focused on building on my technique, fine-tuning my recipe writing skills, and so on. It was like this weird and awkward perfect storm.

Like I said, I had a relatively easy time living with these restrictions, considering I had normalized them for myself, but that’s not to say I didn’t have the desire to eat a crunchy potato chip or a beautifully chewy slice of sourdough bread. What gave me peace when these moments would strike was the fact that I knew I could figure out a way to make the things I desired to eat fit my dietary restrictions. I could use the years spent during my adolescence studying food science, my understanding of molecular gastronomy, and various old-school cooking techniques to finagle my way to these foods in some shape or some way. This whole process was circulated around the questions I’d always ask myself: Why did I miss these foods? What was it about these foods or meals that made them so different from what I was eating on a day-to-day basis? It wasn’t flavor. You could mimic the flavors of toasted bread or a carbonara without using any bread or pasta. That’s not what made the desire to eat those things such a cloying thought. It was the texture of those foods I missed more than anything. This is something I think nobody in the world can ever understand unless they’ve completely eliminated foods like pizza, french fries, or burgers (with actual bread buns) from their life for long enough to almost forget what it’s like to experience eating them.

g TEXTURE + FLAVOR g CONTENTS

an unintentional human experiment

My life during this time was dedicated to finding texture, not flavor—except I didn’t fully realize it. I already knew how to make flavor go above and beyond—the real challenge was constantly trying to make things have the same “feeling” as their real counterparts. That being said, the foods I was making were always about 50 to 70 percent of what I was hoping for. Let’s face it: most gluten-free breads taste like shit. I get it. We can get them close to the real thing—and I’m an optimist—but gluten-free breads are simply nothing like the breads made with real flour and gluten. (Genuinely, for those allergic to gluten, my love goes out to you.) Without gluten, the pastas never had that nice chewy and starchy mouthfeel, pizza never had that beautiful stretch and tear when I’d take a bite, and forget french fries. Sure, frying vegetables is really, really nice, but they were not french fries.

I spent years getting closer and closer to the textures I wanted until, one day, I just sort of outgrew the idea of not eating these foods I loved. I decided to start eating a balanced diet and began reintroducing the foods I had previously eliminated. It was incredibly empowering to come back into that and be able to control myself. There was one thing I did notice immediately. The first bites of a perfect croissant or a plump, chewy bagel after years of shunning these foods instantly changed my life. I remember going to Italy after high school and spending everything I’d saved up to that point to make the most of the experience. The first bite of pizza I had after three years of eating no pizza at all was at L’antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples. They served pizza marinara, pizza margherita, water, and beer. That’s it. I took one bite and closed my eyes as I chewed. Of course, the texture was so good, it almost pissed me off—the way the charred underside of the pizza cracked upon the clenching of my teeth; the dough resisted my pull ever so slightly, followed by a gentle but slow tear; and the chewiness. God, the chewiness in my mouth was borderline spiritual—like some sort of midlife crisis ayahuasca trip. The perfect, not-too-chewy, not-too-fragile dough made the experience so wonderfully whole.

I was on the verge of tears. Not because it felt so good to have it back in my life but because it reminded of me why cooking is something I’d break my back over just to make something delicious. It made me appreciate something we all take a little bit for granted every single day. It made me think of why I care so deeply that people get to experience food and enjoy it the same way I do. You can mimic the flavor of pizza with a nice sauce and some good-quality mozzarella cheese, but nothing will ever create the symphony that is a perfect pizza without tipo 00 flour, water, salt, and yeast. That’s texture, not flavor.

A Moment of Bliss

g TEXTURE + FLAVOR g CONTENTS

texture led me

Now let me take a step back and just say I’m not nixing flavor or saying it’s unimportant. It is important. It’s essential to a great eating experience. But I’d argue that flavor can hold up only one side of the story. After my Italy trip, I figured out how important texture was and how to make a dish excel by using texture. Instead of going to college, I chose to continue to travel and learn from others, cooking in kitchens around Europe and then coming back to the United States and writing recipes for magazines and websites. Mind you, this was all before I had turned 18, so I couldn’t exactly be working in restaurants yet. To be frank, at 17, I wasn’t even sure if I wanted to work in restaurants. I had the desire and the thought of doing so in my mind on a daily basis, but I had heard so many horror stories about working in restaurants that I was unsure about it. People actually tried to make me feel like I was above it. Imagine that. Being told you’re above something when you’re literally a complete f—ing idiot and don’t even know how to do your taxes. Come on. If you aren’t even paying taxes yet or you’re evading them, you don’t get to be above anything. (That’s a joke, so please take it easy.) But the thought of working in restaurants would come to me again and again until, finally, I was on a walk in my neighborhood listening to the audiobook of Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential and he made me realize I wasn’t above it. In fact, I was completely and utterly beneath absolutely all the things that came from working in the world of fine cookery and restaurants: the dedication, the unparalleled striving for excellence, the comradery, and the sharing of a common goal. At that point, my focus was sharpened in a way I’d never previously experienced. It was like my vision snapped straight to a crystal clear 20/20, except my actual physical eyesight was pretty much shit and I had to wear glasses. My reaction was: Ah, shit, here we go. I listened to Bourdain’s words, and I didn’t hear his horror stories as if they were horror stories. I heard them like they were medals of honor earned during the heat of battle. Glorious battles filled with excitement and creativity, where people were doing the things with food that I wanted to do—and with no barriers. The message was that if you were willing to put in the work, you could get the things you wanted. The desire for excellency in the craft of cooking was attainable, and it was all right there for those who could put their heads down and get it done. It was the classic line cook story.

g TEXTURE + FLAVOR g CONTENTS

secret restaurant knowledge

So I did what any sane person would do: I joined corporate America. Just kidding—I loathed the idea of working in a cubicle. With the very intentional lack of a college diploma, I knew it was do or die. I was 100 percent determined to see this through and get into the wild and fascinating world of restaurants. The first year was confusing. I worked round and round—a day here and a day there. What I didn’t realize was that I was choosing the wrong types of restaurants. I was working in lazy bakeries and restaurants that created food I thought tasted all right but, frankly, I didn’t respect. It was very much a “feeling” thing for me. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it, but I could just tell I’d eventually know when I walked into the right restaurant and it was the one for me.

And, well, I was right. The first time it felt right was when I heard people talking about food while they were making it. Not just making the food, but there was clearly a nonstop affinity for the craft of what they were doing. I felt at home, in a weird way. Some might call it Stockholm syndrome; others might call it passion that supersedes what most people might deem important. Everything was cooked with a high level of attention to detail. Everything was sliced, diced, and chopped down to a microscopic unit of measurement. Sauces were tasted and adjusted 10 to 20 times before committing to use them for service. The restaurant was a well-oiled machine that catered to each customer as if they were the first. That’s how I’d always cooked at home, even as a kid. I cared about everything being as perfect as it possibly could be before it landed on the plate. I used to judge my meals while I ate them with my family because I knew they could always be better. It just clicked for me in that restaurant.

For the first time in my life, I decided to shut the f—k up and listen. I was squarely focused on being as much of a sponge as I possibly could be. I didn’t cast aside the massive amount of knowledge I’d gained from studying food and cooking from my wee years to the present, but instead, I kept that knowledge in my mind while staying open to accepting other opinions and techniques to add to my foundation of knowledge.

What I learned from working in those different fine-dining restaurants turned out to be the beginning of the next chapter of my life—with one of the biggest of those lessons being that there’s never just one way to do something. There are always multiple methods, techniques, and loopholes in the world of everything. Obviously, I learned that lesson in the world of food, but I also found there were valuable life lessons in these restaurant experiences too. But from a food perspective, I learned how to further my ability to dissect an eating experience so I could reverse-engineer what I wanted a diner to experience when they were eating my food. It’s just not something you can learn without having a multitude of opinions from different chefs around you constantly. At the end of the day, great chefs are only great and can only become greater because they stand on the shoulders of everyone before them. The more of those people you have in your career, the more you don’t have to figure it out on your own.

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“build the house”

Of course, I loved how those great chefs focused on flavor and how most things needed far more salt than you would realize. There was a chef I worked for who taught me a lot about salt levels. He showed me you can take things to the absolute very edge of salt levels, and that’s usually where you want to be because when you start adding other things on the plate, you still want them all to really punch you in the mouth with flavor. I learned how acid adds complexity but also offsets the effects of salt, so you must balance the two to hit a good spot. That lesson also applies to fat, the level of spiciness in a dish, etc., but the one thing that really differentiated a typical chef from a fine-dining chef wasn’t just flavor. Sure, they could describe flavor balancing more articulately. They had more reasons for flavors to be a certain way. They could explain the science of the flavor of their dish. But it was their approach to texture that was something entirely different.

You see, there’s an unavoidable issue with fine dining. Call it the “golden handcuffs,” if you will. When you go to a restaurant and order a burger, you’re going to get a burger. It might be a really shitty burger, but it will still have two halves of a bun sandwiching a ground beef patty with some other ingredients. That is, by definition, a burger. There’s already a predetermined kind of textural and flavor experience that should be there for it to be classified as such. The same thing applies when you order lasagna or matzoh ball soup. Yes, there are slightly different styles and techniques that might switch up the textures and flavors in those foods, but at the end of the day, you should still get something that’s relatively familiar and good. Fine dining isn’t like that in any way whatsoever. Nothing is like anything by design. Everything has to be created from nothing. Everything is a pipe dream that has to be made tangible and is understandable to a diner when the food’s eaten.

Every plate of food in a fine-dining restaurant is already deconstructed and, therefore, needs to be designed from start to finish. So although flavor is king, it’s also kind of a given in fine dining. There are many flavors developed in fine dining that are just basic-ass sauces that have been used for years and maybe they’ve just changed a couple ingredients. Sure, that sauce tastes f—ing great, but who cares? Nobody wants to just sit there and eat a giant bowl of rich sauce. A fine-dining chef has to create structure and impart a sort of “build-the-house” mentality to every plate or dish they come up with. So although they might have flavors identified already, that’s not even half the battle. The only way that dish will be able to stand on its own two legs and be enjoyed and understood by the diner is by using texture and balancing it properly in the dish. When a chef begins to master that balance, they’re in the right place to be properly designing a contemporary plate. Without that balance, it’d be like if human beings didn’t have bones. We’d just be some sort of weird blob on the floor. Yeah, you don’t want weird blob food.

A chef has to “build the house” on the plate to make a superb meal.

g TEXTURE + FLAVOR g CONTENTS

the texture breakthrough

I remember going to tastings for menu specials that were being tested, and the experience was often less critique over flavor and more critique on the overall execution of the dish. I usually included feedback like “Needs more crunch” or “This is too soft—it needs a little bit more bite; cook hotter and for less time.” One of the most fascinating things I heard during those days was how flavor was affected by texture. For example, I remember creating a sauce for a lamb dish that was aerated using nitrogen-charged whipped cream canisters. I made my sauce, emulsified it nicely, added a bit of xanthan gum to stabilize it, and seasoned it generously with salt until it was to my liking. Then I proceeded to aerate my sauce in the whipped cream canister, shaking it nicely and pumping it right next to the perfectly cooked and sliced lamb. The foam was gorgeous. I mean, it was just so puffed but also beautifully glossy. You could borderline see your reflection in the microfoam it created. I’ll be honest, the few seconds in that moment really went directly to my ego…which only a moment later was deflated to a near-flatlined existence.

We all tasted the dish, and the aerated sauce tasted like almost nothing. I remember the silence of the chefs when they ate it. They didn’t want to say they thought it was boring, but I knew what they were thinking. And I hated that. I heard things like, “Yeah, man, that lamb is nice.” But I didn’t give a shit about the lamb. I knew the lamb was nice. It was the sauce I worked so hard on making good. Ultimately, I chose not to go with that sauce for the final dish and went with a different one. I decided to keep workshopping what went wrong with the foam. It took one of our executive sous-chefs about two seconds to figure out what was wrong with it. He explained that when you aerate a sauce, you’re introducing a shitload of air into microscopic pockets, which will ultimately make the flavor fall on the palate with a lot less effect. A tablespoon of aerated sauce contains only about a teaspoon of the actual sauce because of the air that’s whipped into it. He explained I needed deeper flavors and more salt. It needed to be slightly oversalted and almost too strongly flavored to withstand being aerated and served.

Man, his feedback made me feel stupid, but it also made so much sense to me. By merely changing the texture of this sauce by adding air, I actually changed the experience of the flavor. And that’s how powerful of an effect texture can have on food—outside of something just being noticeably crunchy or whatever the hell the texture is of what you’re eating. It’s transformative in every way imaginable, and it can even affect our beloved flavor.

No air

30 seconds of air

1 minute of air (fine foam)

1 minute 30 seconds of air plus sugar (soft peak)

2 minutes of air (stiff peak)

g CONTENTS

crunchy

Crunchy | CONTENTS

introduction to crunchy

french fries

nashville hot honey karaage

tempura

crudité plate

arancini

prawn toast

everything bagel crackers

pommes gaufrettes

schnitzel

spicy soup base caramel corn

hazelnut praline cannoli

churros

rose water baklava

mezcal tanghulu

crispy shallots

asian pear salad

g CRUNCHY g CONTENTS

wow.

If there is a word that isn’t some sort of sexual innuendo that I’d use to describe crunchy, it would probably be wow. I know what you’re thinking: I can’t believe I’m reading a book where the author has the audacity to think that out of any word in the English language, wow is the most descriptive word to describe this category. Well, I’ll explain. For one, maybe it’s because my entire life has been dedicated to food and cooking more than it has been to writing, or really anything else for that matter. (I’m also very bad at math.) Stepping away from my self-loathing, let’s talk about why crunchy is my favorite texture.

I pick the word wow to describe crunch because it is a simple word. It requires very little thought to think: wow. Wow is more of an emotion than just a word we think of when experiencing something truly unexpected, exciting, or pleasing…just like crunchy. It’s one of the few textures that I think is beloved by just about every human being on planet Earth. It’s the reason why the most beloved snack foods are crunchy things like potato chips or Cheetos, or why the most-ordered side item for a meal is french fries. It’s one of the few things that, devoid of flavor, can still make you want to go back for another bite. And then another. And then another. And the next thing you know you’ve eaten an entire bag of chips that was really meant to feed a small family, but instead that small family was just you. It’s a texture that is SO good, it has legitimate addictive properties due to the levels of dopamine it releases in our brains as we experience it. It’s arguably the only texture that’s easy enough to enjoy at the same rate you’d binge a new season of a show on Netflix. (Ahh…mankind, finally defeated by the humble kettle-cooked barbecue potato chip. I knew it.)

So, yes, I love crunch. And it makes me say “Wow.” I am a maniac when it comes to making something crunchy. I will go to the ends of the earth and spend excessive hours, days, maybe even weeks trying to get something to its highest form of crunch. From a crunchy, salty, fatty, umami-rich, buttermilk-fried chicken leg, all the way to the perfect, crispiest tater tot…somehow crunch makes ANYTHING good. It’s also one of the most difficult textures to achieve. It’s negatively affected by so many things and requires legitimate technique to create. Have you ever had a soggy potato chip? It’s terrible. Or maybe a bag of stale breakfast cereal? Pitiful, horrifying, disgusting, and downright sad. My point is that crunch is affected by technique, but it’s also affected by simple things like humidity and temperature.

CRUNCH!

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what is crunch?

There are different kinds of crunch, and they can be broken down into several subcategories. The crunch from a potato chip is different from the crunch of chicharrones (pork rinds). Aeration really effects the crunch of chicharrones, which are much more aerated than the typical potato chip. While you get more of a snappy, loud crunch from a potato chip, the chicharrone has a kind of quick snap followed by a quickly mellowing crunch that moves toward a crispy experience, with the rind eventually melting away. It’s important to recognize the ways these differing types of crunchy foods behave because they can impact the experience of an entire plate of food. You wouldn’t serve potato chips with a side of pork rinds and call it a meal. You’d couple either of them with something soft, like a smashburger or a nice club sandwich, or maybe even some dip! You see where I’m going here? I think we all know where your head is. Fried food. I f—ing love fried food. I know a lot of people do. Even fine-dining chefs are not immune to devouring something hot, fried, salty, and greasy. We all like to put up a fancy facade, making unbelievably unforgettable eating experiences. But I don’t know a single chef in the world who, after a long night of service, wouldn’t drop to their knees with tears of joy in their eyes at the mere sight of a hot basket of freshly fried, heavily salted tater tots with a ramekin of ketchup on the side.

how do things become crunchy?

When something like a nicely breaded fried chicken or a perfectly sliced potato chip (or any food, for that matter) is lowered into hot oil and fried, the heat from the oil causes the moisture inside the food to rapidly evaporate. This process creates multiple pockets of steam, which cause the food to violently puff up and create a delightfully crispy exterior. Of course, you need the right elements to really take advantage of that rapid steaming. That’s why fried chicken essentially has lightly hydrated flour on the exterior, and that’s also why you parboil french fries to introduce a little water to the potato prior to deep-frying. (Just don’t go throwing water or ice cubes into frying oil—you’ve been warned.) Then, with enough cook time, a very thin layer of the surface of the food you’re frying will very quickly dry out and develop a nice, solid crust, which of course rounds out the crunch factor. Additionally, the heat from the oil used in the frying process helps brown the exterior of the food being fried, which can also contribute to the crunchy texture. There are all sorts of reasons why fried food seems to be the most delicious; the addition of fat helps keep things moist, and the rapid browning causes a lot of flavor intensification, resulting in an extremely unique level of crunch that baked chicken will never have. It’s exactly why something air-fried will never compare to something that’s been properly deep fried. (Apologies to all the moms who love their air fryers.)

These principles apply to any form of cookery that is used to make something crunchy. The food needs to have the right amount of water in the exterior—not too much, not too little. And when that food is combined with the right temperature and time, it can lead to the crunch of your dreams. That’s not the whole picture, of course, but it’s a snapshot into the most crucial element of mastering this texture. The only thing left to decide is what kind of crunch you’re looking for. Are you wanting to achieve a light, airy crunch, maybe like a crispy tempura shrimp? Or is it a crunch that has more of a loud, glass-like snap, like that of a kettle-cooked potato chip? Whatever the crunch you’re seeking, achieving it comes down to adding just the right amount of water and to the techniques you use both before and after you cook the food. But water is both the biggest protagonist and antagonist to success.

CHICHARRONES: CRACKLY/AIRY

CHIPS: CRUNCHY/SNAPPY

CHEESE PUFFS: CRISPY/PUFFY

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why do we love crunch so much?

I think I could make a miles-long list about the physical qualities of a good crunch, but it’s not just the physical sensation that excites. One of the least talked about reasons why people love crunch is that it’s also an auditory experience. Yes, you literally hear the crunchy, snappy sounds of that perfect chip that’s sitting near the bottom of the bag. The sound of eating crunchy foods can reach up to 63 decibels, which is slightly louder than a typical person-to-person conversation. You may have never thought about food in the form of decibels, but here we are. This is why I feel like food and music have such similar connections as art forms. The same reasons why we enjoy music may not be too dissimilar from why we also love that bag of salty and sweet kettle corn. But it’s not just junk foods that are harbingers of this great power. What about the satisfying snap of a fresh slice of ice-cold apple? Or the crunchy pop of fresh grilled corn?

This is exactly what I am talking about when I say my favorite part of a croissant is the crispy edges. It’s like the center of the croissant is dinner, and the edges are the dessert. It’s multiple eating experiences in one, and that is because of crunch. It’s the same reason people will pluck the luxuriously crunchy, fatty skin from a fresh piece of fried chicken and enjoy it as if it were the filet mignon of KFC.

There are a lot of theories as to why we love crunch. Some say it might be some sort of biological part of the brain that recognizes it as something correlated to freshness. That freshness of a right-out-of-the-ground piece of endlessly crunchy romaine. But honestly, who cares? It’s just something the majority of us love. And now we need to learn how to channel that understanding by making the greatest, most brutally addicting, crunchiest foods we can think of.

Thankfully, you don’t really need to know all the ins and outs of what makes a vegetable crunchy; you just need to focus on what makes cooked food crunchy.

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how can you harness the power of crunch?

Food becomes crunchy during cooking due to one simple reaction: the rapid dehydration or removal of moisture from the food. Yes, there are foods that are naturally crunchy, such as a carrot, but that mostly has to do with the carrot’s natural cellular structure—it’s just built like that. When it comes to cooking foods that are not naturally crunchy, you have to use your mind and body to create artificial versions of that same cellular structure. The cooking process needs to be used to cause the cellular structure of the food to become rigid, creating a crisp texture. To do this, you need to control the cooking time and temperature.

time and temperature

The key to achieving crunch is balancing the speed at which water is removed from the food (or how quickly it cooks), with the speed at which the food is browning, while also ensuring the quality of the cooking on the inside of the food. If you were to fry chicken in oil very slowly over low heat, the crust would not have enough time to really form a solid barrier between it and the chicken via the rapid release of the moisture in the breading. So your breading might look crusty, and maybe your chicken would be cooked through, but when you took that first bite it would be like biting into the bark of a nice oak tree. That’s not good, and it’s definitely not crunchy. The goal is to fry the chicken at a high enough heat that the moisture from the breading is removed quickly while the inside is cooked through and you also create a nice, crisp barrier between the breading and the chicken. Of course, that all needs to happen while you avoid getting too much browning on the outside. In essence, more heat equals more speed. It’s a LOT to balance, I know: the speed of the cook, the quality of the cook, the color on the outside, AND doing this while creating a proper barrier between chicken and breading? But I have good news for you. There is just one thing you need to control in order to cook the greatest fried chicken of all time, and that is heat. You just need to find the right temperature of the oil that you fry the chicken in. You only need to focus on this one variable FIRST when it comes to figuring out how to get something crispy or crunchy.

This principle doesn’t just apply to frying; it also applies to roasting, pan-cooking, baking, and really any process that applies heat to a food to cook it. When you start controlling the temperature and the speed of the foods you cook, you will begin to understand how to make your best hashbrown, or your best cookie, or your ultimate tortilla chips. However, going fast isn’t always the right answer. Sometimes in life you gotta take things slower, smell the roses a bit, or maybe smell the hot burger buns toasting on a griddle. You can even distill it all the way down to little things, like getting an incredible toast on buttered burger buns in a pan or on a griddle. If you go with a slightly lower temperature than usual and press the bun into the griddle a bit more, you can let that crunchy toast sort of grow into the bun, which adds a thicker and more aggressive crunch to the toast. And controlling the temperature is really what’s causing that.

It’s not always about getting things to cook as quickly as possible or removing water as quickly as possible. The type of food and whatever makes up the ingredient you’re using can also determine how you need to approach your time and temperature choices.

leveraging crunch

To me, crunch is the frame and the walls of a nice house. Yes, you need flooring, you need some good paint, and you need all the fancy weird home gadgets like refrigerators that you can tweet from. But there is truly no livable space without the walls and the frame. They provide structure to everything. The first thought I have when I think a dish is missing something texturally sounds like this dish is kind of boring as I’m chewing it. Sure, it tastes great, but there’s just nothing here that pops to add to the experience. My immediate next thought is to try adding crunch to it. Funny enough, crunch is a great cheat code to get something to immediately become a more memorable eating experience. I’ve created a little flow chart to help you:

does it need crunch?

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french fries

Let’s be honest: there are people in this world who don’t like french fries. Thankfully, I’ve yet to meet any of these people. But if you’re one of them…what happened to you? Please message me so I can get you some help. Jokes aside, this recipe is the definition of proper technique equaling very specific results. In this case, it’s a combination of crispy and crunchy and fluffy, which is a subcategory of aerated.

prep time

25 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

22 minutes

yield

5–6 servings

1¹/₂ tbsp (23ml) distilled white vinegar

1 tbsp (16g) kosher salt, plus more to taste

¹/₂ tsp (2g) baking soda

3 large russet potatoes

3 qt (2.8 liters) vegetable oil

1 Line two baking sheets with paper towels. Set aside.

2 To a 7- to 8-quart (6.6- to 7.6-liter) pot, add 3 quarts (2.8 liters) water, the distilled white vinegar, kosher salt, and baking soda. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

3 Peel and cut the potatoes into ¹/₄- × ¹/₄-inch-thick (0.7cm × 0.7cm) matchsticks that are each about 3¹/₂ inches (8.9cm).

4 When the water is boiling, carefully lower the potatoes into the water. Boil for 3 minutes and then use a spider strainer to gently transfer the potatoes to the prepared baking sheets. Allow the potatoes to cool and dry completely, about 15 to 20 minutes. (This doesn’t mean half-ass cool or dry them. They need to be completely dried and cooled.) Replace the paper towels as needed until the potatoes are completely dried.

5 Add the vegetable oil to a separate 7- to 8-quart (6.6- to 7.6-liter) pot over medium heat. Heat to 350°F (180°C).

6 Working in batches, carefully lower the parboiled fries into the hot oil, being careful not to break them. Fry for 30 to 45 seconds, or until they turn a pale white. Transfer them to a wire rack to drain completely. Repeat with the remaining fries.

7 When all the fries have been fried, allow them to cool completely and then place them on a baking sheet. Place them in the freezer overnight until frozen solid. (At this point, you can leave them in the freezer until ready to use. Once frozen, you can remove the fries from the sheet tray and place them in a more space-efficient container. You can also cover the pot of oil with a lid when it’s cooled and use it for the next fry if you plan on frying the next day.)

8 When ready to serve, heat the same amount of oil used previously in a 7- to 8-quart (6.6- to 7.6-liter) pot to 375°F (190°C). Working in batches, lower the still-frozen fries into the hot oil. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they turn a light golden brown. Use a spider strainer to transfer the fries to a wire rack to drain. Immediately season to taste with kosher salt. (Be generous with the salt!)

9 Serve hot with just about anything your heart desires, like some ketchup.

french fries

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nashville hot honey karaage

Ah, the combination of not one but two of my all-time favorite fried chickens. Karaage happens to be completely gluten free, so here you go, gluten-free homies—we’ve got your recipe. (Love you so much.) I think the crunchiest of all chickens is usually Korean fried chicken, but one of the beauties of karaage is the simplicity of its texture—it’s very light and crisp, but its initial crunch is always so tantalizing. It belongs in this chapter.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

15–20 minutes

yield

5–6 servings

2 cups (240g) cornstarch

2 tbsp (30ml) soy sauce

1 tbsp (15ml) distilled white vinegar

1 tsp (5g) grated ginger

¹/₂ tsp (3g) freshly ground white pepper

3 tbsp (45g) sriracha (or chili paste of choice)

1¹/₂ tsp (9g) fine sea salt

2 lb (910g) boneless and skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-in (2.5cm) chunks

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil

Honey, for serving

Nashville hot oil:

2 tsp (6g) smoked paprika

3 tsp (6g) cayenne

¹/₂ tsp (3g) freshly ground white pepper

2 tsp (7g) garlic powder

1 tsp (4g) MSG (optional)

2¹/₂ tsp (15g) fine sea salt

1 tbsp (13g) light brown sugar

1 cup (250ml) hot fry oil (from frying the chicken)

1 Place the cornstarch in a shallow dish. Set aside. Place a wire rack on a baking sheet. Set aside.

2 In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, distilled white vinegar, ginger, white pepper, sriracha, and fine sea salt. Whisk until combined. Add the chicken to the mixture, coat thoroughly in the sauce, cover, and place in the fridge for at least 5 minutes or up to overnight.

3 Add the vegetable oil to a 6-quart (5.6-liter) heavy-bottomed pot. (The oil shouldn’t be any higher in the pot than halfway.) Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat.

4 While the oil is heating, toss the chicken in the cornstarch until it’s completely coated in every nook and cranny. Place the coated chicken on a separate baking sheet.

5 Working in three batches, place the chicken in the hot oil and fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until it’s completely cooked through and the outside is a crispy golden brown. (To check if the chicken is fully cooked, remove the thickest piece and cut it in half. If the inside is bleeding or still pink, place it back in the oil and continue cooking until it’s fully cooked.) Transfer the cooked chicken to the wire rack to drain. Repeat with the remaining chicken.

6 Make the Nashville hot oil by combining the smoked paprika, cayenne, white pepper, garlic powder, MSG (if using), salt, and brown sugar in a medium metal or heatproof bowl. Whisk until combined. Add 1 cup (240ml) of the hot fry oil from the frying pot. Whisk again until thoroughly combined.

7 Add the chicken to the Nashville hot oil. Toss until the chicken is completely coated and then transfer to the wire rack to drain. Serve immediately with a light drizzle of your favorite honey over the top. (Alternatively, serve as is or with a flavored mayo or aioli on the side for dipping.)

nashville hot honey karaage

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tempura

Tempura is one of the most delicate techniques in the crunch realm. Sure, it can be crunchy, but its beauty is how it almost melts immediately upon shattering in your mouth. And it really doesn’t require fancy ingredients; it’s more about the battering process. The frying ingredients used in this recipe are just suggestions; you can tempura almost anything—even one of those indestructible Nokia phones, but I’m not suggesting you try that.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

5–6 servings

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil

1 large head of broccoli, cut into florets

¹/₂ medium kabocha squash, cored, peeled, and cut into ¹/₄-in-thick (0.7cm) half moons

1 medium zucchini, cut into ¹/₄-in-thick (0.7cm) coins

9 medium shrimp, tails on, peeled, and deveined

Tentsuyu:

1 cup (250ml) dashi stock (Japanese sea stock; see dashi stock recipe)

3 tbsp (45ml) mirin

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) soy sauce

Togarashi seasoning salt:

3 tbsp (45g) kosher salt

1 tsp (4g) sugar

2 tsp (6g) shichimi togarashi seasoning

¹/₂ tsp (3g) freshly ground white pepper

Batter:

1 cup (115g) cake flour

¹/₄ cup (30g) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

1 cup (250ml) plain carbonated water

1 large egg

1 In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine all the ingredients for the tentsuyu. Heat until steaming hot. Transfer to an insulated container so it’s hot for serving. Set aside.

2 In a small bowl, whisk the ingredients for the togarashi seasoning salt until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

3 Add the vegetable oil to a 7-quart (6.6-liter) heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C).

4 In a medium bowl, make the batter by whisking together the cake flour, all-purpose flour, and fine sea salt until combined. Add the carbonated water and egg. Use either a fork or two chopsticks to gently mix until thoroughly combined and little to no lumps remain. (Don’t overmix or it will toughen your fry. This should have the consistency of a slightly lighter heavy whipping cream.)

5 Pat dry the broccoli, kabocha squash, and zucchini; dunk them in the batter; and then immediately—but carefully—lay them into the hot oil. Fry for 3 to 5 minutes or until light golden brown and beautifully crisp. Drain on a wire rack lined with paper towels. Immediately season to taste with the Togarashi seasoning salt.

6 Lightly dust the shrimp with all-purpose flour and then shake off the excess. Dunk the shrimp into the batter until completely coated and then immediately transfer to the hot oil. (Avoid adding more than 3 shrimp at a time to the pot to avoid overcrowding.) Fry for about 3 to 4 minutes per batch, or until golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the oil and drain on a wire rack lined with paper towels. Immediately season with the togarashi seasoning salt.

7 Serve with a ramekin or small bowl of the hot tentsuyu on the side for dipping.

dashi stock

prep time: 10 minutes

cook time: 20 minutes

yield: 1 quart (950ml)

1 quart (950ml) filtered water

2 (2-inch[5cm]) pieces kombu

³/₄ cup (10g) bonito flakes

1 To a small saucepan, add the filtered water and kombu. Cook over medium-low heat until steaming, being careful not to bring it to a simmer or a boil. (A simmer will cause the kombu to make the liquid slimy.) When it reaches a steamy heat, maintain that temperature for 10 minutes.

2 Once steeped, turn off the heat and add the bonito flakes. Cover and steep for 10 minutes more.

3 Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Let the liquid cool to room temperature. Use immediately, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze indefinitely.

tempura

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crudité plate

Enjoying a crudité plate is like drinking water after you’ve forgotten to do it but then you realize how badly you needed it. When you put one of these delights in your mouth, you’ll instantly realize what you’ve been missing. I guess that could go in a lot of different directions, but I’m hoping you know what I mean here.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

3–4 minutes

yield

4 servings

1 medium red bell pepper

¹/₄ cup (30g) toasted pine nuts

¹/₄ cup (60ml) lemon juice, plus more to taste

8 garlic cloves

1 tbsp (15ml) water

Kosher salt, to taste

¹/₂ cup (125ml) vegetable oil

Crushed ice, for serving

3 medium carrots, peeled and shaved ¹/₄ in (0.7cm) thin lengthwise on a mandoline

2 small golden beets, peeled and shaved into ¹/₄-in (0.7cm) rounds on a mandoline

4 French radishes, shaved ¹/₄-in (0.7cm) thick lengthwise on a mandoline

1 head endive, leaves individually separated

Flaky finishing salt (Maldon or Jacobsen recommended)

1 Place the bell pepper directly on top of a stovetop burner. Turn the burner to high heat, and char the entire pepper, using tongs to rotate the pepper frequently. Place the charred pepper in a medium bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside for 5 minutes.

2 After 5 minutes, use a hand towel to wipe off the charred skin. (You’re definitely going to have to wash that towel, so I’d suggest not using a white towel. Alternatively, you can use a paper towel.) Remove the core and seeds from the bell pepper.

3 Place the bell pepper flesh in a high-speed blender. Add the pine nuts, lemon juice, garlic, water, and kosher salt to taste. Blend on high until as smooth as possible. If it’s too thick to vortex in your blender, add additional water 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time until it catches on the blade.

4 When smooth, carefully and gradually stream in the vegetable oil while the blender is still running. If it thickens too much to blend, add additional water 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time until it continues blending. When the mixture is as smooth as possible, transfer it to a medium bowl and season to taste with additional salt and lemon juice as needed.

5 Fill a large shallow bowl all the way to the brim with crushed ice. Nestle the vegetables in the ice so they stand up, arranging them nicely. Top with a generous sprinkling of flaky finishing salt. Serve with the sauce on the side for dipping.

crudité plate

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arancini

Not to show off, but the first time I had arancini was on a beautiful spring day in Florence, Italy. I know what you’re thinking: Wow, really nice, Josh. How am I supposed to top that experience? Well, you see, it’s not so much about topping the experience as much as it’s about bringing a little bit of that experience into your home and using that to show your superiority as a cook and a human being.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

10 minutes

yield

15 balls

3 cups (375g) chilled leftover butternut risotto, pancetta, and fried sage (see Note)

¹/₄ lb (115g) whole-milk mozzarella, cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

¹/₂ cup (60g) all-purpose flour

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

¹/₄ tsp (1g) freshly ground black pepper

¹/₄ tsp (1g) dried oregano

2 large eggs

1 tbsp (15ml) water

1¹/₂ cups (125g) panko breadcrumbs

2 qt (1.9 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

1 To shape the arancini, roll 3 tablespoons (21g) of cold risotto into a light ball. Press 1 cube of mozzarella into the center of the ball and then shape the risotto around the cheese cube, reforming it into a perfect ball. Repeat with the remaining risotto and mozzarella cubes, placing each ball on a small plate or baking sheet. Transfer to the fridge to keep cold.

2 In a small bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, fine sea salt, black pepper, and oregano. Whisk until thoroughly combined.

3 In a separate small bowl, combine the eggs and water. Whisk until homogeneous.

4 To a medium bowl, add the panko breadcrumbs.

5 Add the vegetable oil to a 5-quart (4.7-liter) heavy-bottomed pot. Heat to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat. Remove the balls from the fridge.

6 To bread your balls (nice!), toss a ball into the flour to completely coat, shake off the excess, and then coat completely in the egg wash. Finally, coat in panko breadcrumbs to seal the entire ball. Place the ball on a baking sheet, and repeat with the remaining balls.

7 Fry your balls in three batches until golden brown and just fried through. Serve immediately, plain or with a dipping sauce of your choice on the side.

NOTE: The butternut risotto, pancetta, and fried sage intentionally makes more than what you’d need for two people. You can use that leftover risotto to make this recipe.

arancini

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prawn toast

If you have not ticked prawn toast off your list of things you’ve tried, then this is the time to do it. I made this recipe a bit milder in flavor so anyone who tries it can fall in love with it properly.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

5 minutes

yield

2 servings

1 qt (950ml) vegetable oil

¹/₂ lb (225g) shrimp, peeled and deveined

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

1 tsp (5ml) soy sauce

¹/₂ tsp (4g) sugar

1 egg white

1 green onion, very finely chopped

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) cornstarch

¹/₂ tsp (2.5ml) toasted sesame oil

4 slices white bread

Raw sesame seeds, for coating

Dipping sauce:

¹/₃ cup (77g) mayonnaise

1 garlic clove, grated

1 tsp (5ml) lemon juice

1 tbsp (15g) spicy chili crisp

1 Add the vegetable oil to a 5-quart (4.7-liter) heavy-bottomed pot or deep cast-iron pan. (The oil should not be any higher than halfway up the vessel.) Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat.

2 While the oil is heating, make the dipping sauce by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until homogeneous and thoroughly combined. Set aside.

3 Remove the tails from the shrimp. Place the shrimp in a food processor and process until just a few small pieces are distributed throughout. Transfer the shrimp to a small bowl. Add the fine sea salt, soy sauce, sugar, egg white, green onion, cornstarch, and sesame oil. Mix until thickened.

4 Evenly distribute half the shrimp paste on 1 slice of bread and then top with a second slice. Repeat with the remaining shrimp paste and bread.

5 Press the sandwiches just firmly enough to adhere the bread slices together and push the paste to the edges of the bread. Dip each edge of a sandwich into the sesame seeds to coat the exposed shrimp paste. Repeat with the second sandwich.

6 Fry the sandwiches, one at a time, in the hot oil for 5 to 6 minutes, or until golden brown and the shrimp is cooked through, flipping frequently.

7 Serve with the dipping sauce on the side.

prawn toast

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everything bagel crackers

Sometimes, we want the vibe of an everything bagel but don’t want to have to eat the whole everything bagel. If only there were some sort of snack that fit that role…oh wait, you’re looking at it.

prep time

50 minutes

cook time

10–15 minutes

yield

8 crackers

1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 cup (150g) whole-wheat flour

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₃ cup (75ml) warm water

1 egg white

Everything seasoning:

3 tbsp (27g) white sesame seeds

1 tbsp (9g) black sesame seeds

1 tbsp (4g) onion flakes

1 tbsp (8g) minced dried garlic

1 tbsp (9g) poppy seeds

2¹/₂ tbsp (35g) flaky sea salt

1 In a medium bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, and fine sea salt. Whisk until combined, then whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil and the warm water. Mix to combine and then knead by hand for 2 to 3 minutes or until a smooth dough forms. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

2 In a medium bowl, combine the ingredients for the everything seasoning. Mix until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

3 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

4 After 30 minutes, remove the dough from the plastic wrap. Cut the dough in half and then cut each half into four evenly sized pieces (about 2 ounces [57g] each). Cover 4 of the pieces with plastic wrap so they don’t dry out. Set aside. Roll out the remaining 4 pieces until you get very thin and long ovals, using additional flour for dusting as needed. (A pasta roller makes this task a lot easier.)

5 Lay two ovals side by side on the prepared baking sheet. Place the other two ovals on the second baking sheet. Brush the tops of the dough with the egg white and then sprinkle 1 teaspoon (6g) of the everything seasoning over each oval.

6 Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until light golden brown and crisp. Remove from the oven, set aside to cool, and repeat the process with the remaining dough pieces.

7 Allow the crackers to cool completely before enjoying. Serve with whatever you like, such as a charcuterie and/or a cheese board, or smoked salmon and cream cheese. These will keep in an airtight container or bag at room temperature for 7 to 8 days.

everything bagel crackers

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pommes gaufrettes

Let’s face it: this is a fancy potato chip. But it’s not just a fancy chip. And if you’re a waffle fry person, welcome to a whole new world of potato chips—or “crisps,” if you’re English.

prep time

25 minutes

cook time

15 minutes

yield

3–4 servings

2 tsp (10ml) distilled white vinegar

¹/₂ tsp (2g) baking soda

1 tbsp (16g) kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 lb (455g) russet potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil

1 In a medium saucepan, combine 1 quart (950ml) water, the distilled white vinegar, baking soda, and kosher salt. Bring just to a boil over medium-high heat and then remove from the heat.

2 Using a mandoline with the crinkle-cut attachment set to ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) thickness, cut a russet potato in one direction and then turn the potato 90 degrees and cut again. Turn the potato 90 degrees and cut again. Continue cutting, turning the potato 90 degrees after each cut to get a beautiful waffle effect. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.

3 Place the potato slices in a large bowl. Cover with the hot water mixture, and set aside for 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and lay them on a paper towel to dry completely.

4 While the potatoes are drying, add the vegetable oil to a heavy-bottomed pot, making sure the oil level isn’t any higher than halfway up the pot. Heat the oil over medium-high heat to 350°F (180°C).

5 When the potatoes are dry, fry them in batches in the hot oil for about 2 to 4 minutes, or until light golden brown and very crispy. Remove the potatoes from the oil to drain on paper towels. Immediately season to taste with kosher salt.

6 Serve plain or with a dipping sauce of your choice on the side.

pommes gaufrettes

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schnitzel

with blackberry jam

There’s beauty in simplicity—a crispy cutlet and a sweet, slightly tangy, and rich jam. It’s the epitome of salty, rich, and sweet, and there’s no better pairing than that, except when you add the explosive crunch of a perfectly fried breading.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

5–6 servings

3–5 lb (1.5–2.3 kg) boneless pork loin, cut into 2¹/₂-in-thick (6.4cm) slices

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, for seasoning

1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

1 tbsp (15ml) water

2 cups (240g) plain breadcrumbs

3¹/₂ cups (875ml) vegetable oil

2 lemons, cut into wedges

Blackberry jam:

1 qt (2 pints) fresh blackberries

³/₄ cup (150g) sugar

¹/₄ cup (60ml) water

1 To make the blackberry jam, combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 7 to 10 minutes or until the liquid is reduced and thickened, stirring occasionally. (You can check the thickness by pouring about 1 teaspoon (4g) on a small plate and placing it in the fridge for 1 minute. If after a minute it forms a sticky string when rubbed between two fingers, it’s done.) Pass the jam through a fine-mesh strainer and allow to cool completely.

2 Butterfly each piece of pork and gently open it up. Use a meat mallet to smash both butterflied sides so the pork is about ¹/₃-inch (0.9cm) thick and massively wide. (Try to avoid making holes in it.) Season the pork pieces with salt and black pepper, and let them sit for 5 minutes at room temperature.

3 While the pork is resting, add the all-purpose flour to a shallow dish. Whisk the eggs and water in a second shallow dish. Add the breadcrumbs to a third shallow dish.

4 Fill a deep, 12-inch (30.5cm) cast-iron skillet with just enough vegetable oil to be ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm) deep, making sure the oil is no higher than halfway up the side of the skillet. Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat.

5 When you’re ready to fry, completely coat a piece of pork in the flour. Shake off the excess and then dip the pork in the egg. Finally, fully coat the pork in the breadcrumbs, gently pressing the pork into the breadcrumbs to adhere them to the pork. Repeat with the remaining pork pieces.

6 Fry the schnitzels, one at a time, for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until golden brown and cooked through, flipping them often.

7 Serve with a lemon wedge and a side of the blackberry jam. (If you did this properly, one schnitzel should take up an entire plate.)

schnitzel with blackberry jam

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spicy soup base caramel corn

Look, you’ve already bought this book. Or I’m assuming you did. Maybe you’re reading this alone in a bookstore or something. In which case, what the hell are you doing? You’re torturing yourself by reading about food without a kitchen nearby? Anyway, my point is I’m not trying to convince you to make this recipe. You don’t need to make it, but…one crunch from these salty-sweet-umami hot boys will remind you what this chapter is all about.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

45 minutes

yield

about 10 cups (110g)

2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil

Heaping ¹/₃ cup (65g) popcorn kernels

1 cup (185g) light brown sugar

¹/₂ cup (125ml) light corn syrup

1 cup (225g) salted butter

¹/₂ tsp (2g) baking soda

2 tsp (6g) shichimi togarashi seasoning

1³/₄ tsp (5g) mushroom soup base powder

2 tsp (10ml) pure vanilla extract

1 Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C) or its lowest setting. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray.

2 Combine the vegetable oil and popcorn kernels in a large 4- to 5-quart (3.8- to 4.7-liter) pot set over medium heat. Cover the pot with a lid, and begin gently shaking it back and forth while keeping it in constant contact with the stovetop flame or burner. Continue shaking the pot until you begin hearing pops, which will take a few minutes. When the popcorn starts popping, begin shaking the pot back and forth more quickly; the pops should increase in frequency. When the popping ceases, stop shaking the pot and remove it from the heat. Pour the popcorn into a large heatproof bowl.

3 Combine the brown sugar, corn syrup, and butter in a 2-quart (1.9-liter) saucepan set over medium heat. Allow the mixture to melt while constantly stirring. (Stirring caramelized sugar is usually a no-no, but it works for this method.) As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, stop stirring and let it boil for another 5 minutes.

4 While the sugar mixture is boiling, combine the baking soda, shichimi togarashi seasoning, and mushroom soup base powder in a small bowl. Stir until combined.

5 Remove the brown sugar mixture from the heat, and whisk in the baking soda mixture and vanilla extract. Once combined, pour the sugar mixture over the popcorn and then use a spatula to gently fold until the popcorn is thoroughly coated with the mixture.

6 Spread the caramel corn on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally to distribute the heat.

7 When it’s done baking, remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely. When the caramel corn is cooled, break it into smaller pieces. Store in a sealed container, or eat it all right now. (I won’t judge you.)

spicy soup base caramel corn

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hazelnut praline cannoli

I’ve never been a huge cannoli guy. Not because they aren’t good—but because I always want a little something extra. Luckily, these cannoli have that little something extra.

prep time

1 hour, plus overnight

cook time

32 minutes

yield

about 30 cannoli

Hazelnut praline paste and crumble:

1 cup (135g) raw hazelnuts

³/₄ cup (150g) granulated sugar

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) water

Pinch of fine sea salt

Shells:

2 cups (260g) all-purpose flour

3 tbsp (36g) granulated sugar

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

3 tbsp (36g) room-temperature lard

¹/₃ cup (85ml) marsala wine

1 large egg

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

1 egg white

Filling:

1 (32oz [910g]) container full-fat ricotta

³/₄ cup (190g) mascarpone

¹/₂ cup (75g) powdered sugar

1 tsp (2g) lemon zest

3 tbsp (45g) hazelnut praline paste

3 tbsp (45g) hazelnut praline crumble

³/₄ cup (45g) mini chocolate chips

For the hazelnut praline paste and crumble:

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and spread the hazelnuts on the baking sheet. Toast the hazelnuts for 8 to 10 minutes or until they’re lightly browned and the skins are falling off.

2 Remove the skins from the hazelnuts by placing them on a kitchen towel, folding it over the hazelnuts, and rubbing them to remove as much skin as possible. Remove the nuts from the towel and allow them to cool completely on the baking sheet.

3 Add the granulated sugar and water into a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir lightly to combine. Boil the mixture for 10 minutes, or until it turns an amber color. (Do not stir.) Pour it over the hazelnuts. Allow to cool completely.

4 When the nuts have cooled, add them to a food processor along with the fine sea salt. Pulse until you get a crumbly texture. Transfer half the mixture to a small bowl and set aside. Process the remaining nuts until they form a smooth paste and set aside.

For the shells:

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt until combined. Cut in the lard until you get a crumbly mixture. Add the marsala wine and whole egg. Mix until the dough comes together in a shaggy mess. Knead by hand for about 5 minutes or until you get a smooth dough, adding 1 tablespoon (15ml) or so of water if the dough feels a bit too dry. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2 Add the vegetable oil to a 6-quart (5.7-liter) heavy-bottomed pot. (The oil should not reach any higher than halfway up the pot.) Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat.

3 Divide the rested cannoli dough into two pieces. Roll each piece very thinly, about ¹/₁₆-inch (1.6mm) thick. (A pasta roller will make the job easier.)

4 Use a 4-inch (10cm) cookie cutter to cut the dough into rounds. Spray cannoli molds with cooking spray. Lightly brush one end of a dough round with egg white and then wrap it around a mold so the end brushed with egg white closes on top of the other side of the dough. (The egg white serves as an adhesive to seal the dough.) Lightly press to adhere the ends and then repeat with the remaining dough rounds.

5 Using heatproof tongs, carefully immerse the shells in the hot oil. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes and then place on paper towels to drain. Transfer the drained shells to a wire rack to cool completely. Remove from molds.

For the filling:

1 Place a cheesecloth or muslin cloth over a large bowl. Add the ricotta cheese to the cloth and then place in the fridge overnight to drain any excess whey.

2 Combine the strained ricotta, mascarpone, and powdered sugar in a large bowl. Mix until well combined. Fold in the lemon zest, hazelnut praline paste, three-quarters of the hazelnut praline crumble, and the mini chocolate chips. Transfer to a pastry bag with a wide round tip.

3 Pipe each cooled cannoli shell with the filling. Dip the exposed ends in the remaining praline crumble. Enjoy!

hazelnut praline cannoli

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churros

Traditionally, a churro is a straight log piped into hot oil. But by piping these ahead of frying, you not only get the cutest little rose of crispy, cinnamon sugar crunch, you also get the opportunity to leave them in the fridge to fry and serve the next day. If you serve these during a party, I have a feeling everyone will be on their knees begging you to never leave them again.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

23 minutes

yield

12 churros

Dough:

1 cup (250ml) water

¹/₄ cup (56g) unsalted butter

2¹/₂ tbsp (30g) sugar

Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour

2 qt (1.9 liter) vegetable oil, for frying

1 large egg

1 egg yolk

Cinnamon sugar:

1 cup (200g) sugar

2¹/₂ tsp (9g) ground cinnamon

Chocolate sauce (optional):

¹/₂ cup (56g) unsweetened cocoa powder

³/₄ cup (150g) sugar

¹/₄ tsp (1g) fine sea salt

¹/₂ tsp (2g) ground cinnamon

¹/₂ tsp (3g) espresso powder

¹/₂ cup (125ml) cold water

2 tsp (10ml) pure vanilla extract

1 Begin making the dough by combining the water, butter, sugar, vanilla seeds, and fine sea salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the all-purpose flour. Stir continuously with a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon until the mixture comes together and is thoroughly combined. Transfer to a medium bowl, and set aside to cool for 5 to 7 minutes.

2 While the flour mixture is cooling, fill a heavy-bottomed pot or large, deep skillet with the vegetable oil, making sure the oil doesn’t go any higher than halfway up the side of the vessel. Heat the oil to 365°F (185°C) over medium-high heat.

3 While the oil is heating, make the cinnamon sugar by whisking together the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl until combined. Set aside.

4 Make the chocolate sauce (if using) by combining all the ingredients except the vanilla extract in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat. When the mixture begins to boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, for 45 seconds, or until thickened and glossy. Whisk in the vanilla extract, cover the saucepan, and remove it from the heat. Set aside until ready to use.

5 Add the egg and egg yolk to the flour mixture. Use a handheld mixer to mix until smooth and homogeneous. Transfer the mixture to a large piping bag fitted with a ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm) rounded star tip.

6 Cut twelve 4- × 4-inch (10 × 10cm) squares of parchment paper. Lightly coat a baking sheet with cooking spray, and place the parchment squares on top of the greased tray so they don’t move around. Starting in the center of each square, pipe a tight spiral of the dough, leaving at least a ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) empty border around the edges of the parchment square. Repeat with the remaining batter.

7 When you’re ready to fry, carefully lay 1 churro—still attached to the parchment paper—in the hot oil. (Fry no more than 2 to 3 at a time.) When the paper loosens, use tongs to carefully remove it from the oil and then discard it. Allow the churro to fry for 2 to 4 minutes more or until crisp golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack, and drain for 15 seconds before immediately tossing in the cinnamon sugar.

8 Serve immediately, plain or with the chocolate sauce (if using) on the side for dipping.

churros

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rose water baklava

Some people think baklava is super hard to make, but in my opinion, it’s one of the easiest desserts in this book to make. And if you want to talk crunch, several blistering layers of crunch is what you’ll get from this recipe, but let’s not forget the oozing, chewy sweetness that lines each and every layer.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

1 hour

yield

3 dozen

¹/₂ lb (225g) walnuts, plus more for topping

¹/₂ lb (225g) pecans, plus more for topping

1 tsp (3g) ground cinnamon

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground nutmeg

1 (16oz [454g]) package phyllo dough

1¹/₄ cups (280g) unsalted butter, melted

³/₄ cup (185ml) water

³/₄ cup (150g) sugar

1¹/₂ tsp (7.5ml) rose water

³/₄ cup (185ml) wildflower honey

1 Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Spray the bottom and sides of a 9- × 13-inch (23 × 33cm) baking pan with cooking spray.

2 Add the walnuts and pecans to a food processor. Pulse until moderately fine. (You want tiny pieces that are no larger than about ¹/₄ inch [0.7cm].) Transfer the nuts to a medium bowl. Add the cinnamon and nutmeg and then toss until thoroughly combined.

3 Place 2 sheets of the phyllo dough in the prepared baking pan. Brush the top sheet generously with melted butter. Add 1 sheet and brush the top with butter. Repeat the process until you’ve added a total of 10 phyllo sheets to the pan. (Be sure to keep the unused phyllo sheets covered with a damp towel to prevent them from drying out while you work.)

4 Add about ¹/₄ of the nut mixture on top of the pastry layers, and spread the mixture evenly over the dough. Repeat the layering process with 5 more sheets and then add another quarter of the nut mixture. Repeat the process until you’ve used all the nut mixture. Finish by adding 10 more layers of the phyllo dough, buttering each sheet, and then brushing the very top sheet with butter.

5 Cut the pastry into 1¹/₂-inch-wide (3.8cm) strips and then cut diagonally to get nice diamond shapes. Bake for 1 hour or just until the tops are golden brown.

6 While the baklava is baking, combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Heat until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the rose water and wildflower honey.

7 When the pastry is done baking, remove it from the oven and immediately pour the rose water syrup over the hot phyllo pastry to evenly coat the entire pan. (It will start boiling vigorously; don’t worry—that’s what should happen.)

8 If desired, top with additional chopped nuts. Allow to cool completely, and enjoy.

rose water baklava

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mezcal tanghulu

Encase your fruits in a crunchy, almost crème brûlée–like layer of hardened sugar, and never go back.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

15 minutes

yield

10–15 skewers

1 lb (455g) assorted whole or large chunks of fruit (such as strawberries [tops removed], grapes, blueberries, mandarin orange segments, and kiwi and pineapple chunks)

10–15 bamboo skewers

2 cups (400g) sugar

1 cup (250ml) water

1 tbsp (15ml) mezcal

1 Wash and dry the fruit thoroughly. (The fruit needs to be as dry as possible.)

2 Fill a medium bowl with ice water. Set aside.

3 Place the fruit on the skewers, varying the number of each type of fruit from 1 to 3 per skewer. (I recommend limiting larger fruits like strawberries to a single piece per skewer.)

4 Add the sugar, water, and mezcal to a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Place a candy thermometer in the pan. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium-low. (Do not stir.) Simmer until it reaches 300°F (150°C) and then turn off the heat.

5 Moving quickly but carefully, grasp one end of a skewer and dip the fruit into the sugar syrup mixture, turning the skewer gently to coat the entire surface area of the fruit.

6 Allow any excess syrup to drip off and then quickly submerge the fruit in the bowl of ice water. (Try to move quickly before the syrup cools too much.) Place the skewer upright in a piece of Styrofoam to cool completely.

7 Repeat with the remaining skewers and then serve immediately. (These are best eaten right away, while they’re fresh.)

mezcal tanghulu

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crispy shallots

Put these on everything. That’s it. That’s all I have to say about this.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

8 minutes

yield

about 2 cups

8 large shallots

1¹/₂ qt (1.4 liters) vegetable oil

Kosher salt, to taste

1 Cut the top off each shallot and then peel, leaving it whole with its root still attached.

2 Use a mandoline to slice the shallots to just slightly under ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) thick. (You can do this with a knife, but one of the most important elements to evenly cooking the shallots is how similar in size the slices are, which will ensure you end up with equally crunchy shallots.)

3 To a 4-quart (3.8-liter) pot over medium-high heat, add the vegetable oil and shallots. Stir continuously with a pair of wooden chopsticks while the oil heats up. At first, the shallots will begin to lightly simmer, but then they’ll begin to fry. Don’t stop stirring.

4 When the bubbling subsides and the shallots are a nice light golden brown (about 5 to 8 minutes), use a spider strainer to transfer the shallots to paper towels to drain. Immediately season to taste with kosher salt, and toss to distribute the salt. Allow the shallots to cool completely to ensure they’re crunchy.

5 Store in an airtight container with a small piece of folded paper towel placed in the bottom of the container. (Optionally, you can add a silica gel packet on top of the shallots.) These will stay fresh for weeks. Enjoy on top of anything that could use a nice, light, sweet-and-salty, crispy shallot bite.

crispy shallots

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asian pear salad

This is probably one of my all-time favorite snacks. It requires almost no effort whatsoever—with no cooking at all. You literally just kind of slap it all together on a plate in less than 10 minutes, but it’s such a textural wonderland of so many things: the crispiness of the fresh pears, the crunch of the salami and pistachios, and the creaminess of the Parmigiano-Reggiano. It seems so basic—and that’s because it is! (Got to toss in some simple ones among these harder recipes.)

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

none

yield

3–4 servings

1.25oz (35g) salami, cut into small ¹/₄-in (0.7cm) pieces

3 Asian pears, thinly sliced

¹/₃ cup (50g) finely chopped toasted pistachios

1 medium lemon

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Flaky salt, for finishing

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for topping

1 Preheat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the salami pieces and toss frequently, until crisped. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2 Fan out the thinly sliced Asian pears on a plate.

3 Top the pears with the salami and then the pistachios. Zest the lemon over the top and then hit it with a touch of lemon juice.

4 Finish with a generous drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, a pinch of flaky salt, and a sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (either shaved or finely shredded) over the top. Enjoy immediately.

asian pear salad

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chewy

Chewy | CONTENTS

introduction to chewy

new york bagels

chinese sticky rice

carbonara tteokbokki

pastrami bacon

brazilian churrasco-style picanha

homemade roast beef

fat-ass pork chop

jjolmyeon

brown sugar boba tea

giant baseball cookies

chewy fudge brownies

smoked salted caramel candies

cortado ice cream sandwiches

g CHEWY g CONTENTS

what is chew?

I don’t think we give chew enough credit. We certainly don’t in America. There’s something about a good chew that is almost as desirable as a good crunch. Ironically, I do think there are a lot of occasions when chew can equal a horrible experience too. Like when you think you’re being smart and microwaving a chicken breast only for it to go rubbery and develop a chew firmer than a leather boot from the early 1800s.

Leather boots aside, chewy foods bring a level of satisfaction to the table that I think is equitable to almost getting that perfect scratch to an itch, but not quite fully getting it. It’s this cloying but exciting moment that is only fulfilled when you’ve finished eating. Chewy foods are really characterized by their ability to provide a pleasurable eating experience that requires noticeably more effort than softer foods. And it’s the process of that extra effort that creates the experience that’s beloved by people of all ages, across the entire globe. So, yes, people really give a shit about it—myself included.

If you ever heard Anthony Bourdain talk about pho and Vietnamese culture, he briefly brings up the topic of how the Vietnamese love to add chewy textures to their beloved beef noodle soup, and I’m not talking about the noodles. It’s an example of another culture deciding whether chewiness should or shouldn’t be utilized, and the opinions on this vary across every single part of the spectrum. This is exactly why everybody in their own respective culture believes their way is the correct way to do things, when in fact there are hundreds, if not thousands (hell, maybe even millions?), of ways to enjoy something like chew, and it’s not limited only to the ways you might know it.

WHAT’S CONSIDERED THE IDEAL CHEW IS DIFFERENT AROUND THE WORLD.

g CHEWY g CONTENTS

what makes something chewy?

More often than not, chewy foods are created by the combination of a starch and a protein of some sort. The protein doesn’t necessarily need to be animal protein. Think of gluten. (I can hear the gasps and wails of despair from 2010 already.) Gluten is a protein naturally found in wheat, and it’s what gives that beautiful stretch, pull, and chew to breads, pizzas, pastas, and everything in between. The combination of starch and protein is what creates a dense and elastic structure. It’s that structure that gives most chewy foods their iconic texture that makes you roll your eyes to the back of your head. Obviously, chew can range anywhere from soft to tough and borderline resilient. Sometimes an extra-resilient chew actually makes for a better experience. To other cultures, that might be a nicely cooked beef tendon; to Americans, that could be a beautifully chewy bagel. (I would do some disgusting, horrific things for a great bagel, and I say that without hesitation.)

Chew doesn’t only exist in starch though; it exists in lots of other places, like the caramelization of sugars or as previously stated, in just about any protein. Aside from the flavor, it’s that unctuous, tender chew to a juicy steak that makes it so desirable. It can also come from gelatin, like in the form of gummy bears if you’re into them. (I like gummy bears, but somehow they almost seem to be manufactured to destroy your stomach after you’ve eaten a bunch of them.)

Obviously, chew can just exist in its natural state, but it can also be created, intensified, and changed. It’s the reason that the world is just now finally waking up to properly cooked rice and pastas—cooking them for the right amount of time means you’ll enjoy the chew that comes along with them. Kneading your pizza dough a touch longer might add a bit more chew in the final dough. You are essentially making decisions and taking actions in the moment, and also early in the process, that will ultimately yield an end product with the exact type and level of chew you’re looking for. As you’ll discover with many things in this book, your focus should always be on the end product.

A DENSE CHEW VS. A SOFT CHEW—THERE ARE MAJOR DIFFERENCES!

g CHEWY g CONTENTS

why do we love chew?

The cool thing about chew is that there are so many things that simply couldn’t be enjoyed the same way without it. Can you imagine a world where a beautiful soup dumpling existed with no chew whatsoever? That sounds awful. There would essentially just be this nagging feeling that negates the most important part of the experience. It’s like taking a joyous experience and replacing the part that makes it joyous with a crying baby on an airplane. Sure, sure, it’s a nice flight. You’re enjoying your time, and you can put on your noise-canceling headphones. But that baby is f—ing right next to you. The nice flight is the flavor and juicy goodness on the inside, and the screaming baby is the lack of that beautiful chewy dumpling enveloping it.

Southeast Asian cultures understand chew to the highest degree I’ve seen so far. I know there may be some cultures I’m leaving out here, but what I love about how southeast Asian cuisine approaches chew is that it’s not used as just a textural device. Instead, it’s used so beautifully to increase the overall taste of the entire meal. It carries flavor to your mouth in a boat that can sustain itself in any medium, hold on to flavor, and deliver it in the most delightful texture imaginable for the accompanying flavors.

Let’s be really honest though. There’s something about chewing that is nice when you’re in the mood. It’s a craving that cannot be satisfied by anything else. We wanted to chew on something so bad that we invented chewing gum, and we don’t even eat the damn stuff! (I mean, I guess you could, but it’s not my recommendation.) Chewing itself is simply a part of the act of eating. Maybe it’s just the inherent element of enjoying that nice resistance that makes us come back for more. It’s so funny to me when I look at it from that angle. It’s literally the LABOR of chewing that is enjoyable. It’s one of the few times I feel like I can say that people actually enjoy doing work for once. But of course, the rather instant gratification of this type of work is eating something delicious.

As a matter of fact, chewy foods are so closely connected to the act of chewing, that there is an actual way to measure how chewy a food is. This measurement is determined by the metrics of chew count in relation to chew rate. How many times did you chew, and how much resistance was involved in the speed of that chew? I’d venture to say that there’s a threshold beyond which chewiness shouldn’t go. It’s not like the more chews per minute, the better the food. Of course, as the number of chews increases, some of our homies are gonna start jumping off the bandwagon of enjoyment. Some will stay, but the longer we chew, the less exciting it becomes. The goal is to find a way to stay within that perfect chew amount window to make it really exciting for as many people as possible.

CHEWS

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why is chew important?

Here’s why chew might be one of the most important textures of all time. Out of all the different textures, chew forces you to take your time to taste what you’re eating more than any texture in this entire book. Aside from the flavors literally sitting on your taste buds for a much longer period of time, it sort of gives you the opportunity to pause and really think about the flavors you’re enjoying. It might even give you the opportunity to discover or enjoy other textures in the meal you’re eating. It’s literally lending a helping hand to all the other textures around it. (How kind of chew to do that for everybody. I always knew chew was a real one.) It also forces you to experience things the right way. I suppose you could swallow early (keep your mind out of the gutter), but most of the time you’re going to push that thought away.

Could chewy foods help people stay in good shape? Honestly, I put this prompt in here as a joke and planned to delete it from the book, except there is a little bit of truth to it. At the end of the day, taking longer to eat something because it’s chewy can slow down your eating. Which, in turn, can help you feel more full and more satisfied after resting. Call me crazy, but yes, I’m absolutely telling you that taking a bit more time to eat something can make all facets of the experience affect you in a significant way.

That being said, I’m a big fan of forcing people to do things the right way. I’m about to call people out, so you’ve been warned. Most people are far too impatient to sit around and really enjoy the taste of a nice meal. Frankly, it’s frustrating. I don’t care if you are a food person or not; it just bothers me that people are not getting the proper experience out of a dish or meal. And if chew is going to lead you to the promised land of flavor and texture, then that makes me happy. Obviously, if you picked up this book you almost definitely have a special place in your heart for great food. But even if you don’t care about food in that way, you can and most likely do care about living a life full of enjoyable moments. And a big quadrant of that experience is food. I’m not trying to get overly poetic here by any means. What I’m saying is that most people don’t have the patience to really do something properly enough to actually enjoy it. Call it some sort of parallel with why people often have a very difficult time making good changes for their lives and seeking their desires and dreams simply because they don’t have the patience required to sort that out. So in a way, maybe a great bowl of some nice, luxurious, chewy dan dan noodles will help lead you to a much happier and more prosperous life.

CHEWY TEXTURE = SLOWER EATING, WHICH LEAVES YOU MORE FULL AND SATISFIED.

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how to add chew

Chew is kind of a weird one for many people. It’s difficult to really pinpoint where you can use chew in your food if you don’t come from a culture that pays much attention to it. (A lot of cultures don’t.)

Chew is oftentimes seen as an afterthought—until it’s suddenly not there. You can’t have a great bowl of rice without some nice chew or enjoy the best pasta without the elasticity of a beautiful al dente texture.

Think about why you love certain nostalgic foods like pasta, rice, breads, marshmallows, and pizza, and you’ll begin to see that chew is an essential element to your enjoyment.

Here are some ways to add more chewy goodness to different dishes:

Soups—add noodles, steamed rice, or pasta

Broths—serve with dense meats, steamed rice, pasta, or noodles

Large amounts of sauce—add mochi or steamed rice

Beverages—add boba pearls or gummy bears

Grilled or roasted vegetables—serve with grilled halloumi, grilled polenta, couscous, or rice

Cheese boards—pair with chewy dried fruits

Tacos—add chewy melted cheeses (The chew would come from ensuring there is a LOT of cheese for enjoyment.)

Hummus—spread on chewy breads like pita or try it on a bagel

Cheese sauces—serve with chewy pretzel breads

Shakshuka—serve with crusty, chewy breads for dipping

Pad Thai—pair with extra-firm tofu

Peking duck—pair with steamed bao buns

Beef bourguignon—add some pillowy, chewy gnocchi

The chew spectrum

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new york bagels

In my opinion, the chew of a good bagel embodies this entire chapter. If you don’t live in New York, this bagel will get you as close to it as possible.

prep time

1 hour 20 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

25 minutes

yield

8 bagels

Dough:

4 cups (600g) bread flour

1 tbsp (13g) sugar

1 tbsp (20g) fine sea salt

1 tsp (1g) diastatic malt powder (optional)

1¹/₂ cups (375ml) water, heated to 90°F (30°C)

1 tsp (3g) instant yeast

1 tbsp (15ml) vegetable oil

Cornmeal, for dusting

Everything bagel seasoning:

3 tbsp (27g) sesame seeds

2 tbsp (20g) poppy seeds

2 tbsp (20g) onion flakes

1 tbsp (10g) minced dried garlic

1 tbsp (15g) flaky salt

Boiling:

1¹/₂ tbsp (23ml) barley malt syrup

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt

1¹/₂ tsp (6g) food-grade lye (see Notes)

1 To make the dough, to the bowl of a stand mixer, add the bread flour, sugar, fine sea salt, and diastatic malt powder (if using). Whisk until combined.

2 To a medium bowl, add the lukewarm water. Whisk in the yeast until dissolved and then whisk in the vegetable oil.

3 Attach the dough hook to the mixer. Turn the mixer on medium-low. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, and mix for 8 to 10 minutes or until the dough is completely smooth. (You can also do this by hand; it might just take a few minutes longer.) Cover the dough with plastic wrap, and set it aside to rest for 15 minutes.

4 Divide the rested dough into 8 pieces, each weighing about 4¹/₂ ounces (128g). Shape each piece into a ball by rolling it on the countertop in a circular motion, using slight pressure and keeping the dough in constant contact with the work surface. Cover the balls with greased plastic wrap, and let them rest for 12 minutes.

5 Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray and then sprinkle cornmeal over the entire surface. Shape the bagels by pinching a hole in the center of each ball with your index finger and thumb and then gently form the balls into bagels by stretching the hole to about 2 inches (5cm) wide. (An easy way to do this is to put both of your index fingers through the hole and spin your fingers around each other in a winding motion.) Place the stretched bagel on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough balls.

6 Lightly spray the tops of the bagels with cooking spray and then cover the baking sheet tightly with greased plastic wrap. (Make it as airtight as you can without squishing the bagels.) Place in the refrigerator to proof overnight.

7 While the bagels are proofing, make the everything bagel seasoning by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until evenly incorporated. Set aside.

8 When the proofing time is complete, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray and lightly coat with cornmeal, and line another with parchment paper. Set aside.

9 To a wide, shallow, heavy-bottomed pot, add 3¹/₂ quarts (3.3 liters) water (see Notes), the barley malt syrup, salt, and lye. Place over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Wearing food-safe gloves, add the bagels to the water in batches to avoid overcrowding. Boil for 30 seconds, and then flip and boil for 30 more seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bagels to the baking sheet that has been sprayed with cooking spray to drain. If you’re topping your bagels with anything, such as the everything bagel seasoning, do so immediately so it sticks to the still-tacky surface of the bagels.

10 Transfer the bagels to the parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes or until they turn a rich brown. Transfer the bagels to a wire rack to cool completely and enjoy! Although these bagels are best enjoyed the same day they’re baked, I’d recommend freezing any leftovers and thawing them as needed.

NOTES: Please be aware that it is completely safe to use lye to bake with, as we did with pretzels in my previous book. In short, lye is something that’s been traditionally used in baking for generations. We are using it in very small quantities in this recipe, and the baking process renders any concerning traits into something that’s completely safe to eat. Please just handle it with care, and avoid getting it on your skin when using it.

Now, on the water choice. Sure, you could totally ship in New York water, and you’d be able to say that you truly made “New York bagels,” but frankly, you should try them like this and tell me if it needs the water or not. I know the New Yorkers are probably shaking their heads right now…all I gotta say is that there are some bagel spots in LA that sure do rival those New York bagel spots…anyway, love you so much.

new york bagels

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chinese sticky rice

If you know how to make Thai sticky rice, then this shouldn’t be terribly far away from that for you. The biggest benefit to this rice is all the fixings that come inside. It’s salty and meaty, but above all else, it’s luxuriously chewy.

prep time

2 hours, plus overnight

cook time

1 hour 40 minutes

yield

10 servings

Rice:

4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-in (2.5cm) cubes

4 cups (740g) sticky (glutinous) rice

3 tbsp (45ml) vegetable oil

4 cups (400g) diced cremini mushrooms

Kosher salt, to taste

1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) dark soy sauce

5 whole lotus leaves, soaked in warm water for 1 hour

Chili oil, for serving (optional)

Marinade:

3 tbsp (45ml) regular soy sauce

Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

2 tbsp (30ml) oyster sauce

1 tsp (2g) five-spice powder

¹/₂-in (1.3cm) knob of ginger, grated

1 tsp (3g) cornstarch

1¹/₂ tbsp (23ml) Shaoxing wine

1 In a medium bowl, stir together the marinade ingredients. Add the chicken, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

2 When you’re ready to cook, place the sticky rice in a large bowl and add enough water to cover. Soak for 2 hours and then drain the rice.

3 Preheat a large wok over high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to pool at the bottom. When the oil is hot, add the marinated chicken and stir-fry until the chicken is cooked all the way through and nicely browned. Transfer the chicken to a plate, and set aside.

4 Add additional oil to the wok if needed, and add the cremini mushrooms. Season lightly with kosher salt, to taste, and stir-fry until the mushrooms have softened and their moisture has evaporated.

5 Add the green onions, and cook for 30 to 40 seconds or until the onions are just barely softened, tossing frequently.

6 Return the chicken to the vegetable mixture, toss, and then stir in the rice and dark soy sauce.

7 Oil a rehydrated lotus leaf, trim off the stems, and cut in half. Add slightly less than 1 cup (224g) of the rice mixture to the center of each leaf half, tightly wrap, and tie together with kitchen twine. Repeat with the remaining rice and lotus leaves.

8 Place the stuffed lotus bundles in a steamer basket that’s over a pot filled with a shallow amount of water (the water should not touch the steamer basket), cover, and steam for 90 minutes. (As your rice is cooking, ensure you have enough water to continue the steam for the entire 90 minutes.)

9 Unwrap and serve hot with chili oil (if using) drizzled over the top.

chinese sticky rice

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carbonara tteokbokki

I was originally just going to put a traditional carbonara here. Then I thought about it more and more—and there are chewier things outside of pasta. So the idea of making this recipe came to mind, and adapting tteokbokki into carbonara seemed like Italian sacrilege in the best way possible. It turns out, I didn’t regret it.

prep time

12 minutes

cook time

17 minutes

yield

2 servings

12oz (340g) uncooked tteokbokki (Korean rice cakes)

4 egg yolks

1¹/₂ cups (135g) freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

¹/₂ cup (45g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving

Kosher salt, to taste

5oz (142g) guanciale, diced into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 Soak the tteokbokki in warm water for 10 minutes.

2 While the tteokbokki are soaking, combine the egg yolks, Pecorino Romano cheese, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in a medium bowl. Season lightly with kosher salt and then stir to combine.

3 Add the guanciale to a 12-inch (30.5cm) saucepan set over medium-low heat. Cook for about 5 minutes or until the guanciale has started to render its fat and is getting brown and crispy, stirring often. Add the garlic, and sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat.

4 Fill a medium pot with water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Season the water generously with kosher salt. Add the tteokbokki. Boil for 5 minutes or until the tteokbokki are fully cooked.

5 Add ¹/₃ cup (78ml) of the cooking liquid from the tteokbokki pot to the guanciale pan. Place the pan over medium heat. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the guanciale pan to remove any stuck bits from the bottom. Bring to a boil.

6 Use a slotted spoon to add the tteokbokki to the pan. When the liquid is reduced by about three-fourths, turn off the heat and, while quickly shaking and tossing the pan, add the cheese mixture. Toss constantly and vigorously to emulsify. When you get a smooth, creamy, glossy sauce, it’s done. If it’s too thick, add additional tteokbokki water, 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, until it’s loosened to your desired consistency. Add additional salt to taste if needed.

7 Serve with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano grated over the top. Enjoy immediately.

carbonara tteokbokki

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pastrami bacon

You like bacon? Great. You like pastrami? Awesome. Now you can have both at once.

prep time

8 days, plus 15 minutes

cook time

about 5 hours

yield

about 48 thick-cut slices

¹/₂ tsp (2g) mustard seeds

2 tsp (6g) coriander seeds

2 tsp (6g) whole black peppercorns

2¹/₂ tbsp (45g) kosher salt

2¹/₂ tbsp (35g) dark brown sugar

1 tsp (5g) pink curing salt (Insta Cure #1 recommended)

4¹/₂ lb (2kg) pork belly, skin removed

1 tsp (3g) freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp (3g) paprika

1 tsp (3g) ground coriander

¹/₂ tsp (1g) garlic powder

¹/₂ tsp (2g) onion powder

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground mustard

1 Toast the mustard seeds, coriander seeds, and black peppercorns in a pan over medium heat, tossing often, for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Allow to cool completely, and then blend in a blender or spice grinder until as fine as possible.

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the toasted spices, kosher salt, brown sugar, and pink curing salt until thoroughly combined. Season the pork belly with all the salt mixture. Place the seasoned pork belly in a large 2-gallon (7.6-liter) resealable bag, close the bag, and refrigerate. Cure the pork belly in the fridge for 7 days, flipping the bag halfway through the curing period.

3 When the curing time is complete, preheat the smoker to 250°F (120°C). Remove the pork belly from the bag and rinse to remove the salt mixture. Pat completely dry with paper towels.

4 In a medium bowl, whisk together the black pepper, paprika, ground coriander, garlic powder, onion powder, and ground mustard until thoroughly combined. Season the pork belly with the spice mixture by pressing it into the pork to help it adhere.

5 Place the pork belly in the preheated smoker. Smoke for 5 hours, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C). Remove from the smoker and set it aside to cool completely.

6 When cool, wrap the pork belly in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. When completely chilled, slice the bacon to your desired thickness and cook as you would any other slice of bacon.

7 To store, vacuum seal or seal in a plastic bag. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze indefinitely.

pastrami bacon

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brazilian churrasco-style picanha

Brazilian steakhouses are expensive. All that cost is just for a couple slices of beef that were seasoned with a little bit of salt and pepper—and maybe something a little extra. Trust me, you’ve got this.

prep time

15 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

30 minutes

yield

6–8 servings

8 garlic cloves

¹/₂ cup (125ml) vegetable oil

2¹/₂ tbsp (45g) kosher salt

1 tbsp (4g) freshly ground black pepper

3–4 lb (1.4–1.8kg) whole picanha (also called top sirloin cap, rump cover, or rump cap)

1 In a small pot, combine the garlic cloves and vegetable oil. Set the pot over medium heat, and cook until the garlic is soft and golden brown. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature. When cool, add the oil and garlic to a blender, along with the kosher salt and black pepper. Blend until smooth.

2 Place the picanha on a cutting board with the meat side down and the fat cap side up. Cut the picanha into 1¹/₂-inch-thick (3.8cm) steaks. (Do not trim the fat cap.) Rub the picanha with the garlic sauce and then place it in a plastic bag. Seal the bag, and place the picanha in the fridge to marinate overnight. 

3 When you’re ready to cook, preheat a charcoal or propane grill to medium-high heat on one side and low heat on the other. 

4 Skewer the picanha onto large, stainless-steel skewers by folding the steaks into C shapes so one side has the fat cap facing out and the two ends of the steak meet on the opposite side. Place the largest pieces of picanha on one end of the skewer and the smaller pieces at the opposite end. (I typically like to have 2 to 3 steaks per skewer.) Repeat with the remaining steaks. Pat the steaks dry with a paper towel.

5 If the skewers are long enough, place the ends of the skewers on the sides of the grill so the steaks are positioned above the grates. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, with the larger pieces grilled at medium-high heat, and the smaller pieces at low heat, rotating the skewers every 5 minutes, until the meat is beautifully and deeply browned and reaches an internal temperature of 130°F (55°C). (Alternatively, if the skewers are not long enough to rest on the sides of the grill, feel free to just grill them directly on the grates. It’s less traditional cooking them on the grates, but you should work with what you’ve got.) Repeat with the remaining skewers.

6 When the steaks have achieved the proper internal temperature, place them on a cutting board and allow to rest for 7 minutes. To serve, simply carve fresh from the skewers and onto plates. Serve with sides of your choice.

brazilian churrasco-style picanha

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homemade roast beef

Roast beef is the one thing I think everyone should try making at home at least once because then you’ll see it’s just nicely roasted leftover meat that’s sliced very thinly. Yep, that’s it. Now you have the power.

prep time

48 hours

cook time

1 hour

yield

4–5 servings

3–3¹/₂ lb (1.4–1.6kg) top sirloin roast (see Note)

2 tbsp (30g) kosher salt, plus more to season the roast

3¹/₂ tbsp (40g) tallow (beef fat), softened

1 tbsp (15g) Dijon mustard

2¹/₂ tsp (6g) freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 tbsp (3g) finely chopped rosemary

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tbsp (7g) smoked paprika

1 tsp (3g) cayenne

1 tsp (4g) onion powder

1 Season the sirloin roast generously with kosher salt. Place on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Refrigerate uncovered overnight.

2 When it’s roasting day, preheat the oven to the maximum temperature, ideally 500°F (260°C).

3 In a small bowl, whisk together the 2 tablespoons (30g) of kosher salt, tallow, Dijon mustard, black pepper, rosemary, garlic, smoked paprika, cayenne, and onion powder until thoroughly combined. Rub the mixture over the entire surface of the roast to ensure it’s coated from edge to edge.

4 Line the same baking sheet with foil. Place the wire rack on top of the foil, and then place the roast on the rack.

5 When the oven is hot, place the roast in the oven for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, reduce the temperature to 300°F (150°C) and roast for 35 to 45 minutes or until the internal temperature reads 132°F (55°C) on a meat thermometer. Remove the roast from the oven, and let it cool to room temperature. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

6 Remove the beef from the fridge and slice while it’s cold. A spinning deli meat slicer is going to do the best job, but if you don’t have one, just use a very large and sharp knife to slice the beef as thinly as physically possible.

7 Enjoy just like you would a very nice deli roast beef—but better.

NOTE: Ideally, you’ll want to find a sirloin roast with the highest amount of fat marbling available. The best way to do that is to ensure, at minimum, the beef is prime grade. Even a nice Australian Wagyu will do.

homemade roast beef

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fat-ass pork chop

I mean, this is exactly what it’s supposed to be: a fat-ass pork chop. And the flavor might be even bigger than its fat ass.

prep time

8 hours 20 minutes to overnight

cook time

2 hours

yield

2 servings

2 double-cut bone-in pork chops (28–32 ounces [800–900g] each)

Spicy chili crisp butter:

1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, softened

3¹/₂ tbsp (53g) spicy chili crisp

3 garlic cloves, finely grated

1 tbsp (20g) miso paste

2 green onions, very thinly sliced

Brine:

3 qt (2.8 liters) cold water

³/₄ cup (220g) kosher salt

1¹/₂ cups (315g) light brown sugar

1 tbsp (10g) whole black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

1 tbsp (5g) coriander seeds

1 tbsp (5g) fennel seeds

JW chop seasoning:

1 tbsp (16g) kosher salt

2 tsp (10g) sugar

1 tbsp (4g) dried sage

1 tsp (2g) fennel powder

1 tbsp (10g) smoked paprika

2 tsp (6g) freshly ground black pepper

¹/₂ tsp (2g) MSG (optional)

1 Make the spicy chili crisp butter by combining all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Use a handheld mixer to beat the ingredients until thoroughly combined and homogeneous.

2 Place the butter in the center of a 10-inch-long (25cm) sheet of plastic wrap. Roll the plastic wrap over the butter to completely encase it. Roll the butter into a log while keeping both open ends pinched so it generates tension and eventually becomes a nice, even, cylindrical log. Refrigerate until solid, ideally overnight.

3 Make the brine by combining all the ingredients in a large pot over medium heat. Heat until the sugar and kosher salt are completely dissolved, stirring constantly. Allow to cool completely. Submerge the pork chops in the cooled brine, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

4 When you’re ready to cook, preheat a smoker to 250°F (120°C) or preheat the oven to the minimum temperature.

5 In a small bowl, whisk together the ingredients for the JW chop seasoning, until combined. Remove the pork chops from the brine, pat completely dry with paper towels, and season with the chop seasoning.

6 Add the chops to the smoker, or set them on a baking sheet lined with foil and place them in the oven. Smoke or cook the chops for 1¹/₂ to 2 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 140°F (60°C). Remove from the smoker or oven, loosely tent with foil, and allow to rest for 10 minutes.

7 While the chops are resting, remove the butter from the fridge and slice into ¹/₄-inch-thick (0.7cm) coins.

8 Preheat a grill or a large skillet over medium-high heat. (If you’re using a skillet, you’ll want to add enough oil to the pan to coat the bottom.) When your grill or pan is hot, add the pork chops and sear for 2 minutes per side and then for 2 minutes on the edges to get a nice, rich, deep-brown color on all sides.

9 Serve the chops immediately with multiple coins of the spicy chili crisp butter placed on top. Enjoy!

fat-ass pork chop

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jjolmyeon

These noodles are touted specifically for their chewiness, but as with all textures in this book, it’s not only the chew that makes the experience—it’s the way the chew affects the overall experience of all the textures working in unison. A textural wonderland, if you will.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

16 minutes

yield

2 servings

Sauce:

1 tbsp (20g) gochugaru

3¹/₂ tbsp (70g) gochujang

2 tbsp (25g) sugar

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) distilled white vinegar

4 garlic cloves, finely minced

2 tsp (10ml) toasted sesame oil

Noodles:

1¹/₂ tsp (9g) kosher salt, or to taste

6oz (170g) soybean sprouts

1 lb (455g) jjolmyeon noodles

1 large egg

3 green cabbage leaves, very thinly sliced

1–2 large carrots, finely julienned

¹/₂ seedless cucumber, finely julienned

1 green onion, thinly sliced

2 tsp (6g) toasted sesame seeds

1 sheet of nori, cut into thin threads

Kosher salt, to taste

1 Make the sauce by combining all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Mix until homogeneous. Set aside.

2 Add 2 cups (500ml) water and the kosher salt to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the soybean sprouts, and boil for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain completely in a colander. (The boiling liquid from this process is often served as soup on the side with jjolmyeon. If you’d like to do this, just remove the sprouts with a slotted spoon, place them in a colander to drain, and reserve the boiling liquid.)

3 Fill a 6-quart (5.7-liter) pot with 3 quarts (2.85 liters) of water. Salt the water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the jjolmyeon noodles, and cook for 5 minutes or until the noodles are chewy but properly softened, stirring occasionally. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse thoroughly with cold water to stop the cooking process. Set aside.

4 Fill a small bowl with ice water. Fill a 2- to 3-quart (1.9- to 2.8-liter) pot with enough water to cover an egg. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the egg. (While you’re at it, you can cook multiple eggs if you want to save some in the fridge for other dishes.) Cook for 6 minutes and then use a slotted spoon to transfer the egg to the ice water bath. Cool until warm and then carefully peel the egg under running water.

5 Add the noodles, sprouts, two-thirds of the cabbage, two-thirds of the carrots, and two-thirds of the cucumber to a large bowl. Add all the sauce, and toss until the ingredients are completely coated and thoroughly incorporated. Taste the noodles and add salt if needed.

6 To serve, divide the mixture between two bowls. Top with the remaining cabbage, carrots, and cucumber. Garnish with the green onion, sesame seeds, and nori. Slice the egg in half lengthwise, and top each serving with half an egg.

jjolmyeon

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brown sugar boba tea

I mean, they literally figured out how to make a drink chewy. Of course it’s in this chapter. Thank you, Taiwan, for this one.

prep time

30 minutes

cook time

1 hour 15 minutes

yield

4 servings

Boba pearls:

¹/₃ cup (85ml) water

¹/₃ cup (65g) packed light brown sugar

1 cup (160g) tapioca starch, plus more for dusting

Brown sugar syrup:

1¹/₄ cups (230g) light brown sugar

6¹/₂ tbsp (98ml) water

1 tbsp (21g) molasses

Milk tea:

4 cups (1 liter) whole milk

3 tbsp (15g) loose-leaf black tea

To make the boba pearls:

1 In a small saucepan, combine the water and brown sugar. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and then reduce the heat to low. Whisk in ¹/₂ cup (80g) tapioca starch, whisking for 6 to 8 seconds, and then turn off the heat and whisk in the remaining ¹/₂ cup (80g) tapioca starch. Switch to a spoon and continue to mix until it forms a dough. Dump out the dough onto a work surface lightly dusted with tapioca starch. Knead the dough for 2 minutes, or until it’s nice and smooth.

2 Working quickly, divide the dough into 4 equal pieces using a knife or bench scraper. Roll each of the pieces into a long rod that’s ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm) thick. Cut the rods into ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm) cubes. Roll the cubes into nice, round balls and then transfer them to a bowl filled with extra tapioca starch. Toss to coat.

3 When all the balls are ready, give them one more good toss in the starch to coat fully and then gently shake them in a fine-mesh sieve to remove the excess starch. Set aside to cool.

4 When the pearls have cooled completely, transfer them to an airtight container. Store in the fridge for a few days, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.

To make the brown sugar syrup:

1 Combine the water and brown sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble, and then increase the heat to medium-high.

2 When the syrup has reduced and a few large bubbles begin to form, check the thickness by spooning a small dot onto a chilled plate. Let it cool on the plate for 15 to 20 seconds, and then check it with your fingers. When the mixture appears syrupy, stir in the molasses.

To make the milk tea:

1 To prepare the pearls for use, fill a medium pot with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pearls, and boil for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, turn off the heat and allow the pearls to rest in the water for 25 minutes.

2 Add the milk to a medium saucepan over medium heat. Heat until the milk reaches 165°F (75°C) and then immediately remove the pan from the heat. Mix in the black tea. Steep for 4 to 8 minutes, depending on your desired level of tea strength.

3 Strain the tea through a fine-mesh strainer and into a medium bowl. Cool the tea either by setting the bowl over another bowl filled with iced water while constantly stirring in the tea or by placing the bowl in the refrigerator.

4 To serve, fill a glass with the desired amount of boba pearls and then add a couple spoonfuls of the brown sugar syrup. Add ice, and pour the cooled milk tea over the ice. Taste and add more brown sugar syrup if needed until the desired sweetness is achieved. Serve with an extra-thick boba straw.

brown sugar boba tea

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giant baseball cookies

These cookies are literally the size of a baseball; they’re not meant to be eaten at a baseball game. But there’s nothing stopping you from doing that if you want to. You do you.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

10–12 minutes

yield

4 cookies

1¹/₂ cups (335g) unsalted butter, slightly softened

1 cup (185g) light brown sugar

³/₄ cup (150g) granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 egg yolk

1¹/₂ cups (195g) cake flour

2 cups (300g) all-purpose flour

1 tbsp (10g) cornstarch

³/₄ tsp (4g) baking soda

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt

3 cups (450g) roughly chopped chocolate (see Note)

2 cups (240g) roughly chopped pecans

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly coat with cooking spray.

2 In a large bowl, combine the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar. Use a handheld mixer to combine the ingredients for 2 to 3 minutes, or until creamy. One at a time, beat in the eggs and then the egg yolk, beating well after each addition.

3 In a separate large bowl, whisk together the cake flour, all-purpose flour, cornstarch, baking soda, and fine sea salt until thoroughly combined. Stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture until just combined and then fold in the chocolate and pecans.

4 Divide the dough into 4 evenly sized pieces and then shape the pieces into balls that are about 7 to 8 ounces (200 to 230g) each. (Yeah, they’re big.) Evenly space 4 cookie balls on the two baking sheets. Bake for 9 to 12 minutes or until golden brown on top and just set. Remove from the oven, and set aside to rest for 10 minutes. Enjoy!

NOTE: When choosing chocolate for this recipe, I like to use a 50/50 blend of dark chocolate and semisweet or milk chocolate. That way you get the best of both worlds. Just be sure to choose the highest-quality chocolate bars you can afford with the sweetness levels you prefer.

giant baseball cookies

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chewy fudge brownies

Whatever you do, take the corner pieces for yourself. Save none for anyone else.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

25–30 minutes

yield

9 brownies

1 cup (200g) granulated sugar

¹/₄ cup (50g) light brown sugar

6¹/₂ tbsp (92g) unsalted butter, melted

2 large eggs

1 egg yolk

2 tsp (10ml) pure vanilla extract

¹/₄ cup (60ml) vegetable oil

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

¹/₈ tsp (1g) baking soda

1¹/₄ tbsp (12g) cornstarch

¹/₂ cup (60g) all-purpose flour

³/₄ cup (75g) unsweetened cocoa powder

4oz (115g) semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly coat an 8- × 8-inch (20.5 × 20.5cm) baking pan with cooking spray. Optionally, line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper if the pan isn’t nonstick.

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, brown sugar, and melted butter until combined. Add the eggs, egg yolk, vanilla extract, and vegetable oil. Whisk until thoroughly combined.

3 Stir in the fine sea salt, baking soda, and cornstarch. Add the all-purpose flour and cocoa powder, and stir until thoroughly combined and homogeneous. Fold in the chocolate until evenly distributed.

4 Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, and use a spatula to spread the mixture evenly to the edges of the pan. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the brownies are cooked through and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

5 Remove the brownies from the oven, and set aside to cool completely before cutting and serving.

chewy fudge brownies

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smoked salted caramel candies

You don’t have to take the extra step of smoking these candies—that’s just if you’re feeling fancy—but these are some of the easiest caramels you’ll ever make, so I’ll bet you can do it.

prep time

about 4 hours

cook time

1 hour

yield

about 40 caramels

6 tbsp (84g) unsalted butter

¹/₂ cup (125ml) heavy whipping cream

3¹/₂ tbsp (50ml) water

¹/₂ tsp (3g) vanilla bean paste, or ¹/₂ tsp (3ml) pure vanilla extract

¹/₄ cup (60ml) light corn syrup

1 cup (200g) sugar

¹/₄ tsp (1g) fine sea salt

Flaky salt, for topping

1 Lightly coat a 9- × 5-inch (23 × 13cm) loaf pan with cooking spray. Cut a piece of parchment paper large enough to line the bottom of the pan and wide enough to overhang the long sides of the pan.

2 Add the butter and heavy whipping cream to a small saucepan set over low heat. Heat just until the butter is melted. Set aside.

3 Add the water, vanilla bean paste (or vanilla extract), corn syrup, sugar, and fine sea salt to a medium saucepan. Stir to combine and then place a candy thermometer in the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and then reduce the heat to medium. (Do not stir the syrup at this point.)

4 When the mixture reaches 320°F (160°C), slowly add the cream mixture to the pan while constantly stirring. Continue cooking and stirring until the temperature comes back up to 240°F (115°C). Remove the mixture from the heat, and pour it into the prepared loaf pan.

5 Let the mixture cool for 15 minutes and then sprinkle the flaky salt over the top. Allow to cool at room temperature for 3¹/₂ hours more or until the caramels are firm enough to cut.

6 While the caramels are cooling, set up a cold smoker or a smoking gun with wood chips of your choice. Cover the caramels with foil, and insert the cold smoker tube into the foil. Seal the foil, fill the loaf pan with smoke, and let the candies sit for 15 minutes. Repeat the process one more time before uncovering the caramels and allowing them to cool completely.

7 Cut the cooled caramels into bite-sized squares, rectangles, logs, circles—hell, you can cut them into stars for all I care. The main thing is that you enjoy them. Be sure to wrap the caramels in wax paper after cutting them so they don’t stick to each other when stored. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 to 4 days.

smoked salted caramel candies

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cortado ice cream sandwiches

Think of drinking a cappuccino or a cortado, and then transforming that into an ice cream sandwich. This is what you would end up with. Now, if you really want to be wild, you can replace these cookies with the giant baseball cookies, but don’t get mad at me if the police get called on you.

prep time

55 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

20 sandwiches

Cortado ice cream:

1¹/₄ cups (296ml) whole milk

2 cups (500ml) heavy whipping cream

5 egg yolks

¹/₂ tsp (3g) kosher salt

1¹/₄ cups (250g) sugar

3 tbsp (18g) coarsely ground dark-roasted coffee beans

1 tsp (5ml) pure vanilla extract

Cookies:

1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, softened

1¹/₄ cups (250g) sugar

2 large eggs

1 egg yolk

2¹/₂ tsp (13ml) pure vanilla extract

3¹/₄ cups (420g) all-purpose flour

1 tsp (5g) baking soda

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) cream of tartar

Cinnamon sugar (for rolling):

¹/₂ cup (100g) sugar

1 tbsp (8g) ground cinnamon

For the cortado ice cream:

1 Fill a large bowl with ice water. Place a second bowl inside the first, ensuring the water doesn’t spill over into the smaller bowl. Place a fine-mesh sieve inside the smaller bowl. Set aside.

2 Combine the milk and 1 cup (237ml) heavy whipping cream in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally.

3 While the milk mixture is heating, whisk together the egg yolks, kosher salt, and sugar in a medium heatproof bowl until combined.

4 When the milk mixture is steamy hot but not boiling, add about ¹/₄ cup (60ml) of the hot milk mixture to the egg yolk mixture. Whisk until combined. Repeat 1 to 2 more times or until the egg yolk mixture is hot.

5 Add all the hot egg yolk mixture to the saucepan containing the steamy milk and cream. Add the coarsely ground coffee. Continuously stir over medium-low heat, making sure the mixture doesn’t come to a boil or even a simmer. You just want to maintain a steamy heat while constantly stirring for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon.

6 Strain the custard through the fine-mesh sieve and into the smaller bowl placed over the larger bowl of ice water. Remove the sieve, and stir for about 5 minutes, or until the mixture is completely chilled.

7 Add the remaining 1 cup (237ml) heavy whipping cream and the vanilla extract. Stir until combined. Add the chilled mixture to an ice cream machine, and spin according to the manufacturer’s directions. When it’s finished spinning, store the ice cream in an airtight container in the freezer until ready to use.

For the cookies:

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2 In a medium bowl, use a handheld mixer to cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time, followed by the egg yolk and vanilla extract.

3 In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, baking soda, fine sea salt, and cream of tartar until combined. Add the flour mixture to the creamed butter mixture in three batches, folding and incorporating in between each addition, until all the flour mixture has been incorporated and you have a smooth dough.

4 In a small bowl, make the cinnamon sugar by whisking together the sugar and cinnamon until evenly incorporated.

5 Roll the cookie dough into 1-inch (2.5cm) balls. Roll the balls in the cinnamon sugar mixture and then place the balls on the prepared baking sheets, allowing a minimum of 1¹/₂ inches (3.8cm) of space between each cookie. Bake for 9 to 11 minutes or until the cookies are just set. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

To assemble the sandwiches:

1 Ensure the ice cream is solid enough to scoop. Use an ice cream scoop to get a nice, large, round ball of the ice cream and place it on the underside of a cooled cookie. Top with another cookie, with its underside facing down. Squeeze the sandwich together.

2 Either eat the sandwich right away or repeat the process until you’ve used all the ice cream. Wrap each cookie sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and store in the freezer for up to 1 month or until you get the hankering for an incredible, almost horchata latte–like cookie sandwich experience.

cortado ice cream sandwiches

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aerated

Aerated | CONTENTS

introduction to aerated

ciabatta

extra-tall frittata

cheese foam

51-hour focaccia

dutch baby

cajun puffed beef tendons

spicy curry puffed chickpeas

puffed rice crackers

puffed potatoes

ginger beer

sfogliatelle

lighter-than-air glazed donuts

bourbon challah french toast casserole

g AERATED g CONTENTS

what exactly is air?

I’m not trying to sound overly poetic or get on my high horse about this, but air often is used to imply nothingness or the lack of something. Air is invisible; it’s tasteless; it’s intangible, in a way. When something vanishes, it “disappears into thin air.” It’s like as soon as it’s just air that is present, there ain’t nothing there, and that’s the end of the story. Yet ironically, “into thin air” almost implies that air fills the void that was once occupied by the item that disappeared. It’s kind of like water. If there’s a rock in a ravine blocking the water, as soon as it’s removed, the water flows through. That scenario is closer to how I think of air. Call it a glass-half-full approach. I’m sure there’s a scientist reading this anecdote right now thinking: Wow, Josh’s intelligence level isn’t exactly what I thought it was. I’m not here to make my scientific statement; instead, I want to reflect on the experience and perception of air as a typical person.

In our day-to-day lives, we take air for granted, despite its necessity for maintaining life, because it doesn’t have much of an impact on us unless it’s a really windy day and maybe you’re not properly dressed for the occasion. I get it. We’re busy, and our focus is always on what’s next. What we don’t realize, though, is that the existence of air deserves more than a second thought. Without the incorporation of air in cooking and baking, some of the world’s most beloved foods simply would not exist or they would really f—ing suck to eat. And that is why air is much more than something that fills an empty room or the oxygen we breathe. It is an utter necessity in creating things like breads, cakes, sauces, crusts, and so on.

NOT IN REFERENCE TO A SCARY MOVIE

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what is aeration?

I would consider any food or liquid that has somehow been infused with air as aerated. Yeah, it’s literally that straightforward. The difference between various types of aerated food is how the air got there in the first place. (Sure, you might be able to incorporate air by mouth-breathing over an emulsified sauce, but there are more effective methods out there.) The most obvious way to incorporate air into something is to whisk it vigorously, which is the same method you would use to create things like whipped cream or a meringue. The heat and pressurized steam from a steam wand on an espresso machine are essentially aerating milk to create the perfect microfoam that clings to your lips after a sip from a great cappuccino. But there are also ways to incorporate air through the release of gases within the food you’re making. Think of a dough without yeast. If you were to bake that bad boy, what you’d end up with is something dense and hard enough to use as a lethal weapon. Not good. But if you incorporate yeast, those tiny single-cell organisms go to work and produce a ton of gas to create little air pockets throughout the dough during the rising and baking process. That’s not just what gives a bread its rise, but what helps differentiate different kinds of breads. An incredible ciabatta simply is not ciabatta without those unbelievable large holes that are dispersed throughout the finished product. It’s the aeration of that final product that makes it great. Otherwise, you go straight back to baked dough used as a potentially lethal weapon.

So we’re preventing a potential rise (no pun intended) of bread-related crimes while simultaneously making something. It’s a win-win. The point is that it gives you a sliding scale to play with. Denseness is important, but as you incorporate more and more air, and that air takes shape inside a finished product, you are able to control how light or how dense of a bite someone is going to have. There are entire restaurants and businesses that have differentiated themselves based on just this one element: Oh, their biscuits are the fluffiest in the entire city! If you’ve ever heard that…it’s thanks to their approach to aeration.

THANK YOU, AIR.

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how does aeration impact texture?

Aeration tends to encompass a lot of different textures, specifically in the world of crunch. I could make a fancy reference to illustrate this point, but instead I’d like to make one that is a bit more American, if you will. Take cheese curls, for example—those bulbous, neon-orange pieces that leave your fingertips stained all day long. Cheese curls are both highly aerated and quite crunchy. But the very texture of a cheese curl’s crunch is directly correlated to its airy texture. To create this texture, things like cornmeal and other grains are mixed with water, oil, and probably 300 other ingredients that sound like the back of a pharmaceutical label. The dough is usually extruded under high pressure, which then causes the mixture to rapidly expand through the infusion of air, which results in the puffed and airy texture of the dough. The dough is usually fried or sometimes baked at high temperatures, which causes the moisture to evaporate and the air pockets that were in the dough to expand even further. The result is a cheese ball or cheese curl.

In fine dining, you’ll see aeration used in a variety of ways, but one of my favorites is through foams and puffed foods. Yeah, yeah, I know it gets dogged all the time by the community. A lot of people like to make fun of the idea of putting a foam on a plate. I get it. It looks and feels very posh, and in general it lines up with the stereotype that any chef will turn something into a foam. As if their hand is trembling over a container of xanthan gum, barely able to hold themselves back from pouring their favorite flavors into a whipped cream canister and letting it rip. But here’s why I like them: they force you to think about what aeration does. One of the most important lessons I learned while foaming sauce was how to master the flavor levels. When I first started playing with the process in restaurants, the foamed sauce always came out way less flavorful than I wanted. Why was that? It turns out the answer was pretty obvious: the original flavor was dispersed and essentially diluted with air. So it would take a lot more sauce to equal the amount of flavor that was in the nonaerated version of the sauce. As a result, we would slightly over flavor and oversalt the sauces before aerating them to the point that you might raise an eyebrow after tasting them prior to foaming them. This step essentially gave us the ability to produce really intense flavor in something that was as light as a feather on the palate. In that juxtaposition, it was a really fun experience for a lot of diners. (I say this like they realized it, but let’s be honest, I probably enjoyed it more than they did.)

SOMETIMES, YOU GOTTA BLOW.

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why should we aerate food?

Aerated is one of the most powerful and transformative of all the textures in this book. Crunchy might be loud and in your face, but aeration gives lightness and tenderness to so many things we eat. Not everything needs to be an extreme version of itself. We all love airy foods because they’re satisfying in a more versatile way. You can use aeration not just to make certain foods lighter, but to control an experience that happens to be one of the most underleveraged in cooking. You might just make an unforgettable experience.

It’s not just about the texture, although that’s undoubtedly a significant factor. Adding air to your cooking can also amplify the flavor of your dishes. I know this may seem a bit conflicting with my previous statement about how adding air can decrease the flavor of something, but there’s an inverse to this statement if the food is flavored deeply enough. If you salt a sauce and then aerate it into an expansive network of tiny air bubbles that carry and distribute flavor compounds throughout the dish, each bite you take will be packed with maximum flavor that fully coats every last taste bud in your mouth. So let Mother Nature take over your mouth. (You see where I’m going here?)

Incorporating air into your cooking has another, rather undiscussed side benefit: it can make your dishes appear more voluminous and substantial. Whether that’s what you’re going for or not, you can certainly use this to your advantage. Aeration can be used to provide intentional height to a dish for aesthetics, or it can just make things more exciting in scale. We all eat with our eyes first, so if you can at least nail the visual execution, you’ll be on the right track.

Whether it’s through whipping, beating, folding, or creaming, incorporating air into your cooking can lead to stunning results, all with a deliciously light and delicate touch. Air can, and absolutely will, enhance the texture of your food. When you incorporate air into your batters, doughs, and creams, millions of tiny air pockets are created that will expand as they heat up, giving your end product that sought-after light, fluffy, and airy texture that’ll make your toes curl. I want you to imagine biting into a jaw-dropping, melt-in-your-mouth soufflé or a beautifully crisp and delicate meringue. Envision that. (Or envision a perfect cheese puff, if that’s more relatable to you.)

TYPES OF AERATION

NATURALLY / WHIPPED

Physically whisking or beating mechanically with a whisk-type attachment

Light, frothy, cloudlike

Can also occur with yeasts—either commercial or natural through fermentation or leavening like baking soda

SPONGE CAKE

WHIPPED CREAM OR MOUSSE

BREAD

UNNATURALLY / FORCIBLY WHIPPED

Done with air or gas, like carbon dioxide or nitrogen

Microfoams

CHEESE FOAM

CAPPUCCINO

NITRO COLD BREW

g AERATED g CONTENTS

ciabatta

Ciabatta is all about lightness and airiness. Big holes, surprisingly big flavor. That sounds wrong if you read it out loud.

prep time

3 hours 10 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

35 minutes

yield

2 large loaves

Poolish:

³/₄ tsp (3g) instant dry yeast

1 cup (250ml) water

1¹/₂ cups (195g) bread flour

Final dough:

1¹/₃ cups (315ml) lukewarm water

¹/₂ tsp (2g) instant dry yeast

3 cups (390g) bread flour, plus more for dusting

³/₄ tbsp (11g) fine sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing

1 cup (250ml) room temperature water, plus more for misting

¹/₂ cup (110g) ice cubes

To make the poolish:

1 In a large bowl, combine the instant dry yeast and water until the yeast dissolves. Add the bread flour, and mix until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rise at room temperature for 14 to 18 hours or overnight.

To make the final dough:

1 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, whisk the lukewarm water and yeast until combined. Add the bread flour, fine sea salt, and poolish. Mix on medium for 6 to 8 minutes or until the dough is nice and smooth. (It will be very wet and sticky.) Cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for 15 minutes.

2 Knead by hand by picking up the dough with a cupped hand and slapping it against the side of the bowl repeatedly for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until it starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Cover the dough with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour.

3 Grease your hands with extra-virgin olive oil, and grab one side of the dough, pulling gently to stretch it. Fold the dough over itself, and repeat this process until the whole perimeter of the dough is folded. Let rest for 30 minutes. Repeat this process two more times during its rest, for a total of three folds. After the third fold, let it rest for 45 minutes more.

4 Place a large cast-iron skillet on the bottom of the oven, ideally filled with lava rocks if you have them. On the middle rack, add a baking steel or a large rectangular pizza stone—something around the size of a baking sheet is ideal. Preheat the oven to its maximum temperature, around 500°F (260°C).

5 Place a piece of parchment paper about the size of the baking steel or pizza stone on the counter. Generously flour the top of the dough and the parchment paper. Use a bench scraper to carefully work the dough out of the bowl and onto the parchment paper. (Be careful not to overwork the dough or degas it.) Generously dust the top of the dough with flour again. Use the bench scraper to gently coax the dough into a large square shape. Carefully but swiftly, split the square into two fat rectangles. Use scissors to cut the parchment in between the two ciabatta so you have two individual ciabatta on parchment paper, with a little overhang of paper under each ciabatta. Generously flour the top again. Tent with generously greased plastic wrap, and proof for 30 minutes.

6 One at a time, lightly mist each loaf with water. Working quickly, transfer one ciabatta loaf to the left side of the baking steel or pizza stone and the other loaf to the right side.

7 In a small bowl, combine the room-temperature water and ice. While wearing protective gloves, quickly and carefully pour the iced water into the cast-iron skillet. Close the oven door to trap the steam, and bake for 25 to 35 minutes.

8 Remove the baking steel or pizza stone from the oven, and let the ciabatta cool on a wire rack to room temperature.

NOTE: We use this cast-iron oven method to create a lot of steam in the oven. You might be thinking that you want to skip the hassle. Please don’t. If you want to skip the oven-steaming method, you might as well stop while you’re ahead there. The steaming is what helps you achieve a beautiful oven spring that allows the bread’s exterior to be moist and pliable enough to rise and create the ideal aerated interior you desire. Without it, you’re just baking your bread into a rock.

ciabatta

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extra-tall frittata

I feel like frittatas are underrated. I mean, they can literally be whatever you want them to be. If you try this fluffy, aerated concoction, you’ll see how a little bit of extra egg and whisking goes a long way toward creating a much more exciting eating experience. They will transform this recipe from being a hockey puck of egg to a light-as-air egg custard that almost melts on your tongue.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

35–40 minutes

yield

about 12 servings

8oz (225g) bacon, cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) lardons

3 shallots, diced

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1¹/₂ tsp (9g) fine sea salt, plus more to taste

¹/₂ tsp (5g) freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

15 large eggs

3 tbsp (45ml) heavy whipping cream

³/₄ cup (180ml) whole milk

1 tbsp (3g) finely chopped thyme leaves

3 cups (270g) grated Gruyère cheese

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2 In a deep, 12-inch (30.5cm) cast-iron skillet over medium heat, add the bacon. Cook, stirring often, until it’s rendered its fat and turns a crispy golden brown.

3 Add the shallots and garlic. Season lightly with fine sea salt and black pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring often for about 8 minutes, or until the shallots are completely softened. Turn off the heat, and allow the pan to cool.

4 In a medium bowl, whisk the salt, pepper, eggs, heavy whipping cream, milk, and thyme until thoroughly combined and homogeneous. Whisk in 1¹/₂ cups (150g) Gruyère cheese.

5 Add the egg mixture to the pan, stirring to combine all the ingredients. Sprinkle the remaining 1¹/₂ cups (150g) Gruyère over the top and then place the pan in the oven to bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until cooked through and puffed. The cheese should be golden brown on top. If the cheese needs more time, broil for 1 to 2 minutes or until it reaches your desired color.

6 Remove the frittata from the oven and allow it to cool in the pan for 15 minutes before serving. You can also serve this frittata at room temperature.

NOTE: When using cast iron, I highly recommend using a well-seasoned pan. If your cast iron isn’t well seasoned, the frittata will stick to the pan. So don’t come cryin’ to me if that happens to you. Now please go out in the world and enjoy the bacon-y, cheesy frittata YOU deserve.

extra-tall frittata

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cheese foam

I know a lot of people won’t make this. I get it. Trust me, I really do. This recipe is so incredibly easy, but you do need a CO₂-charged whipped cream dispenser to make it. I understand that’s not realistic for everyone. At the end of the day, it comes down to how badly you want to try this creamy, unbelievably luscious sauce that can go on nearly anything savory. Think about it: potatoes absolutely smothered in cheese foam or a hot steak sitting in a bath of cheese foam. You simply won’t regret buying a dispenser, even if it’s just to make this airy concoction of cheesy dreams.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

5 minutes

yield

2¹/₂ pints

2 cups (200g) shredded Gruyère cheese

1³/₄ cups (435ml) heavy whipping cream

¹/₂ tsp (3g) kosher salt

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Equipment:

iSi whipped cream canister

1 whipped cream CO₂ charger

1 Add the Gruyère cheese to a blender.

2 In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat the heavy whipping cream until it’s hot and steamy but not boiling.

3 Pour the hot cream into the blender, and blend on high until completely smooth. Season to taste with kosher salt and nutmeg. Blend again to incorporate.

4 Pour the hot mixture into the whipped cream canister, making sure it doesn’t go past the fill line. Close the lid tightly, and charge with the CO₂ charger. Add the round tip nozzle, and shake to incorporate the gas.

5 Keep the canister in a warm water bath. When ready to use, carefully point the nozzle straight down over where you want to add the foam, and then gently pull the trigger and allow it to dispense. If the foam is still a little liquidy, shake the canister until it’s thickened and glossy.

NOTE: Use this foam in place of a cheese sauce for anything from french fries to raw vegetables to steak.

cheese foam

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51-hour focaccia

Most of the time commitment here is just letting this sit in the fridge. Active time spent making this bread is well under an hour. The only thing people get upset about with this recipe is their instant gratification button not getting pressed immediately. If you literally just put on the calendar the day you want to eat this, you can make it ahead of time. Then bake day is a complete breeze.

prep time

51 hours plus 50 minutes

cook time

25 minutes

yield

1 large loaf

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) instant dry yeast

2¹/₂ cups (625ml) water, warmed to 95°F (35°C)

6 cups (900g) tipo 00 flour

1 tbsp (16g) fine sea salt

¹/₄ cup to ¹/₃ cup (60 to 80ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Flaky salt, to taste

Za’atar, to taste (optional)

1 In a medium bowl, whisk the instant yeast into the water until dissolved.

2 In a large bowl, whisk together the tipo 00 flour and fine sea salt until combined. Add the yeast mixture to the flour mixture. Mix by hand until it forms a shaggy dough. With your hand cupped, scoop up the dough and then slap it right back down into the bowl over and over for about 5 minutes, or until the dough begins to smooth out. (This is my preferred method of kneading this style of dough.) Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 48 hours.

3 Generously oil a 9- × 13-inch (23 × 33cm) baking pan with olive oil. A little bit of a pool of oil is desired; somewhere around ¹/₄ to ¹/₃ cup (60 to 80ml) of oil is appropriate. Scrape the dough into the baking pan, spreading it as much as possible. Cover with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 15 minutes. Spread the dough out to the edges of the pan. Then cover again with plastic wrap, and proof at room temperature for 3¹/₂ hours.

4 When there’s only 1 hour left of proof time, preheat the oven to its maximum temperature, ideally 500°F (260°C).

5 After proofing, generously drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over top of the dough and also add a little in your hands. Rub your hands together, and use your fingertips to dimple the dough all over the surface. Sprinkle the flaky salt and za’atar (if using) on top of the dough. Place the pan in the oven, and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the bread has puffed, is a gorgeous golden brown on the outside, and is just baked through.

6 Remove the focaccia from the oven, let it cool in the baking pan for 1 minute, and immediately transfer to a wire rack to cool completely so the bottom stays crispy.

51-hour focaccia

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dutch baby

with fried capers & burrata

I honestly think it’s the name of this dish that turns people away. “Hey, Rick, you wanna go get Dutch babies down the street?” It just sounds weird. You should take a chance, though, because this is one of my favorite side dishes of all time for an unforgettable brunch…or really any time.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

45 minutes

yield

2–3 servings

3 large eggs

¹/₂ cup (60g) all-purpose flour

¹/₂ cup (125ml) whole milk

2 tsp (10g) vanilla bean paste

1¹/₂ tbsp (23ml) maple syrup

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

3 tbsp (42g) unsalted butter

¹/₂ cup (125ml) vegetable oil, for frying

¹/₄ cup (45g) capers

1 (4–8oz [115–225g]) ball burrata cheese

Honey, for drizzling

Flaky salt, for serving

Freshly ground black pepper, for serving

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C), and set the oven rack in the middle position. When the oven is preheated, place a 10-inch (25cm) cast-iron skillet inside for 20 minutes.

2 In a blender, combine the eggs, all-purpose flour, milk, vanilla bean paste, maple syrup, and fine sea salt. Blend on medium until smooth.

3 Open the oven and add the butter to the pan and then close the door and leave the pan in the oven until the butter has completely melted. Remove the pan from the oven, and swirl it to coat evenly with the butter. Pour the batter into the pan, and place it back in the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and golden brown.

4 Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F (180°C). Add the capers. Be careful not to burn yourself, because they’ll pop pretty aggressively. Fry for 2 minutes, or until the bubbling subsides and the capers are puffed and crisp. Carefully remove the capers from the pan, and drain on a paper towel.

5 Remove the skillet from the oven, and immediately place the burrata in the center. Top with the fried capers and a generous drizzle of honey, and sprinkle flaky salt and black pepper over the top. Enjoy immediately.

dutch baby with fried capers & burrata

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cajun puffed beef tendons

After publishing my previous cookbook, I found there were a few people who wanted me to do more interesting and cheffy recipes that might challenge them or teach them a technique they’d never seen before. Well, here’s one of those recipes. This is a classic technique that a lot of fine-dining restaurants use, and now I’m now passing it along to you.

prep time

20 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

8–10 hours

yield

6–8 servings

2 lb (907g) beef tendons

1 qt (950ml) vegetable oil, for frying

Salt, to taste, or Cajun seasoning of choice (see Note)

1 Wash the beef tendons thoroughly. Place them in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and then reduce the heat to low. Gently simmer the tendons for 6 to 8 hours or until they’re extremely soft and tender. Adding water to the pot will be necessary as it evaporates during this long cook time.

2 Drain the tendons and place them in a 9- × 5-inch (23 × 13cm) bread pan. Top with another equally sized bread pan, and weigh down the pan with a stack of cans. Refrigerate overnight.

3 The next day, carefully remove the pressed tendon block from the bread pan while it’s still cold. Use a very sharp knife or deli slicer to cut the tendons into very thin slices about ¹/₈-inch (3mm) thick. Arrange on dehydrator racks, and dehydrate at 130°F (55°C) for 2 hours.

4 Fill a large Dutch oven halfway full of vegetable oil, and heat to 350°F (180°C) over medium-high heat. Working in batches, and being careful not to overcrowd the pot, add the tendons and fry for 4 to 5 seconds, or until they dramatically puff up.

5 Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain and then immediately season to taste with salt or the Cajun seasoning of your choice. Repeat with the remaining tendons.

6 Enjoy straight up, or use as chips with any dip you like. Treat them like chicharrones or tortilla chips.

NOTE: Seasoning the tendons with plain salt goes a long way and lends them to be paired with any sauce, dip, or spread you desire. But if you want them to be Cajun spiced, you can very easily use your favorite Cajun spice blend. Just make sure whatever spice blend you use has salt in it.

cajun puffed beef tendons

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spicy curry puffed chickpeas

You want to make your own snacks? Start here.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

20 minutes

yield

about 4 cups

2 (15.5oz [440g]) cans chickpeas

1¹/₂ tbsp (22g) kosher salt

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

Seasoning:

1¹/₂ tbsp (22g) kosher salt

2 tsp (6g) smoked paprika

1 tbsp (10g) ground coriander

1 tbsp (10g) ground cumin

2 tsp (6g) ground ginger

1 tbsp (10g) ground turmeric

¹/₂ tsp (2g) ground cinnamon

1 tsp (3g) ground cardamom

2 tsp (6g) cayenne

1 tbsp (13g) sugar

1 tsp (3g) garlic powder

¹/₂ tsp (2g) onion powder

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

2 Drain and rinse the chickpeas, and place them in a medium pot over high heat. Add 2 quarts (1.9 liters) water and the kosher salt, and boil for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the chickpeas are extremely soft and mushy but still retain their shape. Gently drain the chickpeas through a colander and then transfer to a baking sheet. Place the chickpeas in the preheated oven to dry for 5 minutes.

3 In a large Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil to 375°F (190°C) over medium-high heat. Ensure the oil doesn’t go higher than halfway up the pot. (When frying, this will foam a lot, so be cautious.)

4 While the oil is heating, whisk together all the seasoning ingredients in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined.

5 Starting with very small batches of chickpeas, gently lower some chickpeas into the oil and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until puffed and crisp. You’ll know they’re done when the bubbling has mostly subsided and they look slightly darker than before.

6 Drain the chickpeas on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Season immediately with a generous amount of the seasoning mixture.

7 When the chickpeas have cooled and are crispy, serve immediately or store in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days, ideally with 1 or 2 food-safe silica packets.

spicy curry puffed chickpeas

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puffed rice crackers

These are a touch tedious to make, but once you get the method down, I’d argue they might become your favorite homemade snack in your arsenal. The main reason is because of how neutral they taste unseasoned. I mean, of course you can season them with what’s listed in this recipe…but think of the possibilities: cinnamon sugar churros, Doritos flavored, caramel corn flavored. The options are unlimited.

prep time

1 hours 30 minutes

cook time

25 minutes

yield

about 20 crackers

1 cup (185g) uncooked jasmine rice, rinsed

2 cups (500ml) water

1¹/₂ qt (1.4 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

Seasoning:

2¹/₂ tsp (15g) kosher salt

2 tsp (6g) shichimi togarashi seasoning

1 tsp (3g) garlic powder

¹/₂ tsp (1g) ground ginger

¹/₄ tsp (2g) sugar

1 Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C).

2 In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the jasmine rice and water. Simmer the rice for about 20 minutes or until it’s a little mushy and extremely soft. (You can also use a rice cooker. This is nearly double the amount of water you’d usually use, but that’s the point here.)

3 Evenly divide the cooked rice and place it on two silicone baking mats or sheets of parchment paper of equal size. Use a rolling pin to shape the rice into rectangular sheets around ¹/₃-inch (0.9cm) thick. Place in the preheated oven to dry for 1 hour.

4 When the rice sheets are dry, use a pair of scissors to cut each sheet into the desired size of squares or shapes you like. You can also cut them into large, randomized squares and break them into smaller pieces after frying.

5 In a small bowl, whisk together all the seasoning ingredients until combined.

6 Heat the vegetable oil in a 5-quart (4.7-liter) Dutch oven to 400°F (200°C) over medium-high heat. Without overcrowding the vessel, fry the portioned rice sheets in batches for 20 to 30 seconds, or until puffed and the bubbling has subsided. Make sure to fry both sides of each rice portion evenly. Drain on a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and season immediately with the spice mixture. Repeat with the remaining portions.

puffed rice crackers

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puffed potatoes

Another fine-dining recipe. You might or might not have ever had these, but they lend themselves less to a side dish and more to little amuse-bouche that you can serve at any gathering, breakfast, brunch, or dinner party. Or you can just make them all for yourself. I won’t judge you.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

20 minutes

yield

5–6 servings

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¹/₈-in-thick (3mm) slices

1¹/₂ tbsp (15g) cornstarch

Kosher salt, to taste

1 Add the vegetable oil to a 7-quart (6.6-liter) pot and heat to 325°F (165°C) over medium-high heat.

2 Place ¹/₂ the potato slices in a single layer on a clean, flat surface. Sprinkle the cornstarch in a thin, even layer over the top of the slices and then use a pastry brush to evenly distribute the cornstarch. (Make sure the cornstarch does not clump because it will become gummy during frying.) Stack the remaining potato slices directly on top of the dusted slices.

3 Using a 2-inch (5cm) ring cutter, cut 3 to 4 small disks from each potato slice stack. Transfer all the disks to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and then pat dry with additional paper towels.

4 Working in batches of 3 to 4 at a time, fry the disks in the hot oil for 20 seconds, and then use a slotted spoon to flip them and cook for 20 seconds more. (Not every slice will puff and aerate; some will remain flat and will only crisp.)

5 Use the slotted spoon to transfer the disks from the oil to a wire rack placed on a baking sheet. Season to taste with kosher salt, and serve hot.

puffed potatoes

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ginger beer

If you’ve ever thought about making your own soda, please start here. Yes, it’s going to be way more effort than just using some sort of force-carbonating machine, but the cost is minimal and it requires absolutely no special equipment. Sugar, ginger, water, and nature. It’s a beautiful thing.

prep time

up to 15 days

cook time

none

yield

about 2 quarts (1.9 liters)

Ginger bug:

Fresh, unpeeled ginger, grated

Raw sugar

Filtered water

Ginger beer:

1 qt (950ml) water

¹/₂ cup (100g) raw sugar

¹/₂ cup (125ml) ginger bug, strained

2¹/₂ tbsp (30g) peeled and finely grated ginger

2 tbsp (30ml) lemon juice

To make the ginger bug:

1 In a sterilized 1-quart (950ml) jar, combine 2 tablespoons (12g) grated ginger, 1¹/₂ teaspoons (8g) raw sugar, and ¹/₄ cup (60ml) filtered water. Mix until the sugar has dissolved. Cover the jar with cheesecloth and attach to the top of the jar with a rubber band. Let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

2 The next day, add 1 tablespoon (6g) grated ginger, 1¹/₂ teaspoons (8g) raw sugar, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) water. Stir with a clean spoon until the sugar has dissolved. Repeat this process once a day for 4 to 7 days.

3 When the jar is a little over halfway full and is nice and bubbly, it’s ready to use. This process could go on indefinitely, but my recommendation is to strain the ginger bug into a new jar after 10 days and begin adding fresh ginger to prevent mold from developing on your ferment.

To make the ginger beer:

1 In a large, sterilized glass jar, combine all the ginger beer ingredients. Cover the jar with cheesecloth and attach to the top with a rubber band.

2 Place the jar somewhere dark at room temperature for 3 to 5 days or until bubbles begin forming at the top of the water line. Strain the mixture into a sterilized container that’s easy to pour from. Pour the mixture into a flip-top bottle.

3 Close the bottle and ferment for another 2 to 4 days at room temperature, and then refrigerate overnight before consuming. This will stay good for at least 1 month if stored in the fridge. Be cautious when opening because the liquid can foam aggressively if overfermented. Open near or over a sink in case it spews a little bit. Do so at your own risk.

NOTE: Fermentation can be tricky, and sanitation is super important! Make sure to wash all produce thoroughly before you begin the fermentation process.

ginger beer

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sfogliatelle

I don’t expect many people to make this, but it’s a perfect example of how the creation of air pockets can affect a dessert. Without the magical puffing properties of the steam created by the baking of the butter, this dessert would simply not exist. This one sits exquisitely between crunchy and aerated. It’s a lovely little thing.

prep time

3 hours

cook time

40 minutes

yield

12 servings

Dough:

3¹/₂ cups (455g) bread flour

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt

¹/₄ cup (60ml) honey

³/₄ cup (185ml) water, plus more as needed

³/₄ cup (171g) unsalted butter, melted

Filling:

2 cups (500ml) whole milk

³/₄ cup (150g) granulated sugar

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt

²/₃ cup (120g) semolina flour

2 cups (500g) full-fat ricotta cheese

1 large egg

1 egg yolk

Seeds from 1 vanilla bean

¹/₂ tsp (2g) ground cinnamon

¹/₄ cup (50g) finely chopped candied orange peel

Powdered sugar

To make the dough:

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the bread flour and fine sea salt until combined. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey and water until combined. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture, and combine by hand until you get a rough, stiff dough. You might need to add an extra 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 44ml) water, but make sure the dough remains stiff. Knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it’s nice and smooth. Wrap in greased plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2 Split the dough into four even pieces. Working with one piece at a time on a lightly dusted bench—keeping the other pieces covered with greased plastic wrap to prevent drying—roll the dough through a pasta machine. Start on the widest setting, and then fold in half and roll again on the widest setting. Gradually change the size of the rolling to be thinner and thinner each time. When you’ve reached a sheet that’s less than ¹/₈-inch (3mm) thick, it’s done.

3 Brush the dough with a thin layer of butter, and then roll it into a tight cylinder-like shape. Roll out the remaining pieces of dough one at a time in the same fashion. Store rolled dough in the fridge between rolls.

4 Place the first cylinder of dough at the bottom of the long side of another sheet of dough, exposing some of the tail so it can be connected to the next sheet. Roll dough all the way up to create the same length cylinder so it becomes thicker than before. Repeat with the remaining dough. Each time you do this, you’re creating a thicker and thicker cylinder. When you’re done, you should have a very thick cylinder of multiple layers of butter and dough. Wrap with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 90 minutes.

5 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

To make the filling and assemble:

1 In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk, granulated sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil, and then add the semolina flour. Cook, constantly stirring, until thick and smooth, about 3 minutes. Allow to cool completely.

2 In a large bowl, combine the ricotta cheese, egg, egg yolk, vanilla beans, cinnamon, and candied orange peel. Add the cooled semolina mixture, and stir together until thoroughly combined.

3 Remove the cylinder from the fridge, and cut into ³/₄-inch-thick (1.9cm) slices. With greased or buttered fingers, use your thumbs to puff the center of each slice outward, opening the dough layers to form it into a cone shape. (Don’t push the layers too far apart.) Holding the cone in one hand, fill with enough cream filling so it stands kind of puffed up. Gently pinch the open mouth of the cone shut—it doesn’t have to be perfectly sealed. Repeat with the remaining slices, and place them evenly spaced apart on a baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes.

4 Remove from the oven and cool for 6 to 8 minutes. Dust generously with powdered sugar, and serve immediately.

sfogliatelle

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lighter-than-air glazed donuts

Technically, these aren’t lighter than air because that’s physically impossible. But you’ll probably say, “Oh, wow. These are lighter than air.” Make sense? Biting into these is exactly what I imagine biting into a cloud is like.

prep time

2 hours

cook time

10 minutes

yield

12 donuts

1¹/₂ cups (375ml) whole milk

4 tsp (12g) instant dry yeast

2 large eggs

1 egg yolk

4 cups (600g) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

¹/₃ cup (65g) granulated sugar

1¹/₂ tsp (9g) fine sea salt

1 tsp (2g) amylase

¹/₈ tsp diastatic malt powder (optional)

¹/₂ cup (113g) unsalted butter, softened

Vegetable oil, for frying

Glaze:

4 cups (480g) powdered sugar

5–6 tbsp (75–90ml) water

2 tsp (10ml) pure vanilla extract

1 In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the milk to 95°F (35°C). Remove from the heat, transfer to a stand mixer bowl, and whisk in the instant yeast until dissolved. Whisk in the eggs and egg yolk.

2 In a large bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, granulated sugar, fine sea salt, amylase, and diastatic malt powder (if using).

3 Place the stand mixer bowl onto the stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. Turn the mixer to medium-low, and begin gradually adding the flour mixture, about 2 tablespoons at a time, until a doughy batter begins to form. Then continue adding the flour mixture about ¹/₂ cup at a time until it has all been added. Add the butter and allow the dough to mix for about 3 to 5 minutes, or until smooth and homogeneous.

4 Remove the dough from the mixer bowl, shape it into a light ball, and place it in a greased bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise for 90 minutes at room temperature or until doubled in size.

5 Dust a work surface with flour as needed. Gently degas the dough by punching it down, and then dump it onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the top with flour and roll until about ³/₄-inch (1.9cm) thick. Use a donut cutter to cut as many donuts as you can. Alternatively, you can use a 3-inch (7.6cm) circular biscuit cutter and a small cookie or biscuit cutter in the center to make the hole.

6 On a baking sheet that’s been lightly greased and dusted with flour, place the prepared donuts about 1 inch (2.5cm) apart. Cover with greased plastic wrap, and proof for 45 to 60 minutes.

7 Place a wire rack on a baking sheet. To a large Dutch oven, add vegetable oil to a depth of about 2¹/₂ inches (6.4cm). Place over medium-high heat and heat the oil to 335°F (170°C). Fry 3 to 4 donuts at a time, being careful not to overcrowd the Dutch oven. They’ll begin to puff in the oil. Fry for 30 to 45 seconds, or until both sides reach a nice golden brown color. Immediately transfer to the wire rack to cool and repeat with the remaining donuts.

8 For the glaze, to a large bowl, add the powdered sugar. Starting with just 5 tablespoons (75ml) water, whisk together until combined, and then whisk in the vanilla extract. When completely combined, assess if additional water is needed and add if necessary. One donut at a time, dip one side of each donut into the glaze until it reaches about three-fourths up the donut. Return to the wire rack with the glazed side facing up. Repeat with all the donuts and allow them to set completely on the wire rack before eating.

lighter-than-air glazed donuts

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bourbon challah french toast casserole

After the custard in this dish soaks into the bread and the casserole hits the oven and rapidly expands with air bubbles, you’ll be greeted with a beautifully tender and light French toast casserole. This can be served at a party without the hassle of spending an insane amount of time cooking individual French toast slices.

prep time

1 hour 30 minutes

cook time

35 minutes

yield

4 servings

1 large loaf challah, sliced ³/₄-in (1.9cm) thick

6 large eggs

2 egg yolks

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) ground cinnamon

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground nutmeg

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground allspice

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

¹/₃ cup (35g) light brown sugar

2 cups (500ml) heavy whipping cream

1¹/₂ cups (375ml) whole milk

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) bourbon

Maple syrup, for serving

Whipped cream, for serving

Fresh berries, for serving

Powdered sugar, for serving

1 Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Generously coat a 9- × 13-inch (23 × 33cm) baking dish with cooking spray.

2 Place the challah slices on a baking sheet in a single layer, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until dried.

3 In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, fine sea salt, and brown sugar until homogeneous. Whisk in the heavy whipping cream, milk, and bourbon.

4 Arrange the bread so it’s shingled in two rows in the baking dish and everything fits nice and snug. Pour the custard mixture on top, and refrigerate for a minimum of 45 minutes or overnight. (This is great to prep the night before you plan to have it for breakfast.)

5 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

6 Loosely tent the dish with foil to prevent the top of the casserole from burning. Place the dish in the oven, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

7 Remove the dish from the oven, and let cool at room temperature for 5 minutes. Top with maple syrup, whipped cream, and berries, then lightly dust with powdered sugar. Enjoy!

bourbon challah french toast casserole

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creamy

Creamy | CONTENTS

introduction to creamy

one-pound-of-butter mashed potatoes

butter chicken wings

tom kha gai

fried cauliflower

chicken pot pie

milk-braised pork

butternut risotto

the perfect potato salad

root vegetable salad

potatoes dauphinoise

perfectly baked mac and cheese

lavender crème brûlée

tres leches

g CREAMY g CONTENTS

cream is the money

There’s a reason cream is used as slang when referring to money. (Wu-Tang Clan really understood that.) It’s luxurious and sophisticated, and you can throw that shit on anything and probably make something happen in your favor if you put enough of it in. The main thing is that cream is so good that it is often used as a crutch by many professionals and home cooks alike. The French love to use it, while the Italians have a troubled past with it. The French would say add more cream for more depth and richness on the palate, whereas the Italians would likely pull shivs from their pockets if you were to even think about putting it anywhere near their carbonara or cacio e pepe. I can agree with both of those takes. I’m referring specifically to high-fat heavy cream in this example, but the experience of something creamy goes far beyond a bottle in your grocery’s dairy section.

I want you to imagine this moment. You’re out at a restaurant. It’s a perfect day outside; not a cloud in sight, the temperature is maybe 72°F (32°C) and the humidity is practically nonexistent. You sit down for brunch with your friends and you’re not thinking about a single one of them. All you’re thinking about is a plate of hot, unctuously crispy and salty fries and a ramekin filled with the perfect little swirl of ketchup. Finally, after an hour of waiting through a busy brunch service, you spot them in the distance. They’re borderline twinkling. Is the twinkle the fry oil and salt? Or is it an almost angelic moment because you’ve been waiting for so long and you’re hallucinating from hunger? The plate lands, and there they are. Your fries and a ramekin of ketchup. There’s also some other sauce, but you don’t even notice it because your mind is clouded with doing dirty things to the stack of fries in front of you. One goes into the ketchup to create the perfect hot-and-cold, sweet-and-salty combo. You’re thinking that nothing could be better than this moment as a symphony plays in your head. While you look off into the distance, you dunk a fry without looking and it sinks deeply into the other ramekin of sauce, the one you did not notice. As you lift the fry in what might as well be slow motion, you bite down and crunch through. Whoa…wait a minute. That’s not ketchup. It’s garlicky; it’s a little sweet but mostly savory, maybe even a little spicy; and wait…it’s creamy. It was the most perfect fry sauce you’ve ever had land on your taste buds, and it’s occurred to you that you’ve never eaten fries dipped in mayonnaise. This is the moment in time your whole life changes, and it’s the texture of a creamy mayo that incites it.

DIPPING A CRUNCHY FRENCH FRY INTO CREAMY, SPICY MAYO IS THE PERFECT COMBO.

g CREAMY g CONTENTS

what is creamy?

The term creamy can cause some confusion. The first reaction many people have when they think of making something creamy is to add full-fat whipping cream—the thick and luscious high-fat stuff that’s skimmed off the top of fresh milk—to a dish. I think that the pure texture of that describes creamy quite well, but let’s discuss the depth of the texture. A creamy texture is something I’d associate with anything that has a smoothness; a richness that’s extremely cohesive throughout the entire product. It’s velvety smooth and maybe a little bit thick or viscous. In most cases, creamy purely exists in one very specific way: the presence of an emulsion. It’s the same reason we love mayos and aiolis so gat dang much. (Don’t get me started on the term aioli. We are putting that in the same category as mayo because most places are just making flavored mayos and calling them aiolis, but again I’m not going to get on my high horse right now.) Foods are often made creamy by emulsifying fats into different things. I use mayonnaise as an example because it’s the poster child of emulsions. It doesn’t get any more obvious than that: you’ve got egg yolks that you then emulsify with oil.

The very basic science of creamy is determined by the physical properties of fats and their ability to create smooth and rich textures. You can combine two immiscible liquids like oil and water, which are then stabilized by an emulsifying agent like a protein or a phospholipid. With mayo, the egg yolk is the emulsifying agent, to which a little lemon juice is added, and then you emulsify the oil into those two things by constantly whisking while slowly incorporating the oil. When the fat becomes incorporated this way, you eventually distribute the mixture and form tiny droplets that essentially stabilize the whole mixture into one creamy, cohesive sauce. In that cohesive mixture you’ve created exactly the texture we’re talking about…creaminess. But if you were to completely screw up the process and “break” your emulsion, you’d just have a mixture of separated oil and egg yolk. What would the texture of that be like if you ate it? It wouldn’t be creamy whatsoever. It would be an oily, almost flavorless mess. It’s the cohesion of everything in a stable emulsion that creates the creaminess.

The funny thing about this is that even the most basic example of creaminess—heavy cream—is a natural emulsion in and of itself! You can break the emulsion by agitating it, which then creates butter. But guess what? Butter is an emulsion too! And you can break that emulsion by heating and melting it. At that point, the emulsion is fully broken, but you can see how layered an emulsion can really be, especially in a natural state.

OIL CLEARLY SEPARATED FROM THE YOLKS, LEMON JUICE, AND DIJON MUSTARD BELOW.

BLENDING CREATES A SUBSTANCE THAT’S HOMOGENEOUS, CREAMY, AND, WELL…MAYONNAISE!

g CREAMY g CONTENTS

why does creaminess matter beyond richness?

Because of the emulsions present in most creamy foods, they are extremely good at carrying flavors. That’s why chefs are so particular about emulsions. (A broken emulsion might as well mean it’s time to turn in your chef coat.) Creamy textures cling to a spoon in the same way they cling to flavor. Not only will they deliver a nice, rich, smooth texture, but they’re going to fully coat all your taste buds with the intended flavor. Whatever you put into your creamiest of sauces, it will mop up every last ounce of flavor that’s there, and it’s going to leave pretty much nothing behind. When you season a nice fried fish and place it in a hot, fresh tortilla, some of that seasoning might fall off in the process. But the spicy mayo you drizzle on top of the fish is going to deliver every last ounce of its flavor—and not only that, it’s going to cling to whatever it lands on.

This concept doesn’t just apply to mayo and cream, though. Sauces can be emulsified with cold butter and turned into glossy, viscous, rich vehicles of flavor. Even certain vegetables, like cauliflower, can have an almost creamy-like consistency when cooked for long periods of time and then blended, with no dairy added whatsoever. Even just using a powerful blender can force emulsions. This was one of my biggest discoveries in the world of sauce-making while working in restaurants. Chefs would literally just blend the shit out of some hot things and maybe introduce a little bit of oil while blending, and if the blender was powerful enough, it would quite literally just emulsify into the mixture that was being blended. This not only turned whatever sauce we were making creamy, but it would cling to whatever we poured it on. It also lightened the color and created a very consistent-looking product. So in the world of chefs, when in doubt, blend the shit out of it.

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how to make creamy textures

The long story short is that creaminess in a food or dish is essentially a full-bodied mouthfeel that most people enjoy. Here is an unofficial list of how creaminess can manifest itself in different foods:

Fat content: The inherently high fat content of foods like ice cream, butter, and mayonnaise is where they derive their creamy textures from.

Starches and thickeners: Some foods can obtain levels of creaminess through the use of a good thickener or starch. Although these ingredients don’t use fat to achieve the desired texture, they can create a uniform consistency by absorbing liquid and forming a gel-like structure—think puddings, custards, or creamy soups. As a result, you can cheat the system without adding fat and instead add a starch if it makes sense for what you’re making. Think of risottos—even with the starch being constantly agitated and combined with a broth or stock, the risotto will eventually form a creamy texture without much or any fat being added.

Puréed ingredients: Overcooking vegetables can lead to a nice, creamy texture, and simply blending those vegetables as smoothly as possible will produce a velvety texture that could very easily be misconstrued as an almost dairy-like creaminess, particularly with the right vegetables, like cauliflower.

Dairy products: Just think of all the dairy-based sauces like Alfredo and béchamel, as well as salad dressings like ranch and, of course, a good old-fashioned carton of heavy cream. Sometimes simply folding in something like crème fraîche, mascarpone, Greek yogurt, sour cream, or even cream cheese (this is an American thing) can instantly add a beautiful creamy texture while also introducing brand-new flavors. REMEMBER: certain dairy products, like crème fraîche or mascarpone in particular can easily separate by being heated, so introduce these things cautiously when adding to hot, cooked foods.

Emulsions: The more stable the emulsion, the creamier and smoother the texture. And I promise it doesn’t stop at mayonnaise. Things like hollandaise, cheese sauces, beurre monté, and so on all rely on some form of emulsion to form their creamy and uniform textures.

Melting and softening: Some foods become creamy as they melt or soften, due to exposure to either heat or moisture. This can be observed in foods like cheese, chocolate, and certain types of confections that take on a creamy texture as they are heated or dissolve in the mouth.

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using creaminess to your advantage

As you delve into the world of creamy textures, remember that the power lies in their versatility and ability to elevate the overall dining experience. With a little imagination and knowledge, you can harness the potential of creaminess and transform your food into a masterpiece of balance and indulgence. Here’s how to use creaminess to your advantage:

Perfecting sauces: A creamy texture can be the ultimate game-changer when it comes to any sauce you can think of. Some might even say it’s yet another chef crutch. Think of a plate of spaghetti with a velvety, silky sauce that clings to every single little strand, creating a harmonious fusion of flavors. By incorporating an element that leads to creaminess, you can create the ideal circumstance that allows the sauce to blanket your pasta or vegetables in a way that keeps you from physically losing the sauce on the way to your mouth, and ensures that every bite will have maximum flavor.

Layering flavors: The art of layering flavors can be amplified through creaminess. Imagine a luscious, velvety soup with swirls of seasoned cream on top, adding an extra depth of flavor and an element of visual appeal. Creamy textures can act as a bridge between bold flavors, creating a smooth and cohesive dish that delights the senses.

Balancing heat: Creaminess is truly a secret weapon when it comes to balancing the heat of a spicy dish. A cooling, creamy element helps cut through the heat of a fiery curry, adding a dimension of richness that not only soothes the palate, but helps coat every single taste bud with flavor.

Enhancing mouthfeel: I would argue that nine times out of ten this is the main reason I’d choose to add some sort of creamy element to something I’m serving or eating. The creaminess of a dish can bring a sense of indulgence to your recipes, but beyond that, it adds a luxurious depth that might be lacking. And you all should know how I feel about meals that seem luxurious. A velvety, smooth panna cotta that melts in your mouth isn’t great just because it sounds fancy, but because its texture IS what I imagine fancy feels like.

Showcasing contrasts: Creaminess can serve as a stage for contrasting textures. Maybe you have a crunchy crostini topped with a creamy, savory spread, or our previously mentioned humble french fry dipped in mayonnaise. You use the nice, smooth mayonnaise as a counterbalance to that aggressive crunch so the eating experience becomes multidimensional. First you get a symphony of crunch, which then beautifully transitions to a silky, creamy smooth. By leveraging creaminess, you can highlight contrasting textures, so try to think of them as good counterpunches to loud textures.

“I wish this was creamier” moments: What I mean by this is that by recognizing the power behind the simple understanding of how an emulsion in virtually anything will create a creamy texture, you will know what to do the next time you make a sauce. Maybe try blending that sauce on high speed (assuming it takes well to being blended) and slowly drizzle in a neutral oil such as grapeseed or avocado oil while blending and watch it turn from basic sauce to a bright, creamy sauce that will cling and coat anything your heart desires. This obviously comes with the assumption there are things in that sauce that would cause it to emulsify properly with oil, such as the proper viscosity or cooked vegetables. The point is, experiment and play with your options, and you’ll open a new world to getting creamed up. (That last sentence reads weird.)

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one-pound-of-butter mashed potatoes

I like to refer to these as one-pound-of-butter mashed potatoes because it turns heads. Really, these are a riff on Robuchon potatoes, which are arguably some of the most delicious potatoes in the world. It’s an incredible way to enjoy a luxurious meal. The creaminess here comes from an emulsion of butter and starch, and it’s truly glorious.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

4–6 servings

3¹/₂ lb (1.6kg) small Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled (see Note)

1lb (455g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

¹/₄ cup (60ml) whole milk

Kosher salt, to taste

1 In a large pot over medium-high heat, cover the Yukon Gold potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes or until just cooked through.

2 Use a paring knife to peel the potatoes while they’re still hot. Quickly run the hot potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer and into a medium pot with plenty of stirring room to spare.

3 Place the pot over medium heat. Use a heatproof spatula to gently stir the potatoes constantly while adding a small handful of butter. Stir and allow the butter to melt and emulsify into the potatoes. When combined, add more butter, repeating this process until all the butter has been added.

4 Whisk in the whole milk until homogeneous. Season to taste with kosher salt, and serve immediately.

NOTE: When looking for Yukon Gold potatoes, you don’t want them too big or too small. You want something in between a full-sized russet potato and a small red potato. I don’t recommend using baby or fingerling potatoes for this recipe unless you want to risk overcooking them and spending an hour peeling dozens of little potatoes.

one-pound-of-butter mashed potatoes

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butter chicken wings

Butter chicken sauce is probably one of the most balanced and creamy sauces I can think of; it’s creamy but also salty, acidic, sweet, fragrant, and umami all at once. It’s definitely an important member of the creamy family. I love wings, and I love butter chicken. What more can I say? Let’s not play games here. This feels right despite the traditional side of my brain feeling wrong about it. Look, there was a time when butter chicken pasta was a thing, and to me, this is far more permissible than that. At the end of the day, this is f—ing delicious, and you can call it whatever you want, but if these utterly tantalizingly succulent bad boys are in front of me, I’m suckin’ on the bone!

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

25 minutes

yield

3–4 servings

Butter chicken sauce:

3¹/₂ tbsp (50g) ghee

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1-in (2.5cm) knob of ginger, thinly chopped

1 tsp (5g) kosher salt

1 tsp (5g) ground cumin

2 tsp (7g) garam masala

1 tsp (2g) ground coriander

1 tsp (2g) Kashmiri chili powder

1 (14oz [400g]) can of crushed tomatoes

1 tsp (4g) sugar

¹/₂ cup (125ml) chicken stock

1 cup (250ml) heavy whipping cream

1 tsp (2g) dried fenugreek leaves

¹/₂ cup (113g) unsalted butter, cold

Wings:

2¹/₂ lb (1.1kg) wings (a mix of drumettes and flats)

2¹/₂ tsp (15g) fine sea salt

2 tsp (12g) freshly grated ginger

¹/₂ tsp (3g) ground white pepper

2 qt (1.9 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

1¹/₂ cups (180g) cornstarch

1 For the wings, in a large bowl, combine the wings, fine sea salt, ginger, and white pepper. Toss to coat completely. Let marinate.

2 To make the butter sauce, heat the ghee in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it’s melted and hot, add the yellow onion, garlic, and ginger. Season to taste with kosher salt and let it sweat, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes or until the vegetables are very soft.

3 Add the cumin, garam masala, coriander, and Kashmiri chili powder. Stir and toast for 25 seconds.

4 Add the crushed tomatoes, sugar, and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until all the vegetables are fully softened and the mixture has reduced by 25 to 30 percent. Pour the sauce into a blender, and blend on high until as smooth as possible.

5 Pour the sauce back into the saucepan and add the heavy whipping cream and fenugreek leaves. Cook and reduce for 3 to 5 minutes or until thickened to your liking. Turn off the heat, and add the butter while constantly stirring. Continue stirring until the butter has completely melted and emulsified with the sauce. Season to taste with salt.

6 Heat the vegetable oil in a 5-quart (4.7-liter) Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it reaches 325°F (165°C). Working in batches, in a large bowl, combine the chicken wings and cornstarch. Toss to combine and then shake off the excess. Add the wings to the Dutch oven, and fry for 3 to 4 minutes or until just cooked through but no color on the chicken has begun to show yet.

7 Remove and drain the wings on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Increase the oil temperature to 375°F (190°C), and fry the wings for about 5 to 7 minutes more or until they’re a deep, crispy, golden brown.

8 Transfer the wings to a large bowl, add the butter chicken sauce, and toss to coat. Serve immediately.

butter chicken wings

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tom kha gai

Whenever I go to a Thai restaurant with my wife, I know she’s going to order this literally every single time. It’s gotten to the point where I order it for her before she says anything. Not because I want her to have it but just so I can show off my mind-reading capabilities. This soup isn’t far off from being a show-off like me either. It’s unbelievably creamy while also being super balanced, with a sharp tang, a gentle sweetness, and a nice kick in the pants of spicy umami flavor. 

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

20 minutes

yield

2–4 servings, depending on a side serving or full serving

2 stalks lemongrass

1¹/₂-in (3.8cm) knob galangal, sliced (see Note) 

4 kaffir lime leaves 

2 cups (474ml) chicken stock

1 lb (455g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-in (2.5cm) cubes 

1oz (28g) sliced dried shiitake mushrooms

2 cups (500ml) full-fat coconut milk (see Note)

4 Thai chilies, thinly sliced

1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt 

3 tbsp (36g) palm sugar, plus more to taste

3 tbsp (45ml) fish sauce, plus more to taste 

5 sprigs cilantro, plus more for garnish

5 sprigs Thai basil, plus more for garnish

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more to taste

Chili oil, for serving

Steamed rice, for serving (optional) 

1 Use a meat mallet or heavy pan to beat the lemongrass until it’s fragrant and bruised. Slice the bruised lemongrass on a bias and then lay the slices on a 5- × 5-inch (12.8 × 12.8cm) square of cheesecloth along with the sliced galangal and kaffir lime leaves. Wrap the cheesecloth into a sachet to fully enclose the aromatics and then securely tie it shut with kitchen twine. 

2 Pour the chicken stock into a 5-quart (4.7-liter) pot. Bring the stock to a boil over medium-high heat and then add the chicken and dried shiitake mushrooms. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. 

3 Add the coconut milk, sachet of aromatics, Thai chilies, fine sea salt, palm sugar, and fish sauce. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-low heat. Let the flavors infuse for 5 minutes. 

4 After 5 minutes, turn off the heat. Stir in the cilantro and Thai basil. Let sit for 5 minutes and then remove the herbs and sachet. Taste and then add the lime juice and additional fish sauce and palm sugar.

5 Serve in bowls topped with a few cilantro leaves, Thai basil, and a light drizzle of chili oil and serve with a side of steamed rice (if using). 

NOTE: Galangal can be substituted with ginger root, but please understand it will change some of the subtle flavors that ultimately make tom kha gai what it is. I recommend checking a local Asian grocery store to see if they have galangal, because many of them keep it stocked regularly.

The coconut milk is what adds incredible creaminess to this dish. Be sure to only use full-fat coconut milk to ensure the texture is correct. 

tom kha gai

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fried cauliflower

with castelvetrano-date relish

Fried cauliflower is probably one of the most underrated vegetable dishes of all time. It’s one of those things you probably say “No” to a million times but then there’s that one time when you say, “Well, you know what, I don’t know what else I want, so I might as well try this.” That moment could and should be right now—when you’re reading this. You won’t regret it.

The creaminess here doesn’t come from fat. It comes from the luxurious texture of fried cauliflower. When slightly overcooked via frying, cauliflower has a texture I think is very representative of “creaminess” in a different way than what you’d typically expect.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

12–16 minutes

yield

4 servings

¹/₂ cup (70g) Castelvetrano olives, pitted and roughly chopped

4 dates, pitted and finely chopped

1 serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped

¹/₃ cup (79ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp (2g) ground cumin

1 tbsp (3g) finely chopped parsley

1 tsp (2g) finely chopped thyme leaves

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste

Kosher salt, to taste

2 qt (1.9 liters) vegetable oil

1 head cauliflower, separated into florets

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for topping

1 In a medium bowl, combine the Castelvetrano olives, dates, serrano chili, extra-virgin olive oil, cumin, parsley, thyme, lemon juice, and kosher salt to taste. Mix until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

2 Add the vegetable oil to a 5-quart (4.7-liter) heavy-bottomed pot set over medium-high heat. Heat the oil to 375°F (190°C).

3 Working in batches, gently lower the cauliflower into the pot, being careful not to overfill the pot. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes or until the cauliflower is a deep golden brown and is about 80 percent cooked through.

4 Remove the cauliflower with a spider strainer, let the oil drain from the cauliflower over the pot for a few seconds, and transfer to a medium bowl. Season the fried cauliflower with salt and lemon juice to taste, and gently toss to coat.

5 On a large plate or platter, arrange the cauliflower in a single layer. Cover generously with the olive relish, and finish with freshly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese over the top.

fried cauliflower with castelvetrano-date relish

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chicken pot pie

The luxuriously silky, creamy texture of a nice chicken pot pie comes from two things: cream and a beautifully emulsified roux. But mostly cream. One thing you’ll notice is that its thickness is totally separate from the actual richness of the filling—and that’s because of the roux. It complements the creaminess rather than adding additional creaminess.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

55 minutes

yield

2 pot pies (8–10 servings)

1 lb (455g) Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

3 ears corn

5oz (140g) guanciale, diced into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

1 yellow onion, diced

2 celery sticks, diced

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

³/₄ cup (170g) unsalted butter, cubed

1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour

3 cups (750ml) chicken stock

1 cup (250ml) whole milk

¹/₂ cup (125ml) heavy whipping cream

4 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

3¹/₂ cups (450g) cubed cooked chicken

1 cup (120g) frozen peas

2 boxes (4 sheets) puff pastry

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

2 In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the Yukon Gold potatoes and carrots. Add just enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until softened but not mushy. Drain and set aside. Char the corn on a grill over high heat or directly over an open flame on the stovetop until lightly charred all over. Remove all the kernels, and set aside.

3 To a 5-quart (4.7-liter) saucepan over medium-low heat, add the guanciale and cook for 5 minutes or until crispy and most of the fat has rendered, stirring often. Increase the heat to medium, and add the yellow onion, celery, and garlic. Season to taste with kosher salt and black pepper, and sweat the vegetables for about 3 minutes or until softened, stirring occasionally.

4 Add the butter, and when fully melted and bubbling, stir in the all-purpose flour. Cook for 1 minute, stirring often. Add the chicken stock, stir, and then add the milk, heavy whipping cream, thyme, and bay leaves. Continue heating, stirring frequently, until thickened. Turn off the heat and add the cubed chicken, charred corn kernels, peas, potatoes, and carrots. Stir until all the ingredients are hot. Remove and discard the thyme and bay leaves. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

5 Unroll a sheet of puff pastry into the bottom of each of the two 9-inch (23cm) pie pans. Gently press the puff pastry into the pans and then trim the edges, leaving a little overhang. Immediately pour in the hot chicken filling. Top each with another layer of puff pastry. Seal the edges of the bottom and top crust, folding the bottom over the top all the way around the perimeter of each pie pan. Crimp the edges. Cut slits into the top of the pastry. Bake immediately for 30 to 35 minutes.

6 Remove the pot pies from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

chicken pot pie

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milk-braised pork

Is it weird this is something I used to make a lot when I was a kid? From my understanding, braising pork in milk comes from a long line of generational Italian family cooking. Those dang Italians really know what the hell they’re doing. One of my favorite cookbook authors, Marcella Hazan, was the first to introduce me to it. The milk adds creamy richness while also creating a shockingly delicious, silky, nutty sauce that goes exceptionally well with pork. Trust me here.

This seems like it belongs in the fatty, rich section of texture, right? Well, the reduction of the milk, along with the rendering pork fat, ends up creating a beautifully silky, rich sauce that reminds me a little of the texture that tonkotsu ramen has, which ultimately would be defined as creamy. This lends itself to many sides and many applications.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

3 hours 45 minutes

yield

6 servings

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) vegetable oil

3–4 lb (1.4–1.8kg) boneless Boston butt roast

Kosher salt and black pepper, for seasoning

2 cups (475ml) heavy whipping cream

2 cups (475ml) whole milk

3 sprigs sage

1 head garlic, split in half, skin on

2 shallots, quartered, skin on

2 bay leaves

Zest of 1 lemon

Parsley, for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper, for garnish

Lemon cheeks, for serving

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

2 Add the vegetable oil to a 5- to 7-quart (4.7- to 6.6-liter) Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Using a paper towel or a hand towel you’re okay with staining, pat the Boston butt roast dry until it’s as dry as possible. Season with kosher salt and black pepper on all sides. When the oil is hot and nearly smoking, add the pork and sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until each side is deeply browned.

3 Remove the pork and add the heavy whipping cream. Stir and scrape to remove any stuck bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the milk, bring to a simmer, and then reduce the heat to low. Return the pork to the simmering liquid, along with any juices that collected while sitting. Over the liquid, scatter the sage, garlic, shallots, and bay leaves. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 3¹/₄ to 3³/₄ hours or until the pork is fall-apart tender and a nice reduction sauce awaits you.

4 Remove the pork from the liquid and set aside. Place the pot over medium-high heat, and reduce the sauce, stirring often, until it clings to the back of a spoon. Turn off the heat, and stir in the lemon zest. Allow to infuse for 2 minutes, and then strain.

5 To serve, break the pork into chunks and arrange on a platter. Douse the pork with the sauce to your heart’s desire. Garnish with parsley, finish with freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy immediately.

milk-braised pork

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butternut risotto

with pancetta and fried sage

Risotto isn’t necessarily just creamy because of the butter or cheese that’s added. It’s creamy because of the emulsification that occurs with the starch as a result of the constant stirring and agitation of the rice.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

1 hour 20 minutes

yield

about 8 cups

1 small butternut squash

5–6 cups (1.3–1.5 liters) chicken stock

4oz (115g) pancetta, diced

8 sage leaves

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Kosher salt, to taste

Vegetable oil, as needed

1¹/₂ cups (275g) uncooked, unwashed arborio rice

2 tbsp (28g) cold unsalted butter

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Line a baking sheet with foil and grease lightly with vegetable oil or cooking spray.

2 Split the butternut squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds by scraping them out with a spoon. Grease the squash generously with vegetable oil or cooking spray. Place it cut side down on the baking sheet, and roast in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until very soft and mushy.

3 Remove the squash from the oven, and scrape out the flesh. In a blender, combine the flesh and ¹/₂ cup (120ml) chicken stock. Blend on high until very smooth and velvety. Add more stock if needed to blend.

4 In a medium pot over medium-low heat, cook the pancetta until it’s very crispy and has rendered out most of its fat, stirring often. Use a slotted spoon to remove all the crispy pancetta and drain on a paper towel. Increase the heat to medium, and add the sage to the same pot. Fry for 20 to 30 seconds, or until crispy and stiff. Remove and drain on paper towels.

5 In the same pot, combine the yellow onion, garlic, and kosher salt. (You might need to add more vegetable oil to the pancetta fat so it coats the entire bottom of the pan.) Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften.

6 In a separate saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the remaining chicken stock. (Be sure to keep it hot.)

7 To the pot with the onion and garlic, add the arborio rice. Toast for 30 seconds, stirring occasionally. While constantly stirring, ladle in about ¹/₃ cup (80ml) stock to the rice. Continue to stir and cook until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid. Repeat the process of adding stock until the rice is cooked through and al dente. This will take about 25 to 30 minutes. If you begin to run low on chicken stock, you can use more as needed.

8 Add 2 cups (500ml) of the butternut purée. Stir until hot. Turn off the heat, and mix in the cold butter until glossy and emulsified.

9 Place some risotto in the center of a plate, tapping the bottom of the plate with the palm of your hand to flatten the rice. Top with the crispy sage, pancetta, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, either grated or shaved. Season to taste with black pepper. Repeat this process with more plates. Serve immediately.

butternut risotto with pancetta and fried sage

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the perfect potato salad

Can potato salad really be perfect? Obviously, what you deem perfect depends on your personal preferences. But when you try this, there will simply be no denying that it holds a perfectly balanced creaminess, thanks to the sauce that surrounds it and the perfectly cooked potatoes.

prep time

30 minutes

cook time

25 minutes

yield

8 cups

Kosher salt, plus more to taste

3 lb (1.4kg) small Yukon Gold potatoes

³/₄ cup (175g) mayonnaise

¹/₄ cup (60g) crème fraîche

1 tbsp (15g) Dijon mustard

1 tsp (5ml) Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp (30ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tbsp (15ml) dill pickle juice

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 dill pickle, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, grated

2¹/₂ tbsp (10g) finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

2 tbsp (6g) finely chopped dill, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Fried shallots or fried onions (optional)

1 In a large pot of water salted with kosher salt over medium-high heat, boil the Yukon Gold potatoes for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they’re tender and can be easily pierced with a fork. (Note the time will increase or decrease depending on the size of the potatoes.) Drain and let stand at room temperature until cool enough to handle.

2 Use a paring or petty knife to carefully peel the potatoes. Cool in the fridge for at least 10 minutes or until completely cold.

3 In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, crème fraîche, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, dill pickle juice, shallot, dill pickle, garlic, parsley, and dill. Taste and season with salt and black pepper as needed.

4 Cut the potatoes into bite-sized chunks. Add to the mayo mixture. Season lightly with additional salt and then gently fold together until everything is thoroughly and evenly coated with the mayo mixture.

5 Serve in a nice serving bowl or on a serving platter. Top with additional fresh herbs and fried shallots or fried onions (if using).

the perfect potato salad

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root vegetable salad

While these vegetables are crunchy by nature, it’s the creamy dressing that makes the salad. We all know that.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

none

yield

6–8 servings

¹/₂ cup (115g) mayonnaise

¹/₄ cup (60g) crème fraîche

¹/₄ cup (60ml) buttermilk

4 garlic cloves, grated

2 tbsp (6g) finely chopped dill

1 tbsp (3g) finely chopped parsley

¹/₂ tsp (2g) onion powder

¹/₂ tsp (1g) celery seed powder

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 large carrots

¹/₂ celery root

2 beets (red and yellow)

1 large kohlrabi

2 tsp (10ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, crème fraîche, buttermilk, garlic, dill, parsley, onion powder, and celery seed powder. Season to taste with kosher salt and black pepper. Set aside.

2 Peel the carrots, celery root, beets, and kohlrabi. Cut them into matchsticks that are ¹/₄-inch thick (0.7cm) and 2¹/₂ to 3 inches long (6.4 to 7.6cm). Place the vegetables in a bowl of iced water to wash and crisp for 1 minute. Drain the vegetables and pat dry.

3 In a large bowl, combine the vegetables, mayo dressing, and lemon juice. Toss to coat thoroughly and then season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

root vegetable salad

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potatoes dauphinoise

I can already tell many of you are going to be intimidated merely by the audacity of the French fine dining verbiage above. Let me be your anxiety reliever today. If you know what potatoes au gratin is, then you know what this is. If you don’t know what potatoes au gratin is, then welcome to a magical land where everything is luscious potato layers and nothing can ever hurt you. Except your mouth, if you take a bite of this recipe right after baking it when it’s still as hot as the surface of the sun.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

45–55 minutes

yield

6–8 servings

2¹/₄ cups (530ml) whole milk

2¹/₄ cups (530ml) heavy whipping cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2¹/₂ lb (1.1kg) russet potatoes

3 sprigs thyme

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

4oz (113g) grated Gruyère cheese

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a 9- × 13-inch (23 × 33cm) baking dish with baking spray.

2 In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the milk and heavy whipping cream. Bring to a boil. As soon as it starts boiling, immediately reduce the heat to medium-low. Season with kosher salt and black pepper to taste. (It’s important to taste at this step because it’s the basis of flavor for your casserole.) Just barely under season the mixture.

3 Peel the russet potatoes, and slice into rounds about ¹/₈-inch (3mm) thick. (Using a mandoline for slicing is highly recommended to keep the slices the same thickness.) Add the potatoes and thyme to the simmering cream. Let simmer for about 5 minutes or until just barely fork-tender. Adjust the salt level at this point if it needs more.

4 Turn off the heat, remove the thyme, and add the garlic. Lightly swirl the pan to distribute the garlic.

5 Use a slotted spoon to carefully transfer the potatoes to the baking dish. Be sure not to break the potatoes when doing this. Pour just enough of the infused cream over the potatoes to coat each layer and leave a little bit of moisture inside, about 2 cups (500ml). Top with the Gruyère cheese, and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the top is browned and the potatoes are soft. Broil if you need the top more browned.

6 Allow to rest for 5 minutes at room temperature before serving.

potatoes dauphinoise

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perfectly baked mac and cheese

I usually don’t crave mac and cheese until I see it. Somehow, this happens every single time. If it worked for you here, then great—my job is done. This mac and cheese is creaminess and cheesiness incarnate. It doesn’t get any more luxurious on the palate in the world of Americanized cheesy pastas than this. It’s truly a beautiful thing.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

40 minutes

yield

6–8 servings

Kosher salt, to taste

1 lb (455g) uncooked elbow macaroni

3 cups (270g) shredded medium sharp cheddar cheese

3 cups (270g) shredded raclette or Gruyère cheese

¹/₂ cup (113g) unsalted butter

¹/₂ cup (75g) all-purpose flour

3 cups (750ml) whole milk

1¹/₄ cups (310ml) heavy whipping cream

1 Preheat the oven to 325° F (165°C). Grease a 3-quart (2.8-liter) baking dish with cooking spray or vegetable oil.

2 Fill a 5- to 6-quart (4.7- to 5.7-liter) pot about three-fourths full with water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Season generously with kosher salt. When the water is boiling, add the elbow macaroni. Cook according to the package directions, subtracting 1 to 2 minutes from the suggested time. You want it to be just under al dente.

3 In a medium bowl, combine the sharp cheddar cheese and raclette or Gruyère cheese. Set aside.

4 Drain the pasta in a colander. To the same pot over medium heat, add the butter. When the butter has melted, whisk in the all-purpose flour. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring often.

5 While constantly whisking, add in half of the milk. Stir until it begins to thicken, and then add the rest of the milk and all the heavy whipping cream. Continue to stir and heat until the mixture is glossy and lightly thickened.

6 Turn off the heat and whisk in half the cheese mixture. Continuously stir for 5 minutes, or until the cheese is completely melted and the sauce is glossy.

7 Add the cooked pasta to the cheese sauce, and fold until completely coated with the cheese. Season to taste with additional salt if needed. Immediately pour half the cheesy pasta into the prepared baking dish. Add half the remaining cheese mixture, followed by the other half of the cheesy pasta, and finally top with the remaining cheese mixture.

8 Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until bubbly and melted. Turn on the broiler and lightly brown the top to your liking. Serve immediately while hot.

perfectly baked mac and cheese

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lavender crème brûlée

If you haven’t made crème brûlée, this is me essentially (gently) forcing you to make it.

prep time

5 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

50 minutes

yield

4 servings

2 cups (500ml) heavy whipping cream

¹/₂ cup (125ml) whole milk

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 tsp (3g) culinary lavender

Pinch of kosher salt

5 egg yolks

¹/₂ cup (100g) sugar, plus more for topping

1 Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).

2 In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the heavy whipping cream, milk, vanilla bean, lavender, and kosher salt. Heat until steamy hot, and then turn off the heat. Allow to infuse for 3 to 4 minutes.

3 To a medium bowl, add the egg yolks. Strain ¹/₃ of the cream mixture into the egg yolks, 1 teaspoon (5ml) at a time. Mix to combine and slightly warm the egg yolks. Strain the rest of the cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture. Stir until thoroughly combined.

4 Pour the custard mixture into four 6-ounce (180ml) ramekins. Place the ramekins in a baking dish large enough to hold them all. Fill the dish halfway with boiling water, and place in the oven to bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the centers are just barely set. Remove the ramekins from the oven, and cool completely at room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

5 When ready to serve, top each custard with a thin coating of sugar—about 1 to 2 teaspoons (4 to 8g)—that covers the custard from edge to edge. If you’re using a kitchen torch, carefully brush the tops with the flame until the sugar has melted and browned. If you’re using a broiler, place the ramekins 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6cm) from the heat source and broil for about 3 to 5 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before serving.

lavender crème brûlée

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tres leches

I have a problem when it comes to tres leches. The problem is I can’t leave tres leches in my refrigerator. I don’t know why, but all (if any) of my eating self-control goes directly out the window until that thing is gone. Either by my hand or by the hand of a real hero.

prep time

10 minutes plus 1 hour or overnight

cook time

25 minutes

yield

10–12 servings

Cake:

1¹/₄ cups (185g) all-purpose flour

1 tsp (5g) baking powder

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

¹/₂ cup (113g) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup (200g) granulated sugar

5 large eggs (at room temperature)

2 egg yolks (at room temperature)

1 tsp (5ml) pure vanilla extract

The three milks (hence the name):

1¹/₂ cups (375ml) whole milk

1 (14oz [400g]) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (12oz [340g]) can evaporated milk

Seeds from 1 vanilla bean

Whipped cream:

2¹/₂ cups (625ml) heavy whipping cream

¹/₃ cup (34g) powdered sugar

Ground cinnamon, for dusting

Raspberries, for serving

To make the cake:

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Generously coat a 9- × 13-inch (23 × 33cm) baking pan with baking spray.

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, baking powder, and fine sea salt until combined.

3 In a separate medium bowl, combine the butter and granulated sugar. Use a handheld mixer to beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the whole eggs, beating them in one at a time, followed by the egg yolks and vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, and mix until combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

4 Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool to room temperature.

To make the three milks:

1 In a medium bowl, combine the whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and vanilla beans. When the mixture is homogeneous, prick the cake all over with a fork. Be sure to go all the way to the bottom if you can, without tearing the cake. Pour the milk mixture over the cooled cake.

2 Cover with plastic wrap and allow to soak in the fridge for at least 1 hour but ideally overnight.

To make the whipped cream and serve:

1 When ready to serve, in a medium bowl, use a whisk or a handheld mixer to beat the heavy whipping cream until it begins to thicken. Add the powdered sugar and continue to beat until there are soft peaks.

2 Spread the whipped cream over the top of the cake. Serve right away dusted with cinnamon and topped with raspberries or keep covered in the fridge for up to 2 days.

tres leches

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fluid

Fluid | CONTENTS

introduction to fluid

birria tacos

asparagus soup

caramelized onion miso soup

diner-style milkshakes

my favorite smoothie

the ideal steak for two

josh’s jungle juice

minestrone

matzoh ball soup

caldo de res

italian beef

italian hot chocolate

traditional consommé

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what is fluid?

Fluidity…liquidity…it sounds like we’re in some sort of finance class. I think we can all find something special about a drenched birria taco dripping with spicy consommé, or a warm and cozy bowl of pho wafting its fragrant spiced broth in the air. I would say that liquid textures are the most neglected of all the textures. Fluid is almost not even considered a texture. It seems nobody really thinks of soups as their own texture category. They are just kind of there, and we tend to eat them only during certain parts of the year. So you mean to tell me I need to be shivering in the cold to enjoy a nice soup? No way, man. I can still enjoy a nice bowl of ramen, even if it’s summertime, and if it’s good enough, I’m sure you’ll rally too. Drinking our sustenance has been a beloved ritual for just about every generation since the dawn of time. The only difference is that it doesn’t take a Neanderthal to realize that fluids are important to the overall story of texture.

I would classify a food to be in the fluid category based on its primary experience. Let’s look at the birria tacos that are in this chapter. There are a lot of textures in this dish: it’s chewy, fatty, and sometimes a little crunchy. But there is one thing that separates these tacos from the hundreds and hundreds of different tacos that each contain unique fillings, or use different types of tortillas, or employ different techniques and methods of cooking, and that difference is the beloved consommé. The reason birria has become so celebrated and popularized is that alluring, luxurious, deep-and-dark red broth, with droplets of fat, fresh cilantro, and bits of sweet white onion floating on top. A slow, lustful, and sensual dunk in this broth will transform the glistening, perfect, red-hued taco into a vehicle for what looks to be the juiciest, most flavorful bite of taco in your life. Now, I’m just talking about what it looks like, let alone its texture. It’s in the texture that you can really see how the addition of a fluid component changes everything for this taco. And that is the power of something that previously might have seemed intangible as a subject but now kind of highlights what I’m trying to point out.

Foods that are fluid are, of course, moist by nature, but they also provide moisture to certain foods; they rehydrate things, they coat your whole palate when you take a bite, they obviously carry flavor, and they allow you to eat a large and satisfying volume of something. These are all just basic characteristics of the types of foods that belong in the category of fluidity. Of course, if you’re feeling it, you can add other textures to something like a soup if you want to create a multisensory experience. But I think that everyone can agree that there is nothing wrong with sipping a nice broth with absolutely nothing in it. As a matter of fact, I think there are many of us who actually look forward to that last half cup or so of soup at the bottom of the bowl. The vegetables and proteins are gone, and all that remains is the flavor-concentrated elixir that, for many people, is a sacred moment to cherish—almost like it was saved to be the dessert to your meal. And it’s the combination of both the flavor and the sipping from the bowl that makes that moment…even if it’s a little bit cringe to see in a dining room.

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what is a fluid texture?

Fluidity in food refers specifically to the types of foods or sauces we eat that are either in a liquid or semiliquid state. Obviously, this includes things like soups and broths, but also some of our other favorites, like smoothies, milkshakes, juices, and purées. I also would make the argument that there are other things we eat that fall into this category because the texture component that draws your attention might be juiciness more than anything else. Take my birria taco story from earlier. A birria taco is great, but what makes it so alluring to the world and what has popularized it so much isn’t the tender, fatty meat inside the taco. It’s the bowl of hot, steaming, spicy-and-salty broth that you dunk the tacos in, every single savory bite needing another napkin while you’re simultaneously enjoying an unctuous soup with your taco. One bite and it’s the polar opposite of something dry. With something so juicy and moist, you just have to go in for another bite. That, to me, is the highlight texture that makes birria so incredibly special, and that puts it into the fluid category, in my opinion.

Here are the ways liquidy or juicy foods and beverages can create experiences:

Temperature: One of the first things I notice when I eat or drink anything is temperature. Hot soups or broths can provide warmth and comfort, maybe even a little bit of relaxation. I’m sure we could look into the sensory experiences of that, but it could be simplified into something that I think virtually every human being can agree on: a cold day outside and a hot bowl of soup go together perfectly. It’s the classic, redundant story that is also incredibly accurate and true. In the same vein, cold beverages and chilled soups can offer a refreshing respite on a hot day. Temperature even plays a role in releasing aroma compounds, which in turn affect the overall flavor perception. So, yes, hot soup will have a taste and a texture that are noticeably different from that of a cold soup.

Aroma: The sheer amount of steam from a hot soup or broth is way more noticeable than, say, from a hot sandwich or plate of fried chicken. That hot soup is 100 percent going to greet you with its wafting aroma. The volatile compounds responsible for the scent are released as the food warms, especially in hot soups and broths. The aroma of the food is an essential part of the overall sensory experience.

Flavor: Upon taking the first sip or bite, something that has a higher level of fluidity is going to fully coat your palate and engage every last one of your taste buds, allowing you to perceive a medley of flavors. The balance of sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami elements in the liquid creates a harmonious taste profile that can be simple or complex, depending on the ingredients and preparation.

Mouthfeel: The texture and viscosity of liquidy foods and beverages contribute to their mouthfeel. Creamy soups and smoothies have a velvety, rich sensation, while clear broths and juices are lighter and more refreshing. The thickness or thinness of the liquid impacts its palate-coating properties and the overall sensory experience.

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why do we love fluid textures, even though we never talk about them?

Let’s start with soup. It’s the perception of its comfort and nourishment when we don’t feel well. It’s a way we can enjoy maximum flavor in a vehicle that’s comfortable for anyone, in almost any state, to consume. It’s almost like the first-aid kit of the food world. You already know it’s in a good place if what you’re eating is equally touted as medicine. If I can eat a bowl of pho and tell my doctor to f—k off, I’m a happy camper. Just like creamy foods, foods that are liquidy tend to carry flavor exceptionally well, and they’re also extremely versatile. You can make a variety of soups or stews using different ingredient combinations that will lead you to ramen, chowders, and cheap-but-delicious bean stews. So you can essentially pick whatever you want, based on your individual preference and dietary needs. (That’s assuming you have any sort of dietary needs.) Not to mention that you can make a lot of these foods very easily in large quantities due to the nature of creating them. Soup is simply one of the most convenient line items in the world of cooking. It will almost certainly leave you with more product than you started with, and it will keep well in the freezer, practically in perpetuity. You would essentially be putting flavor in cryostasis in a way.

Foods with a liquid element are also refreshing. Not just in the way we look at a tall, cool glass of water on a hot day. It gives a refreshing quality to something that might be a bit naturally dry or could use a little leverage from some additional “juice,” so to speak. A French dip or a Chicago-style Italian beef is a great example of this. Without the hot broth you’re dunking those sandwiches in, they simply wouldn’t be the same; they seriously benefit from a hot dunk in a nice, salty broth.

Maybe everything, in its own way, would simply be better with a bowl of soup on the side. That’s why we’re here talking about it now, to introduce something we don’t give enough respect to and see what kind of magic comes from it. To simplify, one of the greatest attributes of fluid textures is their ability to take any shape, coating absolutely anything and everything with flavor. It is a texture with no walls and no boundaries.

How to use fluid foods:

To add moisture to dry foods or to something that has been overcooked.

To create a refreshing element to a dish.

As an amuse-bouche (a small, savory hors d’oeuvre) to a full meal.

To create a healing and warming element to a dish.

To create any soup, whether traditional or on the fly. (To do so, simply start with a broth base, add your desired vegetables and proteins, and let it simmer. Done.)

HERE’S AN EXAMPLE OF HOW FLAVOR CAN FILL A SPACE. SURE, A STEAK IS ONE PILE OF CONCENTRATED FLAVOR…BUT IN THE WORLD OF FLUIDITY, FLAVOR CAN TAKE ALL SHAPES AND SIZES!

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types of fluidity (determined by viscosity)

Use the consistency to determine what you want the end product to be.

THIN: BROTH, JUICE, SOME SOUPS

MILDLY THICK: SOME SOUPS, SAUCES

THICK (SUITED FOR FINISHING): HONEY, SMOOTHIES, SOME SYRUPS

EXTREMELY THICK: MALTOSE, PUDDING

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birria tacos

I’m fully aware that these tacos fit in so many different texture categories. They could be chewy; they could be fatty; etc. But what separates these tacos more than anything else is the steaming hot bowl of broth you recklessly dunk them into. It’s the half soup, half meal that makes them truly special.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

3 hours 40 minutes

yield

8 tacos

1¹/₂ lb (680g) oxtails

2 lb (910g) bone-in short ribs

1¹/₂ lb (680g) boneless chuck roast

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil

1 yellow onion, roughly chopped

2 heads garlic, split in half widthwise

2 tbsp (20g) tomato paste

2 bay leaves

1 tbsp (10g) whole black peppercorns

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) cumin seeds

1 cinnamon stick

4 sprigs oregano

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) beef stock

2 ancho chili peppers

3 guajillo chili peppers

3 chile de árbol peppers

Small pinch of sugar

8 taco-size corn tortillas, for serving

2 cups (220g) shredded Oaxaca cheese

1 medium lime, cut into cheeks, for serving

1 Pat the oxtails, short ribs, and chuck roast dry with paper towels and then season with kosher salt and black pepper.

2 In a heavy-bottomed 7-quart (6.6-liter) pot over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil. When the oil is shimmering and just starting to smoke, add the meat in batches and sear for about 2 minutes per side or until deeply browned on all sides. Remove the meat from the pot, and set aside on a plate.

3 Add the yellow onion and garlic to the pot. Sauté until fragrant. Add the tomato paste, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until it begins to caramelize.

4 To a small sheet of cheesecloth, add the bay leaves, black peppercorns, cumin seeds, cinnamon stick, and oregano. Wrap the cheesecloth into a sachet to fully enclose the spices and then securely tie it shut with kitchen twine.

5 Add the beef stock to the pot. Bring to a boil and then add the spice sachet, browned beef, and any juice that collected on the plate. Add the ancho chili peppers, guajillo chili peppers, and chile de árbol peppers. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2¹/₂ to 3 hours or until the beef is extremely tender.

6 When the beef is done cooking, remove and discard the spice sachet, and then use tongs to carefully transfer the softened peppers to a blender along with 2 cups (475ml) cooking liquid from the pot. (Be careful to avoid transferring any bones that might be in the liquid.) Transfer the meat to a large heatproof bowl.

7 Blend the pepper mixture on high until as smooth as possible and then add the mixture to the broth. Season the broth to taste with salt and a pinch of sugar.

8 Remove any bones from the beef while it’s warm, and shred the meat as finely as possible. (Don’t throw away the fat—let it get blended into the shredded meat.) Add a small splash of the broth to the beef. Season to taste with salt if needed, and then mix until combined.

9 At this point, you can assemble the tacos by filling the heated tortillas with the beef and Oaxaca cheese and serve with the broth (also called consommé) on the side to dip in, but my recommendation is to make these into proper cheesy birria tacos (called quesatacos).

10 To make the tacos, generously coat a large, heavy-bottomed pan with cooking spray. Preheat the pan over medium heat. When the pan is hot, dip a corn tortilla in the broth and place it in the hot pan. On one half of the tortilla, add the desired amount of meat along with a small handful of the Oaxaca cheese. Fold the empty side over the filled side to form what’s essentially a mini quesadilla. Cook until the cheese begins to melt and the side of the tortilla touching the pan is crispy and browned. Flip and repeat on the other side until crispy and the cheese is fully melted.

11 Repeat with as many tortillas as you like. (You can make multiple birria tacos in one pan—it just gets a little tricky.) Serve with lime cheeks and a ramekin of the broth on the side.

birria tacos

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asparagus soup

I used to think asparagus didn’t have much flavor. So why would you want it in liquid form, right? Isn’t it all about the texture of a grilled or sautéed asparagus that makes it nice? That’s the beauty of turning something like this into, well, a liquid! It forces you to focus on those really delicate flavors we usually overlook, such as the freshness and the gentle green notes that occur naturally in this vegetable. This recipe might just change your life…well, in the context of asparagus at least.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

4–6 servings

2 lb (907g) green asparagus

3¹/₂ tbsp (50g) unsalted butter

2 shallots, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Kosher salt, to taste

5¹/₂ cups (1.3 liters) chicken stock

³/₄ cup (180ml) crème fraîche

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 Remove 2 inches (5cm) from the tips of 8 asparagus spears. Cut each tip in half and reserve for garnishing. Cut all remaining asparagus spears into ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm) chunks.

2 In a medium heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the shallots and garlic. Season to taste with kosher salt. Sauté for 4 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened, stirring often.

3 Add the asparagus chunks, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until they begin to soften, stirring often. Add the chicken stock, and simmer for 18 minutes or until the asparagus is very soft.

4 In a stand blender, purée the soup in 2 to 3 batches until extremely smooth, transferring each finished batch to a large bowl. When all the soup has been puréed, pour it back into the pot. Season to taste with salt and then stir in the crème fraîche. Season to taste with just 1 teaspoon (5ml) lemon juice, adding more if desired.

5 Place the asparagus tips in a small bowl. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt, and extra-virgin olive oil. Toss to coat nicely.

6 Serve hot, garnishing each bowl of soup with a few asparagus tips, a small drizzle of olive oil, and black pepper.

asparagus soup

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caramelized onion miso soup

If you like miso soup, then prepare to never like another miso soup other than this one ever again.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

1 hour 5 minutes

yield

about 6 cups

Fortified dashi:

3¹/₂ cups (828ml) water

2 cups (475ml) chicken stock

1 large sheet of kombu

1 cup (40g) bonito flakes

Miso soup:

2 tbsp (28g) unsalted butter

2 medium sweet onions, thinly sliced

Pinch of sugar

Kosher salt, to taste

¹/₄ lb (115g) fresh shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced

¹/₃ cup (100g) miso

2 green onions, thinly sliced

7oz (200g) soft tofu, diced

1 To make the fortified dashi, in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the water, chicken stock, and kombu. Adjust the temperature as necessary to avoid boiling, and hold the mixture at a steamy heat for 10 minutes.

2 After 10 minutes, remove and discard the kombu and add the bonito flakes. Increase the heat so the dashi comes to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 seconds. Turn off the heat. Let the bonito flakes sit for 8 minutes, and then strain through a fine-mesh strainer and into a large heatproof bowl, pressing any remaining liquid in the bonito through the strainer. Discard the used bonito flakes.

3 To make the miso soup, in a medium pot over medium heat, cook the butter until melted and hot. Add the sweet onions and a pinch of sugar and then lightly salt to taste. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook for 25 minutes, stirring often, until you have nice, dark, caramelized onions. (If the ingredients begin to burn on the bottom of the pan, add a small splash of water and then stir to loosen any bits.)

4 Increase the heat to medium, and add the shiitake mushrooms, onions, and a touch of salt to taste. Sauté for 3 minutes or until softened. Stir in the fortified dashi. Increase the heat to medium, and cook until steamy hot.

5 Place a fine-mesh strainer over the pot. Pour the miso through the strainer and into the broth while whisking aggressively until most of the miso has run through the strainer and into the broth. (There will be some coarse bits of miso left in the strainer. Discard those.) Keep the soup hot but not boiling, and then add the green onions and tofu. Serve immediately.

caramelized onion miso soup

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diner-style milkshakes

This tastes like the milkshake I always wanted to try from the movie The Iron Giant. If you know, you know.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

2 minutes

yield

2 servings

Milkshake:

1¹/₂ cups (225g) cortado ice cream (or use vanilla ice cream)

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) whole milk

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) homemade chocolate sauce

2 tbsp (15g) malted milk powder

Chocolate, for topping

Luxardo maraschino cherries, for topping

Homemade chocolate sauce:

¹/₂ cup (56g) unsweetened cocoa powder

³/₄ cup (150g) granulated sugar

¹/₄ cup (50g) light brown sugar

¹/₄ tsp (1g) fine sea salt

¹/₂ cup (125ml) water

2 tsp (10ml) vanilla bean paste, or pure vanilla extract

Whipped cream:

1 cup (250ml) cold heavy whipping cream

3 tbsp (36g) granulated sugar

1 To make the homemade chocolate sauce, in a medium pan over medium-high heat, whisk together the cocoa powder, granulated sugar, brown sugar, fine sea salt, and water. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 30 to 45 seconds, stirring continuously, and then remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla bean paste or extract and set aside to cool before using.

2 To make the whipped cream, in a medium bowl, beat the heavy whipping cream with a whisk or handheld blender while adding the sugar, 1 tablespoon (12g) at a time, until all the sugar has been added and the mixture is thick with soft peaks. Set aside.

3 To make the milkshake, in a blender, combine the ice cream, whole milk, homemade chocolate sauce, and malted milk powder. Blend on high until smooth. Add additional chocolate sauce to suit your taste, if desired.

4 Pour the milkshake into the container of your choice. Spoon the whipped cream on top. (Alternatively, pour the whipped cream into a piping bag with a star tip attached and squeeze the whipped cream on top of the milkshake.) Finely grate chocolate over the top and add 1 Luxardo maraschino cherry on each. Enjoy immediately.

diner-style milkshakes

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my favorite smoothie

Obviously, it’s hard to nail down whether this is truly the greatest smoothie of all time. There’s no such thing. It all comes down to what you like in your smoothie. So instead, I’d like this smoothie to act as a baseline for you. To your heart’s desire, try adding the different fruits you enjoy to this smoothie’s base and watch it transform into your all-time favorite.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

none

yield

2¹/₂ cups

1 medium banana, peeled and frozen

1 cup (200g) frozen pineapple chunks

¹/₂-in (10g) knob of ginger

¹/₂ cup (118ml) water, chilled

³/₄ cup (175ml) orange juice

Honey or maple syrup, for sweetening (optional)

2 tbsp (20g) toasted almonds, very finely chopped, plus more for garnish

1 tbsp (6g) toasted shredded coconut

Sliced fresh banana, for garnishing (optional)

Sliced fresh pineapple, for garnishing (optional)

1 Combine the banana, pineapple, ginger, water, and orange juice in a blender. Blend until as smooth as possible. Sweeten with honey or maple syrup, (if using), and blend again to incorporate.

2 Fill the bottom of a large cup with the almonds and coconut.

3 Pour the smoothie into the cup and on top of the almonds and coconut. Garnish with sliced banana, pineapple, and more chopped almonds, (if using).

my favorite smoothie

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the ideal steak for two

A steak is special on its own. Oftentimes, I think it doesn’t really need much of a sauce. Ironically, though, every time I make a nice sauce, like this rich caper pan sauce, I realize it can be the difference between a decent steak and an unforgettable one.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

15 minutes

yield

2 servings

3 tbsp (45ml) vegetable oil, plus more

2 strip loin steaks (1–1¹/₂ in [2.5cm–3.8cm] thick)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season the steaks

1 small shallot, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

¹/₄ cup (60ml) red wine

¹/₂ cup (125ml) rich beef stock

3 sprigs thyme

2 tbsp (28g) cold unsalted butter

3 tbsp (36g) capers

2 tbsp (6g) thinly sliced chives

1 In a 12-inch (30.5cm) stainless-steel or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil. Pat the strip loin steaks completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with kosher salt and black pepper.

2 When the oil is shimmering and just starting to smoke, add the steaks and sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side. At this point, if your steaks are 1-inch (2.5cm) thick, they should be about medium-rare or have an internal temperature of 135°F (60°C). If they’re still too rare, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, flipping constantly, until they reach medium-rare. Remove the steaks from the pan, and set them on a cutting board to rest.

3 Reduce the heat to medium, and add the shallot and garlic to the pan. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until softened. (If your pan is a bit dry at this point, add 1 tablespoon (18ml) vegetable oil.) When the vegetables are softened, add the red wine, beef stock, and thyme. Increase the heat to medium-high, and bring the mixture to a boil while scraping the stuck bits of beef from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the sauce for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it begins to thicken slightly and lightly coats the back of a spoon.

4 Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the butter. Constantly stir and swirl the pan until the butter is completely melted and emulsified into the sauce. Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer and into a small bowl. Taste and season with additional salt, if desired. Stir in the capers.

5 Add the steaks to a plate. (You can slice them or leave them whole.) To serve, spoon the sauce directly over the steaks, and then garnish with the chives and additional pepper. Serve with any sides of your choice.

the ideal steak for two

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josh’s jungle juice

It’s jungle juice. You know what to do.

prep time

4 hours 30 minutes

cook time

none

yield

4 gallons

1 gal (3.8 liters) freshly squeezed orange juice

1 gal (3.8 liters) pineapple juice

1 qt (950ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 qt (950ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

750ml bottle mezcal

¹/₂ cup (125ml) Campari

1¹/₂ tsp (7g) smoked salt

4 kaffir lime leaves, crushed by hand

1 qt (950ml) club soda, chilled

1 orange (any variety), sliced

1 lime, sliced

1 lemon, sliced

1 cup (150g) diced fresh pineapple

1 In a large beverage dispenser or punch bowl that holds at least 4 gallons (15 liters), combine the orange juice, pineapple juice, lemon juice, lime juice, mezcal, Campari, smoked salt, and kaffir lime leaves. Stir to combine.

2 Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 3 to 4 hours but ideally overnight. (The longer you let it sit, the more the kaffir lime leaf flavor will infuse into the juice.) Don’t refrigerate for more than 24 hours.

3 Gently stir in the club soda. Top with the orange slices, lime slices, lemon slices, and diced pineapple.

4 Serve in chilled glasses filled with ice.

josh’s jungle juice

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minestrone

Somehow, I’ve managed to make minestrone only once. This is where I started.

prep time

15 minutes

cook time

40 minutes

yield

3 quarts (2.9 liters)

2 tbsp (30ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3oz (85g) guanciale, cubed

2 medium carrots, peeled and diced

1 large yellow onion, diced

5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 celery sticks, diced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 (28oz [800g]) can diced tomatoes

1 large Yukon Gold potato, peeled and cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) cubes

2 qt (1.9 liters) chicken stock

¹/₂ tsp (3g) ground fennel

4 sprigs oregano

1 cup (135g) uncooked small pasta

1¹/₂ cups (400g) cooked and drained white beans or 1 (15oz [425g]) can, drained

¹/₂ cup (25g) finely chopped parsley

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

1 In a large pot over medium-low heat, combine the extra-virgin olive oil and guanciale. Cook, stirring frequently, for 7 to 10 minutes or until the guanciale is crisp, browned, and has rendered most of its fat.

2 Increase the heat to medium, and add the carrots, yellow onion, garlic, and celery. Season to taste with kosher salt and black pepper. Sauté for 4 minutes or until the vegetables begin to soften, stirring frequently.

3 Increase the heat to medium-high, and add the tomatoes, Yukon Gold potato, chicken stock, fennel, and oregano. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are fork-tender.

4 Add the pasta and white beans. Simmer for 10 minutes more or until the pasta is cooked through.

5 Remove the oregano sprigs. Stir in the parsley and then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in bowls with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese sprinkled over the top.

minestrone

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matzoh ball soup

As you might be able to tell from my last name, it’s important I don’t f—k this recipe up. This is the best way to introduce someone to classic Jewish food. It has a special place in my heart. Plus, you get to eat balls, so there’s ample time for jokes in there somewhere.

prep time

1 hour 10 minutes

cook time

1 hour 25 minutes

yield

3¹/₂ qt (3.3 liters)

4 large eggs

5 tbsp (60g) rendered chicken fat (schmaltz), gently melted

1 tsp (5g) kosher salt, plus more to taste

¹/₂ tsp (2g) baking powder

1 cup (60g) homemade matzoh meal

3 tbsp (45ml) water

4 qt (3.8 liters) chicken stock (please, homemade, dear God)

2–3 tbsp (30–45ml) vegetable oil

4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

1 medium yellow onion, diced

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste and for garnish

5 sage leaves

3 sprigs thyme

1 bay leaf

2 medium carrots, diced

3 celery sticks, diced

Dill, for garnish

Homemade matzoh meal (optional):

2¹/₂ cups (325g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

¹/₂ tsp (3g) fine sea salt

1¹/₄ cups (296ml) water

To make the homemade matzoh meal:

1 Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2 In a medium bowl, combine the all-purpose flour and salt, and then stir in the water. Knead for about 3 to 4 minutes or until the dough is smooth. Divide into 10 evenly sized pieces, and then roll each piece out as thinly as possible, dusting with additional flour as needed.

3 Place the dough on the prepared baking sheets so they’re not touching. Use a fork to prick each piece of dough over the entire surface. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, and then remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely on a wire rack. (If you need to use more than two baking sheets, just rotate each sheet in batches, rolling the dough and loading a baking sheet while one filled sheet is in the oven. Repeat as needed.)

4 When the matzoh is cooled, it should be dry and crisp. Blitz in a food processor until as fine as possible.

To make the matzoh ball soup:

1 In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and melted chicken fat. (Make sure the fat isn’t so hot that it cooks the eggs.) Whisk in the salt and baking powder. Whisk in the homemade matzoh meal until completely smooth. Add the water, and stir until smooth. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, divide the chicken stock into two different pots. In one pot, add 1¹/₂ quarts (1.4 liters) of the stock. Set aside. In a separate pot, add enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom of the pot. Heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is ripping hot, add the chicken thighs skin side down and sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until nicely browned. Remove the thighs from the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and add the yellow onion. Season to taste with salt and then sauté for about 2 minutes or just before it begins to soften. Add the remaining 2¹/₂ quarts (2.4 liters) of stock. Lightly season both pots with kosher salt and a touch of black pepper.

3 Bring the pot with the onion to a boil over medium-high heat, and then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Add the chicken thighs, sage, thyme, and bay leaf to the simmering veggie-stock mixture.

4 When the matzoh ball dough is ready to shape, bring the other pot to a boil over medium-high heat and then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Using wet hands—and rewetting them as needed—form the dough into 1-inch (2.5cm) balls. Place them in the simmering pot of stock. Cover both pots, and simmer for 1 hour.

5 When there’s 15 minutes left in the simmering time, add the carrots and celery to the pot with the chicken and onion. Continue cooking until the simmering time is complete.

6 Remove the chicken thighs and herbs from the stock with the veggies. Discard the herbs. Place the chicken thighs on a cutting board, and use two forks to shred the chicken into small pieces. Return it to the pot, and discard the bones and skin.

7 Use a slotted spoon to transfer 3 matzoh balls to each serving bowl. Ladle in the broth, along with the veggies and chicken. Garnish with fresh dill and a touch of freshly ground black pepper.

matzoh ball soup

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caldo de res

This is one of my most favorite soups. This might as well go in every single texture category. Of course, the focus is its rich and unctuous broth, but the various textures that play alongside this special broth are what make you constantly want to go back for more.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

3 hours 30 minutes

yield

5 quarts (4.8 liters)

2 lb (910g) sliced beef shanks (osso buco)

1 lb (455g) oxtails

4 short ribs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2¹/₂ tbsp (37ml) vegetable oil

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

1 (14.5oz [411g]) can diced tomatoes

2 tsp (5g) ground cumin

1 tsp (2g) cayenne

1 tsp (2g) smoked paprika

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground cinnamon

2 qt (1.9 liters) beef stock

2 Yukon Gold potatoes, skin on, cut into ¹/₂-in (1.3cm) chunks

2 jalapeños, thinly sliced

2 large carrots, roughly chopped

3 celery sticks, roughly copped

2 ears of corn, cut into thirds

1 small green cabbage, cut into eighths

Heaping ¹/₄ cup (20g) finely chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

2 serrano chilis, thinly sliced, for garnish

2 limes, cut into wedges, for garnish

1 Pat dry the beef shanks, oxtails, and short ribs with paper towels. Season with kosher salt and black pepper.

2 In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil. When the oil is hot and nearly smoking, add the meat in batches to avoid overcrowding. Sear each batch for 1 to 2 minutes per side or until the meat is nicely browned on all sides. Repeat until all the meat has been browned.

3 Add all the meat back in, as well as the onion, tomatoes, cumin, cayenne, smoked paprika, cinnamon, and beef stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low. Cover with the lid and simmer for 3 hours or until the meat is very tender.

4 Add the Yukon Gold potatoes, jalapeños, carrots, celery, corn, and green cabbage. Simmer for 20 minutes more or until everything is softened. Stir in the cilantro.

5 Serve hot in bowls, and top with additional cilantro, serrano chilis, and lime wedges.

caldo de res

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italian beef

My director and VP, Vicram, introduced me to this sandwich. I don’t know how this went under my radar. I’d put this sandwich somewhere in my top five greatest sandwich types of all time. Thanks, Vicram. ☺

prep time

15 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

1 hour 25 minutes

yield

4 sandwiches

Hot giardiniera:

1 tbsp (10g) celery seeds

1 tbsp (10g) whole black peppercorns

7 sprigs oregano

4 banana peppers, thinly sliced

2 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced

5 celery sticks, thinly sliced

4 serrano chilis, thinly sliced

1¹/₂ cups (375ml) distilled white vinegar

³/₄ cup (185ml) water

1¹/₂ tbsp (25g) kosher salt

3 tbsp (36g) sugar

1 cup (250ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Sandwiches:

4 lb (1.8kg) beef top round roast

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Vegetable oil, for cooking

3 qt (2.8 liters) rich beef stock

1 tsp (2g) red pepper chili flakes

1 tbsp (10g) paprika

1 tbsp (10g) celery seeds

3 heads garlic, each cut in half

1 medium yellow onion, quartered

1 bay leaf

8 sprigs oregano

4 large French rolls

To make the hot giardiniera:

1 To a small piece of cheesecloth, add the celery seeds, black peppercorns, and oregano. Wrap the cheesecloth into a sachet to fully enclose the spices and then securely tie it shut with kitchen twine. Place the sachet in the bottom of a 1-quart (950ml) canning jar. Add the banana peppers, carrots, celery, and serrano chilis.

2 In a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the distilled white vinegar, water, kosher salt, and sugar. Bring to a boil. Pour the hot vinegar mixture into the jar and over the vegetables.

3 Add the extra-virgin olive oil. Give the mixture a stir to ensure everything is hydrated and submerged in the liquid. Let sit at room temperature until completely cool. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for weeks.

To make the sandwiches:

1 Season the top round roast generously with salt and black pepper to taste. Add enough vegetable oil to a large Dutch oven to just coat the bottom. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it’s shimmering and nearly smoking. Add the roast, and sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until all the sides are browned. Add the beef stock and then nestle the chili flakes, paprika, celery seeds, garlic, yellow onion, bay leaf, and oregano around the roast.

2 Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for about 1 hour or until the internal temperature of the beef reads 130°F (55°C) on a meat thermometer.

3 Remove the cooked roast from the Dutch oven, and let it cool on a wire rack until it reaches room temperature. When cool, wrap the roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Strain the beef stock through a fine-mesh sieve and into a large airtight container. Seal with a lid, and transfer to the fridge. Allow the roast and broth to chill in the fridge overnight.

4 The next day, slice the beef as thinly as possible while it’s still cold. (If you have one, use a deli meat slicer for this task. If you don’t, you can use a large sharp knife.)

5 When you’re ready to serve, heat the beef broth in a large saucepan over medium heat. Season to taste with salt. When it’s steamy hot, add the sliced beef and heat just enough to keep it warm. (Don’t allow the broth to boil.)

To assemble the sandwiches:

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

2 Slice the four French rolls enough so you can open them, but the top and bottom halves remain fully attached on one side. Individually wrap the rolls in foil and place them in the oven until hot, about 5 to 8 minutes.

3 Generously fill the hot rolls with the sliced hot beef. (Pile it high!) Dunk both ends of each sandwich into the hot broth and then fill the open side generously with the hot giardiniera. Individually wrap the sandwiches in parchment or sandwich paper, and serve immediately.

italian beef

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italian hot chocolate

Frankly, I don’t know how traditional my recipe is in terms of ingredient choice. This is really my rendition of what’s called a cioccolata calda in Italy. It’s not just some basic hot chocolate. Expect this to be a borderline dessert all on its own. It’s a lusciously thick cup of hot chocolate that clings to your lips like a fine custard.

prep time

5 minutes

cook time

8 minutes

yield

2 servings

1 tsp (3g) cornstarch

1¹/₄ cups (300ml) whole milk

2 tbsp (15g) unsweetened cocoa powder

Small pinch of fine sea salt

2¹/₂ tbsp (30g) sugar

¹/₄ cup (60ml) heavy whipping cream

¹/₂ tsp (3ml) pure vanilla extract

4oz (115g) dark chocolate, finely chopped

Whipped cream, for topping (optional)

Shaved chocolate, for topping (optional)

1 In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and ¹/₄ cup (60ml) milk to create a slurry.

2 In a separate small bowl, whisk together the cocoa powder, fine sea salt, and sugar until combined.

3 In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the heavy whipping cream, vanilla extract, and remaining 1 cup (240ml) milk. Heat until just boiling, and then reduce the heat to medium-low. Whisk in the cocoa powder mixture until dissolved, and then stir in the cornstarch slurry. Cook until the mixture is smooth and begins to thicken.

4 Add the chocolate. Whisk until smooth and homogeneous.

5 Serve immediately in small coffee cups. Top with whipped cream and/or shaved chocolate (if using).

italian hot chocolate

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traditional consommé

Consommé is the perfect way to show your friends and family you’re extra. The whole point of this recipe is maximum clarity of the broth. So if you want something looking clean and majestic like you see in restaurants but also packed full of flavor, this is how you do it.

prep time

25 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

3 hours

yield

1 quart (950ml)

2 chicken carcasses

Vegetable oil, for greasing

1 medium yellow onion, quartered

1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped

2 celery sticks, roughly chopped

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs thyme

2¹/₂ qt (2.4 liters) cold water

3 sprigs tarragon

3 large egg whites

Kosher salt, to taste

1 Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Line a baking sheet with foil.

2 Lightly oil the chicken carcasses with the vegetable oil, and rub to fully coat. Place them on the baking sheet and roast for 30 to 45 minutes or until the carcasses turn a very rich brown.

3 Place the carcasses in a 5- to 6-quart (4.7- to 5.7-liter) stock pot. Add the yellow onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, and thyme. Add the water. (There should be enough water to just cover your ingredients. If not, add more until the water just barely covers everything in the pot.) Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and then immediately reduce the heat to low. Gently simmer for 2 hours and then taste the stock. It should have a nice chicken flavor at this point. If it doesn’t, allow it to reduce a bit more. Turn off the heat, and add the tarragon. Steep for 10 minutes.

4 Strain the stock through a large colander and into a large heatproof bowl. Discard the solids. If there’s more than 1 quart (950ml) of liquid remaining after cooking, clean the pot and add the stock back to the pot. Bring the stock to a boil and reduce for 2 to 3 minutes or until there’s closer to 1 quart (950ml) of liquid remaining. Remove the stock from the heat, and set aside to cool completely. When cool, cover the pot and refrigerate overnight.

5 The next day, skim as much fat off the surface of the stock as you can. If it’s gelatinized, heat the stock until it’s in a liquid state again but not hot. Whisk in the egg whites until thoroughly blended. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium-high heat while constantly whisking. When it comes to a boil, immediately reduce the heat to low and allow to simmer without stirring for 15 minutes or until the egg whites form a crust on the surface.

6 Line a fine-mesh sieve with a piece of very fine cheesecloth. Gently ladle the egg whites into the sieve and then slowly ladle in the rest of the consommé. (Don’t force the liquid through—just allow it to make its way through the cloth.) When it’s fully strained, you should be left with a beautifully clear consommé that’s ready to be used in just about anything or eaten by itself.

7 Return the consommé to a clean pan, and season to taste with kosher salt. Use as is with some lightly blanched vegetables added, use it as a base for the matzoh ball soup recipe, or use it in sauces.

traditional consommé

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fatty

Fatty | CONTENTS

introduction to fatty

hamachi crudo

72-hour short rib

lechon pork belly

grilled pork secreto

chicken thigh ballotine

kate’s lemon chicken

texas smoked brisket

ultimate breakfast sausage

texas toast smashburgers

lamb shawarma

g FATTY g CONTENTS

fat is flavor

Oh man, I might have saved the best for last. This one is constantly fighting against crunchy for the championship title in my mind. The one thing that’s uniquely special about fatty is that a crunchy dish can exist and include a little bit of fattiness, but fattiness can exist without any crunch whatsoever and still be delicious. I’m sure we’ve all heard the famous phrase “fat is flavor.” If you’re at all interested in cooking in any shape or form, or you’re into crawling around a city and eating at some great restaurants—fancy or not—you’ve likely heard the phrase. It’s been debated for ages whether the inclusion of fat is flavor or not. Some might argue that eating a spoonful of lard wouldn’t be a very pleasant experience, but I think that’s a dumbass way to approach the conversation. Eating a spoonful of flour would suck as well, but we all love a great pancake, bread, biscuit, and so on, and the ideal version of those foods only exists with the presence of some form of starchy flour. I don’t want people to look at this section and see it only as something of richness or indulgence. Don’t get me wrong; in most cases, something fatty is going to involve a level of richness that’s almost entirely unavoidable, to a certain extent, due to the nature of fattiness. This is about tying everything together and understanding that this book is about balance. You cannot have yin without yang. You can hit all the right notes in a dish, but at the end of the day, you must have the dark to your light…the fatty to your refreshing and acidic. It’s about using all the knowledge you’ve gained about the nature of each of these textures to reach the overall crescendo of an experience that you intended in a meal. That’s where fatty can make or break it.

INTRODUCE HEAT = IMPROVE TEXTURE = IMPROVE FLAVOR

COLD = UNDESIRABLE TEXTURE = UNDESIRABLE FLAVOR

FLAVOR + FATTINESS + PROTEIN = TEXTURE

g FATTY g CONTENTS

what is fatty?

I’m hoping that at least a little bit of this will come as no shock to you, but I’m going to assume that maybe this is your first foray into even thinking about what fatty is. And for that, I respect and appreciate you for picking up this book. As their name suggests, fatty foods are those that contain high amounts of fat that add depth and richness in a dish. Sometimes this will come in the form of a juicy, melt-in-your-mouth piece of slow-cooked, fatty beef, or a nice tomato salad utterly drenched in the finest olive oil. The fat provides not just a flavor of its own, but it also immensely elevates the flavor of whatever else you’re eating with it. It enhances flavor in a way that’s different than salt, of course. It helps flavor coat your taste buds in a way that other foods simply can’t. It’s the exact reason why creamy is a natural carrier of flavor because the ultimate carrier of flavor, in its purest form, is fat. It’s the unique mouthfeel that creates a level of satisfaction and sometimes indulgence you won’t get from a piece of bread alone. But if you add a thick schmear of salted French butter or a fatty piece of pastrami on top of the bread, well, now you’re in for the full experience that really requires nothing else to make it delicious.

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, the real question is this: what is fat? Look, I’m not gonna get too deep into the nitty-gritty of the science, but in order to acquire a high level of skill in cooking food, it’s nice to have this information in your back pocket. Either to whip it out (the knowledge, I mean) and show it off to family members at Thanksgiving, or to help provide answers to your own questions while you cook at home. But even beyond that, understanding the science will make you better at eating. Yes, it is possible to become more skilled at eating. And frankly, most people suck at eating.

Fat is, of course, a type of lipid composed of triglycerides. It’s a diverse group of organic compounds that are essential to life. Fats are made of chains of fatty acids, and their unique properties stem from the molecular structure and composition of those chains. Obviously, we know two categories of fat: saturated and unsaturated. And it’s important to note that the properties of a fat affects its melting point and stability at high heats (its smoke point). Typically, saturated fats that contain high proportions of—you guessed it, pal—saturated fatty acids have single bonds between carbon atoms in their molecular structure, which allows the fatty acid chains to be packed very closely together. These bonds are called van der Waals forces, which is a wild name to give to something and honestly kind of cool. The reason I bring up these good, old-fashioned van der Waals forces is because they are relatively weak but still strong enough to hold the molecules together at lower temperatures. Well, why the hell does that matter? That rigid structure is what causes those fats to be essentially completely solid at room temperature (think butter, pork fat, and beef fat), whereas liquid fats like olive oil, avocado oil, and sunflower oil contain a higher proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, which include monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. These have one or more double bonds between those carbon atoms. So the presence of the double bonds introduces a “kink” (not the one in the bedroom) in the fatty acid chains. This prevents them from being able to pack closely together like the saturated fats, which leads to a more fluid structure that is usually liquid at room temperature.

The beauty of this information is that almost all natural fats have the ability to become a liquid through the application of heat. Beef fat turns to tallow and pork fat turns to lard when you heat them in a pan over medium heat. The solid chunks of fat melt and essentially attain a liquid state. As the temperature increases, the kinetic energy of the triglyceride molecules also increases. This causes the molecules to vibrate and move more rapidly, which weakens the good ol’ van der Waals forces that are holding the molecules together. When the temperature reaches the fat’s melting point, the molecules have gained enough energy to overcome these attractive forces, allowing them to move more freely and transition from a solid to a liquid state. Now you have something with a melting point that’s closer to 86˚F to 95˚F (30˚C to 35˚C), which means you can use it in the same applications you would a liquid fat, as long as you don’t put it on anything that’s colder than, say, 85˚F to 90˚F (29˚C to 32˚C). The benefit isn’t just enjoying the flavor; now you can apply this completely molecularly different fat to baked goods, sauces, soups, etc. and get completely different textural results. You’ve opened up the full spectrum of types of fat, and now you can influence and enjoy those textures.

g FATTY g CONTENTS

how fat influences food

Heat transfer: This one is obvious but oftentimes taken for granted. Fat is an extremely effective conductor of heat, allowing for even and efficient heat distribution across the surface of any given food. When food is cooked in fat, it facilitates the Maillard reaction, a chemical process that occurs between amino acids and reducing sugars, leading to the formation of new flavor compounds and the characteristic browning of the food. Of course, this depends on how you cook the food, and in particular on the volume of fat you’re cooking in. To put it simply, the choice of searing, sautéing, or deep-frying is going to dramatically change the final product and what kind of browning you’re going to get on something, assuming that getting any sort of browning is even your goal in the first place.

HEAT TRANSFER

Lubrication: Keep your mind out of the gutter here, if you can. This ability to provide lubrication is one of the most important properties of fat to me. It’s not just how it prevents food from sticking to cooking surfaces and reducing friction between food particles, but how it adds lubrication and moisture to the specific food you’re eating. The lack of fat is the reason why a chicken breast can become dry and terrible much more easily than a chicken thigh. Fat makes things juicier, which in turn makes them easier and more pleasant to eat. In baked goods, fat coats the proteins and starches, inhibiting the formation of gluten and yielding a more tender and delicate crumb.

LUBRICATION OF FOOD

Emulsification: Fat can help create stable emulsions, which are mixtures of two immiscible liquids, such as oil and water.

EMULSIFICATION THROUGH MECHANICAL METHOD (WHISKING)

Steaming effect: When a solid fat, such as butter, has a high water content and is used in cooking, it melts and also releases steam as it heats up. This steam helps leaven and create flakiness in pastries, like puff pastry or pie crusts, as the water content in the fat evaporates and generates air pockets within the dough layers. (See? It all comes back to the damned croissant.)

STEAMING BUTTER

Fat saturation: The method of cooking something very slow and low in a large quantity of fat, also called confit, can essentially infuse a food with fat. Infusing something with fat not only changes its texture, but also the way the product interacts to being cooked if you were to cook it a second time after the confit process. As an added benefit, if you were to do this process in a fat that has a lot of flavor, like duck fat, it’s also going to taste damned good.

Long story short, fat isn’t just a texture; it also has the ability to create texture.

Here are some of the ways we enjoy fatty foods:

The freshly rendered fat around a pork chop, steak, or any cut of fresh meat that’s been cooked quickly.

Fully rendered fat from animal sources on the bottom of a plate, which imparts a very rich texture and flavor to a dish.

Pure oil from an external source, like olive oil or vegetable oil, that again adds a richness as well as a certain level of moisture to a dish.

Naturally occurring fats inside of foods like nuts and seeds, or marbling in meats like steak. These fats keep the foods from going dry and add moisture rather than just richness to the eating experience.

Emulsions: this runs back to creamy, which, in a way, provides richness in the same way that fattiness does, but with a more softened approach.

DUCK FAT DRIPPING INTO PAN

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what’s so great about fat?

Listen, here is my digression on why fat is nearly as important as salt. The first and foremost item comes back to lubrication. This isn’t an innuendo or some sort of a joke. I’m not even referring to the element of its usefulness to grease a cake pan or brown your steak nicely in a pan without it sticking. It is actually extremely simple: it comes down to experience. Every single thing I do in my career and life in general is catered toward providing an experience for people. When we go out to eat, I think we can all agree that we want as little regret in our experience as possible. It’s great and all if something tastes decent or is seasoned nicely. Yeah, real great…until you sit down and bite into a piece of meat that is so dry it’s giving the Sahara a run for its money. Experience over. This meal is no longer going to be a relaxing time to enjoy as you talk among friends. It’s going to be mental warfare, full of excruciating thoughts on how you are going to finish everything on your plate. To me, simply understanding fat’s role in providing a pleasant eating experience that makes you want to go back for another bite should influence your decision in what cut of meat you pick, how much butter you use in the pan when toasting bread, and so on. To put it simply, if something has more fat in it, you are less likely to f—k it up and make something that’s dry or inedible, and that is a cornerstone of great cooking made immediately easier (or at least a little less intimidating) by recognizing that. Learn how to cook the item you’re working with before just jumping in and using that bit of knowledge.

Obviously, there is also a threshold of how much fat is too much. Although some people may be able to enjoy a lot of fat at once, there is a general consensus. That’s why I’d advise you start with something that has a naturally occurring amount of fat in it. Try cooking chicken thighs instead of chicken breasts, for example. Thighs are easier to cook, less likely to be dry, juicier, and more flavorful. Get your brain out of the whole white meat vs. dark meat conversation, and just enjoy what is easier to make taste delicious.

Fat is one of those bare-necessities that we literally need to survive. Fat is an incredibly dense source of energy and has essential vitamins that we need in our daily lives to live optimally. It doesn’t take much to get us to a healthy place. It’s also the same reason why we often don’t really like to diet. The hardest thing to remove from a diet isn’t sugar; it’s fat. You might be able to avoid a soda, but man, can’t I just enjoy a nicely dressed salad? I don’t want to eat a dry-ass salad with a light vinaigrette every day. I want that olive oil–drenched Greek salad, or that fatty, salty duck confit over a bed of frisée. Those two things are healthy, but maybe not calorie friendly. And who the f—k cares?! Fat has been demonized for ages with some really spotty science. All I care about is that things taste good. And that’s exactly where the mind of a chef usually resides. So if you’re wondering if it’s true that chefs use a lot of fat in their food, you’re damn right they do. Don’t get skimpy on me with that butter, chef.

How to use fat:

To add richness to a dish that feels lacking in depth.

To add moisture to a naturally drier food, or one that might have been slightly overcooked. Call it a crutch, if you will.

To infuse flavor into foods.

To slow-cook products for high flavor depth and extremely moist results.

To balance the freshness of a meal. Maybe the acidity behind a certain dish could use some fat to tone down the freshness and create a more balanced overall experience.

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hamachi crudo

I keep getting asked for some fancier stuff from my fine-dining background. Here’s something that’s relatively low in the number of ingredients and also simple in its preparation. There’s a certain richness and a fattiness to hamachi, but its flavor is so subtle and lends itself to many palates. (See how I got all culinarian on your ass there?)

prep time

15 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

12 minutes

yield

6–8 servings

Hamachi:

1–2 lb (455–910g) hamachi loin, skinned and deboned

Kosher salt, to taste

1 tbsp (15ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste

Microgreens of choice

Castelvetrano relish:

³/₄ cup (120g) finely chopped Castelvetrano olives

¹/₄ cup (45g) finely chopped toasted pistachios

1 medium green apple, peeled, brunoised (see Note)

3¹/₂ tbsp (53ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Zest and juice of 2 lemons

Kosher salt, to taste

White ponzu:

¹/₂ cup (125ml) mirin

3 tbsp (45ml) rice vinegar

2-in (5cm) piece of kombu

¹/₂ cup (7g) bonito flakes

¹/₂ cup (125ml) white soy sauce

¹/₂ cup (125ml) yuzu juice, or freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 Line a baking sheet with a plain, clean linen towel. Place the hamachi loin on the towel and lightly season the entire surface with kosher salt. Wrap the fish in the towel, place on a plate, and refrigerate overnight.

2 The next day, in a small bowl, make the Castelvetrano relish by combining all the relish ingredients. Mix until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

3 To make the white ponzu, in a medium pot over medium heat, combine the mirin and rice vinegar. Heat until steamy hot but not boiling. Add the kombu and bonito flakes, and adjust the heat to a level that will maintain a steamy heat but doesn’t boil. Heat for 10 minutes.

4 After 10 minutes, strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer and into a medium bowl. Stir in the white soy sauce and yuzu juice or lemon juice. Allow to cool completely. (To cool the mixture faster, you can place the bowl in a large bowl of iced water and stir for about 3 to 5 minutes, or until cold.) Set aside.

5 When the hamachi is ready, cut it into ¹/₂-inch × ¹/₂-inch (1.3cm × 1.3cm) cubes. Just before serving, add the cubes to a large bowl and season to taste with salt, lemon juice, and extra-virgin olive oil. You’ll want it to be just slightly acidic, so don’t add more than about 1 tablespoon (15ml) lemon juice.

6 To serve, place a ring mold in the center of a shallow bowl. Line the outside of the ring mold with the dressed hamachi to create a ring around the mold. Remove the mold and add a couple tablespoons of white ponzu in the center. Add a light drizzle of olive oil over the pool of ponzu. In three random spots on top of the fish, add generous mounds of the Castelvetrano relish. Garnish just the fish with three random mounds of microgreens. Enjoy immediately.

NOTE: A brunoise is essentially a very fine cube cut. This can be somewhat difficult for beginners to execute, so I suggest just cutting the apple into small cubes. To do this, use a mandoline to slice the apple into ¹/₄-inch-thick (0.7cm) slices and then cut across those slices to get ¹/₄-inch-wide (0.7cm) batons. Cut across the batons at ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) intervals, and you should end up with ¹/₄-inch × ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm × 0.7cm) cubes if it’s done correctly. It’s a tedious step but extremely worth the effort.

hamachi crudo

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72-hour short rib

with espresso caramel

This short rib is the epitome of a rich and fancy-tasting dish.

prep time

10 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

72 hours plus 20 minutes

yield

10–12 servings

Rib:

3–4 bone-in short rib plate (6–8 lb [2.8–3.6kg]) (see Note)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Espresso caramel:

1 cup (200g) sugar

3 tbsp (45ml) water

2 tbsp (30ml) espresso or cold brew concentrate

1 tbsp (15ml) soy sauce

5 tbsp (70g) salted butter

³/₄ cup (185ml) heavy whipping cream

1 Preheat a sous vide water bath to 156°F (70°C). Season the short rib plate very generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Place the short rib plate in a vacuum bag and vacuum-seal the bag as tightly as possible. Lower the bag into the sous vide bath, seal the top of the bath with plastic wrap to keep the water from evaporating, and cook for 72 hours.

2 After 72 hours, remove the short rib plate from the sous vide bath. With the meat still in the sous vide bag, place the short rib plate on a baking sheet, top it with another baking sheet, and weigh down the baking sheet with heavy items like tomato sauce cans or a couple cast-iron skillets. Be sure the top sheet is not at an angle. This will help press the meat into a more even and flat shape. Refrigerate overnight.

3 When you’re ready to cook, make the espresso caramel by combining the sugar and water in a small saucepot over medium heat. Bring to a boil without stirring, and cook until the mixture turns an amber color. Whisk in the espresso and soy sauce, followed by the butter. When the butter is fully melted, whisk in the heavy whipping cream and then turn off the heat. Set aside.

4 Remove the short rib plate from the fridge and then remove the plate from the sous vide bag. Use a sharp knife to portion the ribs into whatever serving size you prefer. If you’re using a short rib plate, you can leave the bone in; I like to cut it off and leave them in essentially bar shapes. Just make sure that all portions are the same size. Keep them refrigerated until ready to serve.

5 To cook, preheat a grill to medium-high so that one side is hot and the other side is cold. (There is no need to bring the short ribs up to room temperature. You want them cold when you grill them so they will keep their shape.) Oil the grill grates generously with cooking spray to prevent the ribs from sticking. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper once more.

6 Grill the short ribs for 20 to 30 seconds per side on the hot side of the grill until they’re nicely browned on all sides and the insides are hot. Brush all sides with the espresso caramel while repeatedly turning the short ribs until the glaze is nicely lacquered onto each piece. Serve immediately with whatever sides you prefer.

NOTE: Look, this recipe has quite the wait time, so I would highly recommend making it worth your while with the short rib. If you don’t want to deal with a short rib plate, I’d recommend getting at least 8 to 10 bone-in short ribs so you have plenty of leftovers to keep in the freezer.

72-hour short rib with espresso caramel

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lechon pork belly

This dish has the perfect meshing of my three favorite textures: crunchy on the top, with chewy and fatty equally separated in the middle. It’s why I love pork belly and why I love this recipe.

prep time

20 minutes, plus overnight

cook time

1 hour 10 minutes

yield

6 servings

3–3¹/₂ lb (1.4–1.6kg) skin-on pork belly

4¹/₂ tbsp (70g) kosher salt

1¹/₂ tbsp (15g) whole black peppercorns

6 bay leaves

1 tbsp (15ml) Silver Swan soy sauce

5 garlic cloves, peeled

1¹/₂ qt (1.4 liters) water

2 qt (1.9 liters) vegetable oil, for frying

Toyomansi sauce:

¹/₄ cup (60ml) calamansi juice, or yuzu juice

¹/₄ cup (60ml) soy sauce

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 small red chilis, thinly sliced

1 In a large pot over medium heat, combine the pork belly, 3¹/₂ tablespoons salt, the black peppercorns, bay leaves, soy sauce, garlic, and water. Bring to a boil and cook for 50 minutes or until the pork belly is just fork-tender.

2 While the pork belly is cooking, in a small bowl, make the toyomansi sauce by combining the calamansi juice or yuzu juice, soy sauce, garlic, and red chiles. Stir until incorporated. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.

3 Remove the pork from the pot, and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Pat the skin dry with paper towels and then apply the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt to the skin. Aggressively rub the salt all over the skin. Place the pork belly on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, and refrigerate uncovered overnight.

4 The next day, remove the pork from the fridge and cut it into 1¹/₂-inch-thick (3.8cm) cubes. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).

5 Fill a large heavy-bottomed pot or large wok with the vegetable oil, making sure the oil doesn’t reach any farther than halfway up the sides of the pot or wok. Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C).

6 While the oil is heating, place the pork belly pieces in a large baking pan and place in the preheated oven for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, and, working in batches, place the pieces in the hot oil. Fry the pork belly until it’s golden brown, crisp, and the skin is puffed, about 7 to 10 minutes.

7 Use a spider strainer to transfer the pork cubes to a wire rack to drain. Serve with the toyomansi sauce on the side for dipping.

lechon pork belly

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grilled pork secreto

with salsa verde

Many folks won’t be able to find pork secreto. That’s fine; you can totally use pork chops or really any cut of pork. Just be aware you’ll most likely need to cook those for a longer amount of time. The benefit of secreto is its incredible marbling. It’s quite literally the Wagyu of pork.

prep time

20 minutes

cook time

15 minutes

yield

4–6 servings

2 tsp (6g) ground coriander

¹/₂ tsp (2g) ground cumin

2 tsp (12g) kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 tsp (3g) garlic powder

1¹/₂ lb (680g) pork secreto

Salsa verde:

1¹/₂ lb (680g) tomatillos, husks removed and cut in half lengthwise

1 small white onion, peeled and cut in half

2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil

2 serrano chilis

8 garlic cloves

¹/₂ bunch cilantro

Zest and juice of 1 lime

Kosher salt, to taste

Corn relish:

1 jalapeño

¹/₂ cup (105g) fresh corn kernels

¹/₄ cup (30g) chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

2 tbsp (30ml) olive oil

1 tbsp (15ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

Kosher salt, to taste

1 To begin making the salsa verde, preheat the oven to broil.

2 In a large bowl, combine the tomatillos and white onion. Add the vegetable oil, and toss until the tomatillos and onion are fully coated. Place the tomatillos and onion on a baking sheet lined with foil. Place the baking sheet under the broiler for about 5 to 6 minutes or until the tomatillos and onion are charred and blistered.

3 In a blender, combine the tomatillos, onion, serrano chilis, garlic, cilantro, lime zest, and lime juice. (Deseed the chilis if you want the sauce to be less spicy.) Blend on high until smooth. Season to taste with kosher salt. Set aside.

4 Preheat the grill by heating one side to high and the other side to low. Generously oil the grates on the hot side of the grill with cooking spray.

5 To make the corn relish, grill the jalapeño on the hot side of the grill until it’s charred on all sides. Wipe the char off the jalapeño, slice in half, deseed, and dice. In a medium bowl, combine the diced jalapeño, corn kernels, cilantro, olive oil, and lime juice. Stir to combine. Season to taste with salt. Set aside.

6 In a small bowl, whisk together the coriander, cumin, salt, and garlic powder. Pat the pork secreto dry with paper towels and then season generously with the spice mix. (You might not need all of it.)

7 Place the pork on the hot grates. Grill for 2 minutes and then rotate the pork 45 degrees to create nice crosshatch marks. Grill for 1 to 2 minutes more, and then flip and repeat the process on the other side. Pork secreto can be served medium, and I believe that’s how it’s best, so pull it as soon as it has good color because it can go to medium-well or well-done quite quickly. (By the way, pork secreto is still delicious when cooked well-done because of its high fat content.)

8 Thinly slice the pork secreto and serve topped with a spoonful of salsa verde and a generous scoop of corn relish. Store any remaining salsa verde and corn relish in separate airtight containers in the fridge for up to 1 week.

grilled pork secreto with salsa verde

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chicken thigh ballotine

This is the fancy restaurant way of stuffing chicken. It’s also surprisingly easy. Just please do me a favor and leave the skin on.

prep time

25 minutes

cook time

25 minutes

yield

6 servings

6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

2 tbsp (20g) ground fennel

1 tbsp (10g) freshly ground black pepper, plus more to season

¹/₂ tsp (1g) cayenne

5 garlic cloves, grated

1 tsp (5g) kosher salt, plus more to season

2 tbsp (6g) finely chopped sage

2 tbsp (6g) finely chopped parsley

Vegetable oil, for cooking

3¹/₂ tbsp (50g) unsalted butter

8 sprigs thyme

1 Preheat the oven 400°F (200°C).

2 Place a chicken thigh skin side down on a cutting board. Run a sharp knife (ideally, a boning knife) along the length of the bone. When the bone is exposed, use the back of the knife to scrape the meat away from the bone until it’s mostly freed from the bone. Cut the meat away from the bone completely, keeping the knife in contact with the bone as much as possible. After the bone has been removed, trim away any remaining cartilage that might be sticking to the thigh. Repeat with the remaining chicken thighs.

3 In a small bowl, combine the fennel, black pepper, cayenne, garlic, kosher salt, sage, and parsley. With the undersides of the thighs facing up and the skin sides facing down, fill each of the thighs with the spice mixture. Working one at a time, carefully roll each of the chicken thighs and tie them shut using three evenly spaced pieces of kitchen twine to enclose the mixture inside the thighs, allowing the skin side to face outward. (Tie the twine moderately tightly so the thighs don’t open when cooking.) Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and then season lightly with additional salt and pepper.

4 When you’re ready to cook, add enough vegetable oil to a 12-inch (30.5cm) cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet to coat the bottom of the pan. Heat the oil over medium-high heat.

5 When the oil is hot and nearly smoking, add the chicken thighs to the pan skin side down and evenly spaced apart. Sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until they develop a nice, rich, golden-brown color on both sides.

6 Add the butter and thyme. After the butter has melted, baste all the thighs continuously for about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat, and place the skillet in the preheated oven. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes or until the thighs are cooked through to an internal temperature of 165°F (75°C).

7 Remove the twine, slice, and serve with your desired sides.

chicken thigh ballotine

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kate’s lemon chicken

(garlic and preserved lemon braised chicken)

Okay, so this story goes way back. My wife has asked me to make lemon chicken for a long time. And it’s not that I want to deny her that. It’s just that she specifically wants lemon slices on it. This dish uses the lemon peel and, therefore, I feel this dish could potentially count as satisfying her request. We’ll find out if I’m right depending on if I’m dead or alive by the time you read this.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

1 hour 10 minutes

yield

4 servings

2¹/₂ tbsp (38ml) vegetable oil

4 chicken leg quarters (see Note)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 medium yellow onion, diced

20 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tbsp (10g) smoked paprika

¹/₂ tsp (2g) ground cumin

1 tsp (3g) ground turmeric

³/₄ tsp (1g) saffron threads

1 cup (250ml) dry chardonnay

1 cup (250ml) chicken stock

1 cup (150g) Castelvetrano olives, pitted, plus more for garnish

2 tbsp (30g) finely diced preserved lemon skin

2 bay leaves

2 tbsp (6g) finely chopped parsley

1 In a braising pot or large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil until very hot and shimmering. Pat the chicken leg quarters dry with paper towels and then season generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pot, place the leg quarters in the pot and sear for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until golden brown. Transfer the browned chicken to a tray or large plate.

2 Reduce the heat to medium, and add the yellow onion and garlic. Sauté for 2 to 4 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften, and then add the smoked paprika, cumin, turmeric, and saffron. Cook until the spices are toasted, and then add the chardonnay. Increase the heat to medium-high, and bring the mixture to a boil.

3 Cook until the liquid is reduced by half and then add the chicken stock. Return the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to low and simmer. Add the chicken leg quarters back to the pot skin side up, nestling them into the pot so they’re in a single layer. Add the Castelvetrano olives, preserved lemon skin, and bay leaves. Cover with a lid and continue to simmer for 45 to 60 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through and tender.

4 Use a slotted spatula or tongs to carefully transfer the chicken to a warm platter. If a lot of braising liquid remains in the pot, increase the heat to medium-high and bring the liquid to a boil. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half and lightly thickened. Remove the bay leaves, stir in the parsley, and then season to taste with salt and pepper.

5 Serve over rice with some of the braising liquid spooned over the chicken. Garnish with extra olives and some of the braised garlic cloves.

NOTE: I prefer chicken leg quarters because they come in four nice-and-hearty portions, but you are welcome to use four drumsticks and four thighs if you want to buy them separated or cannot find whole leg quarters at the store.

kate’s lemon chicken

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texas smoked brisket

Smoking a brisket is a big commitment. If you’re prepared to give more of your time to this than you would to your own children, then you’re ready to become an at-home pitmaster with this recipe.

prep time

2 hours, plus overnight

cook time

15 hours

yield

20–24 servings

1 whole (12–15 lb [5.5–6.8kg] packer brisket

¹/₄ cup (60g) kosher salt

¹/₄ cup (35g) freshly ground medium-coarse black pepper

1 Trim the brisket and remove any visible silver skin. Thin the fat cap to about ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) thick. Place the brisket on a baking tray.

2 In a small bowl, whisk together the kosher salt and black pepper. Season the brisket generously on both sides with the mixture, packing it on the brisket by firmly pressing it into each side. Refrigerate the uncovered brisket overnight.

3 Preheat a smoker to 225°F (110°C) using either oak or pecan wood. Remove the brisket from the tray and place the brisket in the smoker so the point (thick end) faces the heat source. Smoke for 8 to 9 hours or until the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (75°C).

4 Carefully transfer the brisket to a very large sheet of pink butcher paper. (Pink butcher paper is used by pitmasters around the United States to properly seal the meat during this stage.) Wrap the brisket so it’s completely and tightly encased in the butcher paper. Place the brisket back in the smoker. (The smoker should still be around 225°F [110°C].) Smoke for 6 to 8 hours more or until the thickest part of the brisket has an internal temperature of 202°F to 205°F (94°C to 96°C).

5 Place the wrapped brisket in a cooler with some warm, lightly damp towels. Close the lid and allow the brisket to rest for 1 to 2 hours more or until you’re ready to slice.

6 Slice the brisket against the grain using a bread knife or a very sharp carving knife and enjoy with whatever barbecue sides you prefer. Just make sure there are pickles and barbecue sauce. (This brisket is good enough to make you forget about the sides.)

texas smoked brisket

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ultimate breakfast sausage

Buying breakfast sausage has always been something that feels kind of funny to me. Why not just take an extra 10 minutes the day before to make your own? If you don’t want to make your own, that’s fine, but don’t tell me you don’t have the time. Just ask yourself this: will you set aside 10 minutes to make some of the best breakfast sausage you’ve ever eaten?

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

10 minutes

yield

12 patties

1 lb (455g) pork belly, skin removed and cut into 1-in (2.5cm) pieces (see Note)

1 lb (455g) boneless Boston butt, cut into pieces (see Note)

1¹/₄ tbsp (15g) dark brown sugar

2¹/₂ tsp (15g) fine sea salt

¹/₂ tsp (2g) MSG (optional)

1¹/₂ tsp (5g) finely ground black pepper

¹/₂ tsp (1g) cayenne

2 tsp (12g) ground fennel

¹/₄ tsp (1g) ground allspice

2 tsp (7g) garlic powder

1¹/₂ tbsp (6g) finely chopped sage

1 Use a meat grinder to grind the pork belly and Boston butt through a fine die until completely ground. (Run them through the meat grinder a second time if you want your grind finer and less meaty.)

2 In a large bowl, combine the ground pork and all the remaining ingredients. Knead the ingredients together until they’re homogeneous and emulsified. At this point, you can either roll the pork mixture into a cylindrical shape in plastic wrap and freeze it; cover it and refrigerate it overnight; or use it right away.

3 When you’re ready to cook, slice the meat mixture into 12 evenly sized disks and then flatten each disk into a patty. To cook, coat a 10- to 12-inch (25cm to 30.5cm) skillet with cooking spray and preheat over medium-high heat. Sear the patties in single-layer batches for 3 to 4 minutes per side or until the insides are just cooked through and reach an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).

4 Serve with whatever breakfast sides you prefer.

NOTE: If you don’t have a meat grinder, you can just buy 2 pounds (910g) of the fattiest ground pork you can find. Avoid any lean stuff because it’s the bane of the existence of great breakfast sausage. Nobody wants a dry, crumbly ass breakfast sausage that has the texture of overcooked falafel. We want fatty—we want juicy.

ultimate breakfast sausage

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texas toast smashburgers

This is significantly better than a fast-food place that resides in Texas that shall not be named. You know who you are.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

13 minutes

yield

4 smashburgers

1.5–2 lb (675–900g) ground beef (no leaner than 75%)

1 medium white onion, very thinly sliced (see Note)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

8 slices American or cheddar cheese

Texas toast:

¹/₂ cup (112g) salted butter, softened

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tbsp (9g) finely chopped parsley

1 medium loaf white bread, cut into 8³/₄-in-thick (1.9cm) slices

Burger sauce:

¹/₂ cup (115g) mayonnaise

2 tbsp (75g) Dijon mustard

2¹/₂ tsp (12g) sugar

2 tbsp (30ml) Valentina hot sauce

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 To begin making the Texas toast, preheat a grill pan or a grill to medium heat.

2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the butter, garlic, and parsley. Spread the garlic butter over both sides of each slice of white bread. Grill the bread slices for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until nicely toasted. (Alternatively, place the bread slices on a baking sheet and broil each side for about 3 minutes or until toasted and crisp.) Set aside.

3 To make the burger sauce, in a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, sugar, and hot sauce. Stir until combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

4 Divide the beef into 8 evenly sized pieces, about 2¹/₂ to 3 ounces (71g–85g) each. Form each piece into a ball.

5 Generously sauce one side of two slices of toast.

6 Generously coat a 12-inch (30.5cm) cast-iron skillet with cooking spray and preheat over medium-high heat. Place 2 beef balls in the hot skillet, leaving at least 3 inches (7.6cm) between the balls. Top a ball with a small mound of white onion and then smash the ball with a flat spatula or a burger press until it’s slightly less than ¹/₄-inch (0.7cm) thick. Season the patty with salt and pepper, and sear for 45 seconds. Flip the patty and season again with salt and pepper. Top with a slice of American or cheddar cheese and let it melt. When the cheese is melted, the patty is cooked.

7 Remove it from the pan and place it on the toasted and sauced bottom piece of toast. Repeat the process with the other patty and then top the first patty with the second. (This works best when done on a large griddle so you can cook patties for multiple burgers simultaneously.) Top the patties with the sauced side of the second slice of toast. Repeat with all the remaining patties and toast. Enjoy immediately.

NOTE: The onion needs to be sliced extremely thin—like ¹/₈ inch (4mm)—to really get the full effect of this burger. My suggestion would be to use a mandoline to slice the onion and achieve thin and even slices.

texas toast smashburgers

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lamb shawarma

Of course, you don’t need to do this on a shawarma spindle at home. You can easily skewer multiple slices of meat and grill them on low, with the grill covered and the meat rotating often. The element of great shawarma is the tiny layers being ever-so-thinly shaved right off, hot, fresh, and juicing into a warm pita. That’s why we love a nice shawarma.

prep time

10 minutes

cook time

30 minutes

yield

4 servings

1 tsp (2g) dried oregano

1 tbsp (10g) ground cumin

2 tsp (6g) paprika

¹/₂ tsp (1g) cayenne

5 garlic cloves, very finely minced

1¹/₂ tbsp (22g) kosher salt

¹/₃ cup (80ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1¹/₂–2 lb (680–910g) lamb shoulder, sliced ¹/₃-in (8mm) thick

4 pitas, warmed

¹/₂ head iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

Garlic sauce:

¹/₂ cup (115g) mayonnaise

1 tbsp (3g) finely chopped dill

2 garlic cloves, grated

2 tsp (10ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 In a small bowl, combine the oregano, cumin, paprika, cayenne, garlic, kosher salt, and extra-virgin olive oil. Mix until thoroughly combined. Place the sliced lamb shoulder in a large bowl, and sprinkle the spice mixture over the top. Rub the spice mixture into the meat until every slice is evenly coated.

2 Use 2 to 3 strong metal skewers to skewer the individual slices of meat, stacking them on top of one another, until you have long skewers of sliced meat. You’ll want to make sure the skewers are lined up in a way that the meat ends up as one long rod of stacked meat.

3 Preheat the grill so one side is medium high and the other side is low. Coat the grill grates with cooking spray.

4 Place the skewers on the medium-high side of the grill. Sear for 3 minutes on each side or until nicely colored, and then transfer the skewers to the low-heat side of the grill. Close the lid and cook the skewers for 30 to 45 minutes or until the meat is cooked through, turning occasionally.

5 While the meat is cooking, in a medium bowl, make the garlic sauce by combining the mayonnaise, dill, garlic, and lemon juice. Whisk until combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6 When you’re ready to serve, transfer the shawarma to the pitas. Top with lettuce, sliced tomatoes, and a dollop of the garlic sauce.

lamb shawarma

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acknowledgments

To my wife, Kate: Thank you for always being there to listen to my ramblings and letting me bounce endless ideas off of you. More specifically, thanks for listening to me talk endlessly about this book and for always offering good advice when I wasn’t sure how I wanted to approach things. Above all, thank you for the crispy edges of your croissant. I love you, buddy.

Vicram Chatterjee: For your relentless attack on our goals. For keeping things on track while we undergo major changes…while doing this book…and of course for the incredible photos. You’re a juggernaut, and everyone knows it.

The culinary team (Angela Majko, Cameron Gaab, Samantha Manansala, Dan Castro): Again, thank you guys for everything you put into making the book shoot possible. Not to mention helping me keep consistency across all these recipes considering how damned busy everything was when we made this book! Angela and Cameron, thank you specifically for rallying harder than anyone I have ever met to help me keep things rolling as much as possible while I focused on finishing this book. You guys have been nothing but good to me, and I can’t tell you how grateful I am for it. Or well I guess I can…I am right now. Love ya both, your culinary power is eternally appreciated.

My managers, Josh and Brian: For always being my guardian angels. I appreciate and notice all the things you guys do for me and am unbelievably grateful for it. I see you both far more as good friends than as business partners. Thank you for your exceptional teachings and incomparable work ethics. Now that the book is done, it’s time to spend more time getting together!

My book team (Brook Farling, Alexander Rigby, Rebecca Batchelor): This was a serious crunch of a book with what little time we had to button it all up. You guys are total rock stars, and I couldn’t be more thankful to be in your hands to make this all happen! The book is beautiful, and it was you guys who really helped corral it into the place it needed to be. Thank you for trusting me, and for getting the book across the finish line.

Brandi Bowles of UTA: Thank you for really championing me and believing in my work throughout this process! You really gave me the extra confidence I needed to believe in my work and in the world of book writing specifically. Thank you, and I suppose onto the next, aye?

The UTA Queens (Ali Berman, Mahzad Babayan, Kirvy Van Erkel): Some of my biggest confidence-boosters with my last book and also this book. All the supportive texts throughout the launch of the last one are part of what made me say yes to a second one! But more importantly, you all are incredible businesswomen who’ve helped me build such a repertoire of knowledge in entertainment, and that knowledge cascades down into everything I do now. Thank you all so, so much.

Ian Purkayastha of Regalis Foods: I really appreciate you getting us so many incredible and rare products for this book. You’re a great friend and teammate in business!

A huge thank you to the culinary team that made this book so easy to photograph. Tons of planning and extreme levels of prep were handled beautifully.

…oh, and thanks to Sully, the studio dog.

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about the author

Joshua Weissman has been obsessed with food from an early age. When other kids were asking for video games for their birthdays, he was asking for whole animals to butcher and prepare. Joshua began cooking professionally at age 19 and has worked at some of the top fine-dining restaurants in the United States. With his uncompromising, over-the-top approach to food, he entertains and instructs more than 20 million fans across his online platforms. He’s the author of the #1 New York Times-bestselling cookbook Joshua Weissman: An Unapologetic Cookbook. Joshua lives in Austin, Texas, where he can usually be found working at his studio or at home cooking for his wife.

Publisher Mike Sanders

Editorial Director Ann Barton

Senior Editors Brook Farling, Alexander Rigby

Art & Design Director William Thomas

Assistant Director of Art & Design Rebecca Batchelor

Copy Editor Christopher Stolle

Art Director for Photography & Illustrations Joshua Weissman

Photography Ralph Smith Studios

Supplemental Photography Vicram Chatterjee

Illustrator Priscilla Witte

Recipe Tester Ashley Brooks

Proofreader Bianca Bosman

Indexer Brad Herriman

DIGITAL PRODUCTION

Digital Programme Manager Miguel Cunha

Senior Manager Lakshmi Rao

Senior Producer Suruchi Kakkar

Producer Rahul Kumar

Senior Software Engineer Rachana Kishore

Production Manager Nain Singh Rawat

Production Coordinator Manish Bhatt

First American Edition, 2023

Published in the United States by DK Publishing 1745 Broadway, 20th Floor, New York, NY 10019 DK, a Division of Penguin Random House LLC

The authorized representative in the EEA is Dorling Kindersley Verlag GmbH. Arnulfstr. 124, 80636 Munich, Germany

Copyright © 2023 by Joshua Weissman
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All rights reserved.

Without limiting the rights under the copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

Library of Congress Number: 2023932674

ISBN: 9780744063509

This digital edition is published in 2023

eISBN: 9780744063561

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