Headlight Adjuster Leveling Motor Input Test

With HID Lamp NOTE: Before testing, check for:

- A blown No. 20 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- Bent, loose, or corroded terminals.

1. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the each headlight leveling motor (B).

1. Check for continuity between the No. 3 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
   - If there is no continuity, check for:

   - | an open in the GRN/WHT wire, or
   - | a faulty headlights adjuster control unit.

   - If there is continuity, go to Step 3 .

1. Check for voltage between the No. 1 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage.
   - If there is no battery voltage, check for:

   - | an open in the YEL/GRN wire, or
   - | a faulty headlights adjuster control unit.

   - If there is battery voltage, go to Step 4 .

1. Check for voltage between the No. 2 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON (II) and headlight switch ON. There should be between approximately 2 V and battery voltage.
   - If the voltage is not as specified, check for:

   - | an open in the BLU/BLK wire, or
   - | a faulty headlights adjuster control unit.

   - If the voltage is as specified, go to Step 5 .

1. If all tests are normal, but the headlight leveling motor does not work, check for frozen, stuck or improperly installed headlight leveling motor. If the mechanical check is OK, replace the headlight leveling motor and housing assembly.

1. After installing, recheck the system.