Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test

1. Remove the driver's door switch panel.

1. Disconnect the 23P connector from the power window master switch.

1. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
   - If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
   - If the terminals look OK, go to Step 4 .

1. With the door multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
   - If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
   - If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the power window master switch.

   Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if result is not obtained
   --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
   1 | BLK | Under all conditions | Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. |
   - Poor ground (G601)
   - An open in the wire
   10 | GRN/WHT | Under all conditions | Check for voltage to ground:There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   20 | YEL | Ignition switch ON (II) | Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. |
   - Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
   - An open in the wire
   16 | BRN/RED | Under all conditions | Check for continuity between terminal No. 16 and the under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) terminal No. 4: There should be continuity. | An open in the wire
   Under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) disconnected | Check for continuity to ground: There should be no continuity. | Short to ground