1. Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system test mode A.

1. Remove the driver's door switch trim.

1. Disconnect the 23P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
   NOTE: LHD type is shown, RHD type is similar.

1. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
   - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
   - If the terminals look OK, go to Step 5 .

1. With the power window master switch still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, go to Step 6 .

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
   3 | WHT/GRN | Under all conditions | Connect terminal No. 3 to ground. Check for voltage at under-dash fuse/relay box No. 26 (20 A) fuse: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 23 (P/W) (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
   - Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power window relay
   - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   10 | GRN/WHT | Under all conditions | Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 23 (P/W) (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
   - Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   20 | YEL | Ignition switch ON (II) | Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   15 * | WHT/RED | Under all conditions | Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 7 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   1 | BLK | Under all conditions | Check for continuity to ground: There should be battery continuity. |
   - Poor ground (G501, G601)
   - An open in the wire
   11 | RED/YEL | Connect the No. 10 and No. 11 terminals with a jumper wire, and No. 23 terminal to body ground. | Check the driver's window motor operation: The window should go down. |
   - Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty driver's power window motor
   - An open in the wire
   23 | RED/BLK | Connect the No. 10 and No. 23 terminals with a jumper wire, and No. 11 terminal to body ground. | Check for driver's window motor operation: The window should go up.

   *: | '05 model

1. Connect the No. 3 (WHT/GRN) terminal to body ground with a jumper wire.

1. With the power window master switch still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, go to Step 8 .

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
   18 | BLU/RED | Connect the No. 10 and No. 18 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go up. |
   - Poor ground (G503)
   - Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty front passenger's power window switch
   - Faulty front passenger's power window motor
   - An open in the wire
   9 | BLU/WHT | Connect the No. 10 and No. 9 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go down.
   13 | BRN/WHT | Connect the No. 10 and No. 13 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go up. |
   - Poor ground (G601 [G602])
   - Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty left rear power window switch
   - Faulty left rear power window motor
   - An open in the wire
   19 | BRN | Connect the No. 10 and No. 19 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go down.
   12 | BLU/ORN | Connect the No. 10 and No. 12 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go up. |
   - Poor ground (G602 [G601])
   - Blown No. 25 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty right rear power window switch
   - Faulty right rear power window motor
   - An open in the wire
   14 | BRN/YEL | Connect the No. 10 and No. 14 terminals with a jumper wire. | Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go down.

1. Reconnect the 23P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
   6 | RED/WHT | Ignition switch ON (II) | Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Faulty power window master switch
   - Short to ground in the wire
   2 | BLK | Under all conditions | Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. |
   - Faulty power window master switch
   4 | BLU | Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN | Check for voltage between the No. 4 and No. 2 terminals: There should be 0 V−about 5 V−0 V−about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). |
   - Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - Faulty power window master switch
   - Short to ground in the wire
   - Faulty driver's window motor
   17 | ORN | Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN | Check for voltage between the No. 17 and No. 2 terminals: There should be 0 V−about 5 V−0 V−about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
   21 *2 | WHT | Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less. |
   - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
   - Poor ground (G501 [G601])
   - An open in the wire
   Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. |
   - Short to ground
   - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
   Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more.
   8 *1 | WHT/RED | Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less. |
   - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
   - Poor ground (G501 [G601])
   - An open in the wire
   Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. |
   - Short to ground
   - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
   Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK | Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more.

   *1: With security alarm system
   *2: Without ultrasonic system (KE model)
   [ ]: RHD type